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JDFAN I can not believe your dealer or prospective dealer. Is this dealer a regular farm equipment dealer or one of the new compacts only? Regular farm equipment dealers, in my opnion, are much more customer & service oriented. (Of course they deal mostly with farmers and not YUPPIES). However that said; they still have a siginificant income from the compact market and they know it. I have a 2 year old 4400 with over 500 hours on it JD has came and picked it up 3 times for different PIPs and to install the 48 backhoe, no charge. They have addressed every issuse even if it sounded like I was whinning. The service manager has me come right in and go through HIS JD web site with ALL of the avaiable information, including avaiable PIPs, about my compact. The backhoe has adjustments for the RSA mount and a GOOD technician would have it correct. On mine the lever has to be "tweaked" a little on my end (push down a little while pulling back to get the full stroke).You should not have any hyd leaks. If you have quick connects popping off, I would be REAL concerned: #1 did I hook them up right? #2 wrong styles of connectors? #3 is the line/fitting going to pop with my face near it or my foot under the unit? Sounds like their/your service dept has a bunch of minimum wage know nothings. FIND ANOTHER DEALER Green, Orange or the new Purple color (red & blue).

Should I give Deere one more try of buy Kubota
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by harvey

Morning PeterH: My thoughts: Look under the stick cover, there are some ball joints that may need just a small squirk of pentrating oil to loosen them up. It sounds like they free up after you use them some. (You might wanna check your shift linkages also, mine seem to get or stay stiff also usually dust). It is possible for some environmental things to get to them, dust, mud, rain or even leaves. The dumping hesatation is normal, the dump circuit has a two stage valve just a little to the right and it will dump nice and slow all the way down and all the way to the right is a fast circuit. The hesatation is a point just in between them where the load probably does what Tom said, if you start all the way the the rigth it will not or should not hesitate. It will take some getting used to. I still manage to get some hesatitation. I have moved tons of stuff here, (I haul in stone and fill by the tractor trailer load when I need it).

Sticky Hydraulics
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by harvey

Morning JD will come down from the prices that are published fairly well. 15-20% ??? Different dealers can be more flexible. 43 vs 44 I do not think it is a HP issue as much as it is size of tires and what you need or want. I went with the best flotation and bigger foot print. If you are thinking you need to jump soon JD has a 5.5% through JD finance now. Get all you can get because it only applies to tractor and implements you buy at the same time.
Harvey

4310 4410 Price and Decision
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by harvey

Dave How much sanding are you planning to do? If you have a big drive or a big lot it may be much more feasible to build one if you have the means. An old car axle with a spreader plate and a hopper above with a adjustable gate. You can build 3 pt or with a draw bar. The tires drive the plate.

Sand speaders
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by harvey

Tim, if you already have a lawn roller buy a 3pt boom. Put a couple of shackles on each side and pick with the boom. The the 3pt roller would have to get picked each time you turn or it will scuff. PLUS when you need good solid lifting you can not beat a 3pt boom.

3 Point lawn roller
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by harvey

Elkoboy: There are lots of really cheap gearboxes around. Check in a auto wrecking yard for an olde straight thru 4 speed trany. Use it backwards to gear up to the PTO/gen speed you need. Every thing is already yoked or splined. If rotation is wrong for your gen turn it around and put beside it... HAVE FUN!

Building a PTO Generator - Questions
Shop Tools
Replies 13 Post by harvey

Well I'l do the limb trick. When you use the dump circuit, lever to the right? It has a regular circuit and a fast circuit. If you move the lever a little to the right it will slow dump and move it ALL the way to the right it will fast dump. The inbetween is the weird ground sometimes the bucket will hang, stick not move then all of a sudden it will. Hopefully this helps.

Sticky FEL and snow blower advice
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by harvey

Custom make tarps can usually be obtained thru a canvas/sail maker. Boat areas usually have a couple of these guys in the yellow pages or stop at the marina. THEY CAN GET PRICEY!

Winter storage under cover
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by harvey

CPT you do not have to reverse them. Just move them to the opposite side, w/o turning them around. Works for ags. Me thinks turfs no problem either way you do it. I can not believe 700# per tire, maybe both. You would have to have almost 500# of fluid per tire, not splitting hairs 10# per gal I KNOW Water only 8.62 and calcium correctly mixed is over 10 lbs BLAB, BLAB, BLAB! It would be fifty gallons per tire - I do not think so unless you have special tires.

JD850 reversing loaded turf tires
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by harvey

Todd that 4020 will move lots of dirt. The problem it is it's a 100hp tractor with weight enough to to bust the bucket and arms. The loaders were designed mainly for farm chores. Me thinks you can find a 30-70 hp for same money if you are only intrested in a grunt tractor. Cost to operate and maintain is/should be a consideration. Oil change for 4020? Batteries? Trans and Hyd? Check the capasities. I'd like and old 3020 or 4020 for playing and investment, check what a restored one is going for. Buy the 4020 and take care of it and 10 years down the road you'll get all of your money back. I just got a 1944 Farmall M, my winter project. I like the old tractors. But the new ones do things sooo much easier and cost lots less to operate. I could not afford to mow my lawn with the M. My little baby JD4400 is CHEAP to operate.

JD4020
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by harvey

Roy I use an "OLD" JD b (I think) 6ft cut. It/I converted it for 3pt. I only use it a couple of times a year to trim under the low branch pines. Unless you have a special purpose in mind sickle bars are a pain to maintain, ask any old farmer who used them to trim pastures. I sometimes also trim the ditch banks and along the road also. Knives get loose, re riviting, guards get bent. Knives break. As Art mentioned the 5-6 ft belt drive would probably be the way to go, but the loose knives and guards are a fact of life. However as I said I only use that old $25.00 converted mower a couple of times a year and use lots of TLC and old motor oil (I can hear tree huggers whine now) on the cutting bar for storage and while cutting dry grass.

Sickle Bar for JD 670
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 5 Post by harvey

Yup they will just like bi-focals. I find in the winter sometimes I get a little sore. I guess a couple of aching muscles is a lot better than a lot of them with sweat. Enjoy!

A pain in the neck
New Holland Tractors
Replies 8 Post by harvey

Tom a lot depends on the soil you are in. I think I remember you saying you had sandy stuff. You could get away with the harder bolt as a temp fix. Our soil here produces BFR's I shear my fair share of bolts. I buy them by the pound at tractor supply. I twisted the auger shaft holes pretty bad with a harder shear bolt. Got the job done and spent spare time repairing auger welding and reinforcing. When you feel the auger ticking a BFR it is simpler to pull out and use a bar to pry out rock. My other headache is roots. We bury our animals by the big shade trees. Roots are tough on shear bolts, but it is not a shock load like a rock. A big pipe wrench is usually required to back the auger out of mucky ground. You will find the right combination of rpm and finesse of the 3pt lever will lessen the problems. GOOD LUCK!

Bolt Grades
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by harvey

HillyBilly I'm up to it. Just brought home my new used very little, only by a little ole farmer raking hay...., 1944 Farmall M, just had to get it into woods. I like it there a lot, but I guess I gotta get that outha my system quick. Not the place for my polish and parade tractor. Little 4400 does ok (just gotta take smaller bites) but nothing except more weight and HP sounds better than an old M with a load, well maybe an old JD popper at load pulling hard... When (IF) the 4400 needs a rescue in the woods I'll use it. Tis the season to cut wood ENJOY the sweat. Maybe some exercise nuts will find you and pay you to let them help you. So they can sweat too. Seems like nothing is too far fetched anymore...

Finally got some real tires and wheels for my JD4400
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by harvey

Tire cages were built for the old 2 piece "split rims" which had a a tendency to come apart at pressure. Imagine a 20" 3# steel ring flying thru the air as if shot from a cannon. I have seen 8X8 hard wood posts cut almost in two by them. In Viet Nam I saw what was left of a Pappa San tire repair man. He was cut in 3 pieces. Many tire guys have been maimed and killed by them. Modern truck tires do not require the cage. A catastrophic failure of a tire in the application you describe is gonna require a "GOOD" Got it? "GOOD set of ear plugs! Hopefully you have a air regulator for correct pressure and a clip on and leave it air chuck. With that thought where would your arm be in a tire cage with either type of tire????

Tire mounting removal
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by harvey

This is a good discussion. So far, I think, most have it right in regards to application of tires. However My $.02 worth is: soil, lawn or pavement contact. On farm soil that a ag tire can bite into the square inches of the lugs in contact with the soil is increased. If you put that same tire on pavement you loose 2/3 of the contact. Lets not even bring up sand. The special cut of the HI-Preformance pulling tractors requires contact with the soil and a cleaning bar to remove loose soil, thus the low cut that Art mentioned and the reason. The low cut bars on the little bx tractors is not gonna hurt any lawn I would venture on. I suspect a greens keeper would not use them on a putting green. If you have a lawn like that, QUIT READING NOW, cause I'm sure to offend you. On most lawns/YARDS that I see compacts on any tire is suitable. If you use ag tires you may have to be careful in the spring or after rains. But if your lawn/yard is that delicate your turfs are gonna leave a slight rut also. On some yards you may have to use ags or chains for traction because of hills/slopes or soft spots. You might have to consider a smaller (lighter) tractor or psi contact with the soil and get floatation tires. I have had my turfs spin on full throttle direction, fwd/rev, changes mowing. Very rarely do I make a Fwd/rev change usually turn a full circle at end of row. I have spun ag tires in the same application and no difference in damage. I have been in the woods also with both types of tires. On damp spot soil ags work better than turfs. But I usually use chains in the woods to protect the tires, any time a tire spins or slips on wet/damp ground you have little/big cuts in the tires, and I do not see not much traction difference between ags and turfs with chains. My opinion is: for the variety of chores I do with my tractor turfs work the best, even in winter. Again I use chains often to protect tires and traction when I need it. Bottom line is: your application, your intended use and what will work best for you with or without chains.

Bar tires versus Turf tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 23 Post by harvey

Just gotta throw in my $.02 worth. My experience with JD service is great. They picked up tractor and redelivered NO CHARGE. Replacled the infamous front axle and a bushing in between 3 & 4 gear I think. Did my dealer check with JD in the sky first? You bet they did. Do I have to check with my health insurance first...? You bet I do. I owned small blu and now own small green. I grew up on Farmal, JD, Cockshutt and Oliver. All tractors and dealers have their points on both sides of the fence. I could not deal with the current Blue dealer or any of the othe Blue dealers locally, tried for 2 years, all seem to be in cahoots. Worked on JD for 6mo and got a deal for the same money as Blu. Plus I got on a larger tractor and JD still had to anty up a bounch of, pricey, throw in stuff. Green is good. Blue is good. The deal and the support is the break point, in my opnion. PS personally I would not own a hydro. Can not seem to get comfey on them.

new holland or john deere
New Holland Tractors
Replies 19 Post by harvey

Trae I've used the LP72" for the 7th season. Pin only lost one time. The nature of the pin and spring clips dictate paying attention to them. I also grease mine every mowing. I have looked at other rear decks and most have a similar arrangement so it is not a LP specific problem.

Which mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 9 Post by harvey

Paul you are correct. During the winter we were going to Cananda, for the past 3 years, and loading asphalt products along side the fuel and gas haulers. A very intresting process! For asphalt it took 3 tankers to clear the line of a product. By the fuel oil island there set a "red dye" injection unit. It activated when the product code called for it. Can not say proof positive fuel came from same vat, refinery process would dictate not. But....

Care and Feeding
Tractor Projects
Replies 22 Post by harvey

Look down in the tank and you should be able to see your float. If you need a light... use a flash light and turn it on away from the tank and any fumes. Use some baler wire to reach in and raise the float and see if it registers full that will narrow down your fix. Most likley float is sticking on something in tank and the rod can be bent to one side to clear it.

Fuel Guage Problem
Parts and Repair
Replies 17 Post by harvey