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Mount Worklight Directly To Fender TC33D

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StephenR
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 230 New Tripoli, Pa.
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2003-11-07          68192


Trucklite makes a (2)-55watt bulb worklight that I was wondering if I could mount directly to the fender? It has a 4 hole mounting base. I was going to either put 2 pieces of metal or 4 large washers on the bottom, and a foam gasket on the top.

The pre-wired connector in the back runs off the headlight and taillight circuit which is fused for 20amps, the 110 watt worklight will be to much for the circuit. Can I put a 25amp fuse in it's place or will I need to run it on another circuit?




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blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 282 Central Maine
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2003-11-07          68194


You might find post #67600 helpful (and the whole thread has good info on lights) see my recent pics for ROPS mounted example.
bliz
....


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StephenR
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2003-11-07          68196


How do you search a post number? ....


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blizzard
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2003-11-07          68199


Oops! Sorry about that- StephenR, Evidently you can't look up message numbers.
Look in Forums, Kubota Owning/Buying.
Scroll down and click Re:Work Light for L3130
or in the Search box at the top of page, search for ' Work Light for L3130 '
in the Subject box.
Hope this helps, bliz ....


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blizzard
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2003-11-07          68201


StephenR,
Does the work light have a switch on it? If not you may not be 'street legal'. 110 Watts is almost 10 Amps at battery voltage, which is probably more than all your factory lights combined. I'd recommend using an automotive relay mounted close to the battery. You can power the relay from the light circuit. Put the switch in the relay feed. Use 10 or 12 Gauge wire for the power leads. 110Watts is a LOT of light!

As long as you don't block your tail/signal/emergency lights, mounting on the rear fender should be fine. You might want to temporarily power up the light before mounting to see how the coverage is.

Good luck with your project,
bliz ....


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StephenR
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 230 New Tripoli, Pa.
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2003-11-07          68203


The light does have a switch on it and will not block the flasher. I'm wondering if I can just replace the 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp. I was thinking of switching the ground wire off of the factory connector to run another +VCC line, and grounding the light right to the ROPs.

I'm more concerned about mounting the light directly on the fiberglass fender. I didn't really thing about fabricating something for the ROPs, which is a good idea if I can still fold it. New Holland makes a bracket for the ROPs which costs $20 and I would have to find out if this specific light will fit. ....


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blizzard
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2003-11-07          68207


StephenR,
I didn't realise the fenders are fiberglass. I would be careful with the weight and size of the light. But it does seem to have a nice large base, so you are probably O.K.
I'm just guessing, but my experience has been that the rear wiring is not sized for really heavy amperage. My factory rear worklight wiring (Kubota 3130) was fused 7.5A, or about 90W max, and the wire was sized for that draw. Do you have a fuse for a rear worklight circuit? I believe my factory setup for work lights is 2 35W units. Perhaps you can find out what your model's dealer options are, and that should give you the info as to how much you can safely draw.
I wouldn't just replace the fuse, because if the wire(s) are marginal for the current, they may not fail until later (hot weather, emergency flashers on, a little corrosion in the connectors). Manufacturers RARELY use larger wire than necessary.

To me 2 55W halogen bulbs seems overkill for the rear. I wound up adding accesory lights (2 55W compact fog type) to the front, as after backing up vision to the front was pretty poor. The factory front lights on my tractor are (2) 25W incandescent, added rear work light (1) 55W halogen.

Hope this helps a little,
bliz ....


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StephenR
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Posts: 230 New Tripoli, Pa.
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2003-11-07          68210


This is really turning out to be a major pain. You're probably right about the 110 watts being overkill. I'm going to go to the dealer tomorrow to see what they have. Thanks. ....


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drcjv.
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 334 southeastern pa
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2003-11-07          68233


Stephen the factory light and bracket work great and install in about 15 minutes. ....


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melensdad
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-07          68245


I installed the NH factory rear aux light. It mounts to a bracket using the base of the ROPS, it taps into the factory wires, the whole install took 5 minutes, cost $35 and works great. ....


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blizzard
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2003-11-08          68250


drcjv. and melensdad,
Just curious, can you tell me the wattage of the factory light?
Thanks in advance,
bliz ....


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drcjv.
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2003-11-08          68262


I am not sure of the wattage but, the light is plenty bright. ....


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melensdad
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-08          68298


Ditto on it being plenty bright, brighter than the headlights and with a nice spread pattern too.

Also, 2 55 Watt automotive lights might draw down your battery faster than your alternator can recharge it. Not a big problem unless you do a lot of work with the lights on, in that case, you'd have long term problems with your battery & alternator. ....


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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-11-09          68311


A 10A circuit manages my 2 55W lights (front and rear) OK. Should be no problem with a 20A circuit. My alternator is rated for 35A output, although many tractors have 25A alternators.

Two 55W lights might extend the recharge time at bit and heavy loads will shorten alternator life but most alternators should manage the load plus a fair bit for recharge. If a bunch of short runs were done, a trickle charger would top up the battery if it wasn't fully charged.

Still there's the question of why two 55w lights. You might look at the pattern of the unit. You want enough light on the ground to see what you're doing close to the tractor and to see what's coming far enough ahead. Tractors don't have the ground speed of cars (that also use two 55W lights but don't need much light on the ground or to the side). The unit might be interesting if one light gave a wide work light pattern and the other a narrower pattern for driving. I don't have to work much at night so mine are wide work light patterns. A single unit on one fender isn't going to out much light on the other side of the engine if nighttime tinkering is needed.


....


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melensdad
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Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-10          68365


Because of exactly what you describe, I chose PIAA 35 watt automotive FOG lamps, they throw a wide even beam of bright light but they do not project it beyone a useful distance. I also picked YELLOW to cut down on the swarm of bugs attracted to the lights in the summer. ....


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StephenR
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2003-11-10          68392


Ok guys, here is what I found out. After I bought the bracket and light from the NH dealer, I also needed a manual. Well what the service tech told me over the phone and what the manual says are two different things. The service tech said the work light was on the same circuit as the headlights and tail lights.
As per the service tech; (4) headlights 37.5 watts = 150watts, (4) taillights 10watts = 40 watts, (1) 50watt worklight. Total watts= 240. Watts/Volts=Amps. Thus 240/12=20amps. I thought this was way to close considering the circuit has a 20 amp fuse. First clue. The tech also mentioned that some guys put 2 lights out back. Second clue.
I'm reading the manual as a bedtime story last night and lo and behold, the worklight is on a seperate circuit along with the cruise control which is fused for 15amps!.
So if this 110 watt flame thrower fits the bracket, I'm taking the 50watt nightlight back to the dealer ;^).
If anyone is interested, it's a new item by Trucklite #80474.
....


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melensdad
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Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-10          68393


The more you overtax your systems the greater the likelyhood of wearing things out too early or too often, namely the alternator and the battery. You don't have a V-8 under the hood with a 100amp alternator and a high capacity deep cycle battery. JMHO. ....


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StephenR
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2003-11-10          68396


It should be ok, it has a 40amp alternator. ....


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melensdad
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Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-10          68397


I'd rather throw a wide pattern of light so I can see where I am working rather than a bright spot. I have the Aux light, and two rear facing wide beam fog lamps on the ROPS and it lights the whole area. Multiple points of light reduce shadows from the rear implement over your entire work area. ....


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StephenR
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2003-11-10          68398


Hmmm. That's a good point. Thanks. ....


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melensdad
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-10          68399


I like to see what is NEAR me as well as my work area. Multiple lights eliminates the black shadow cast by an implement that is brightly lit with a brite white lite. Plus, the wide angle fog lamps also light all around the rear of the tractor so I don't hit other things/people. I use high quality lights with even beam spreads to eliminate hot spots in the light patterns. ....


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StephenR
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2003-11-11          68469


melensdad,
I took your advice and I'm going to go with the 50 watt light. In the dark garage it had plenty of illumination. And I have extra power if I want to add other lights. Thanks. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-11-11          68483


I was talking to some of the boys at the shop today at the remeberance day ceremony.

They said they were experimenting with some low current-draw lighting on the new tractors.

The new units are 'cab models' and the electrical system is nearly maxed out with the extra load of heating/AC blowers, wipers, factory lighting, etc., so adding much more light is difficult.

The solution they came up with was to use the new LED lights available for automotive use. The 4" round and the 6" oblong units are now available in white with a single or dual brightness level, sort of the equivalent of 1156 or 1157 type bulbs. They are very bright and draw barely no power at all. They mount in a rubber boot and there are free-standing brackets available if you don't want to 'build them in'.

You're not going to blind anybody with them, but two of them on the back of the cab will allow you to see whats behind you to back up. In tests in the shop they say two of them will light up the back wall, 50' away clearly.

Best of luck. ....


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StephenR
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2003-11-11          68487


Murf,
LED technology has come along way. It still has a way to go with price and brightness but it's going in the right direction. It's going to be a major breakthru when it becomes cost effective for farm, home and automotive applications.
LEDs use so little power because they are a solid-state device. Very little heat is generated, all power goes to creating light. ....


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melensdad
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Posts: 90 Northwest Indiana, near Lowell and 8 miles from Beecher, Illinois
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2003-11-13          68671


I've got 2 LED flashlights and they amaze me (an easy thing to do). They throw a very bright very white light and the batteries last for a year of DAILY use! But they do NOT throw a long beam, they light up an engine compartment or a room well, but you won't see to far into the woods or down the road. ....


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Blueman
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Posts: 243 Washington, PA
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2003-11-13          68675


I'm coming into this post late...but I need to mount a rear worklight on my TC45D, but I fold my ROPS often...where would be the best place to mount one? ....


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melensdad
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2003-11-13          68681


I used the factory light and the factory bracket on my TC24, it puts the light at the base of the ROPS and folding is not a problem because the top of the bar clears the light. The light and the bracket together cost me about $35. ....


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Blueman
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2004-01-12          73784


OK, I finally bought the rear work light from NH; it was about $28, but they wanted over $50 for the bracket! Those of you who bought your worklight from NH, did it come with the bracket, or did you fabricate one? ....


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Blueman
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2004-01-12          73786


I just called Corriher, and they told me $55 for the bracket, so I guess my local dealer wasn't lying...seems pretty high for something like a bracket...any suggestions from you Blue guys? ....


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StephenR
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2004-01-12          73787


I finally went and bought the light and bracket from NH and it works great. The bracket was $22. I have a TC33D but I can't imagine them being that much different. Try shopping it online. ....


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