Go BottomB6100 Engine locked up
 | Kevin G.
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2002-09-16 42485
I recently got an old B6100 4WD Kubota from my neighbor. He stated that it was a workhorse and was left out last winter behind his barn. The cover to the exhaust pipe came off in a storm and water leaked down the pipe into the engine. When he discovered it this spring, the engine was "froze" up. He poured penetrating oil down the pipe and attempted (gently) to unlock the engine by letting of the clutch while in 2nd gear while being towed. After a couple of attempts he aborted in order to not damage the engine. I now have the tractor and am not much of a mechanic. I would like to know where to begin working on the engine in order to attempt to get it to run again and use on my property.
Any ideas as to where to start? I figured the 'experts' out here could point me in the right direction. Thanks
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 | jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan
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2002-09-16 42500
You need to pull the injectors and pour break out penetrating oil into the cylinders and let set overnight. The pistons are froze to the cylinder walls. Then you need to get a long heavy duty pry bar of steel and "BAR" the flywheel over. My brother and I did it to a Big JD 2 cylinder that sat out all winter WITHOUT an exhaust flapper. It darn near killed us but it worked. DO NOT TRY TO PULL START THAT TRACTOR. We had the bar and a 5 foot pipe wrench with a cable come along pulling and the pistons started moving slow then just after we got a complete turn it became much easier. ....
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL 
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2002-09-16 42517
ATF also works well as a penitrating oil. As it costs less you can fill the tops of the cylinders or the whole block and allow it to sit. For a aged vintage engine we might leave it a week. As stated before a large bar on the fly wheel is the starting point.
I have pulled cranks and heads and pounded out the cylinders but you are likely to break a ring and sacrifice a cylinder piston. You have to be prepared for a rebore and complete rebuild if you get to this point. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-09-17 42523
I think the conclusion and recommendations are going in the right direction. I guess the tractor was running OK before winter and nothing happened to it except winter. I imagine the goal is to see if the tractor can be returned to a workhorse role without doing much. If it's seized due to corrosion, it probably could use rebuilding, but if it can be freed without breaking anything, who knows how well it might run?
It might be a good idea to note that things other than rust can lock an engine. I have had an engine locked up due to the starter pinion jammed into the flywheel. I couldn't even remove the starter until I backed the engine up a bit with a socket and 2' breaker bar on the crankshaft damper at the front of the engine. That might be an alternative to trying to turn the flywheel. Many tractors don't have access to the flywheel unless it's split so it would take some major work just to get to the flywheel.
I'd also keep in mind that a lot of leverage and force could easily break something rather than free the engine. However, if it's 'do or die' for the engine without spending a bunch on it I guess a 'turn or else' approach wouldn't make much difference.
Removing the injectors will eliminate compression and make turning the engine easier. I think I'd do the oil thing and let it sit as recommended but start with something more modest like a breaker bar on the damper if possible. I also probably start by trying to back it up a bit first.
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2002-09-17 42531
We have had really good luck over the years using Diesel fuel as a penetrating oil, that stuff will seep through cracks you can't even see, and nearly melts the rust.
If you WARM (be VERY careful doing this, in fact we use a steel pail painted black sitting in the sun all day only to do it) the diesel fuel up, before you pour it into the cylinders it will work even better, because it is thinner and the cool steel of the block seems to draw it in.
Other than that, as was said already, a really big pry bar, with a really big person (or two) on the end of it, much persistence, and a some sweat.
Best of luck. ....
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| Kevin G.
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-10-08 43555
Thanks for all of the help. You guys were right on! I took the cylinders out and sprayed 'Blaster' down in the engine, let it sit for 3 days and then took a 1 1/8 socket and breaker bar and was able to turn the fly wheel to release the engine. After it broke free I cranked it several times to loosen it up with a large umbrella over the engine to keep the penetrating oil from showering the entire area..HA! I then disassembled and cleaned the cylinders, changed the fuel filter, replaced the cylinders but didn't tighten down the fuel lines to them completely, in order to bleed the air from the lines. Once everything was put back together, I started it up and she has ran like a dream ever since. I can't be any more pleased. Thanks again. ....
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| jeff r
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 428 burton. michigan
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2002-10-08 43578
We aim to please Kevin G
Jeff r ....
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