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 | paul troia
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2002-01-02 34195
i have a chance to bid a john deere 1050, any ideas on where the serial # is, it has an enclosure, loader, and flail mower, what is it worth?, what is the flail mower good for?, any weaknesses in this tractor?, thank you, paul
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| Paul Fox
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2002-01-02 34202
If the 50 series are consistent, the serial number tag is on the rear housing above the PTO. At least, that's where it is on my 750. Excellent machine, rugged as all get out. Flail mowers are good machines for mowing semi-rough territory, they'll mow right over rocks and stumps with no damage. No guess on what it's worth, depends on year, how many hours on the meter, general condition, options.
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| jdny
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2002-01-02 34203
Paul, the serial number on the 1050 should be on the back of the tractor between the pto shaft and the drawbar. FYI, from the 1998 ag blue book the serial numbers info. for the 1050 is as follows:
beginning no.................year
1000...........................1980
5280...........................1981
6572...........................1982
9001...........................1983
11006.........................1984
14001.........................1985
17001.........................1986
19501.........................1987
21479.........................1988
You didn't mention if it was 2wd or 4wd. For comparison, a family member bought a 1978 (first year built) 2wd 950 w/75 loader, DSC Valve and Power Steering with low hours in excellent shape for $6500 locally (NY). As far as value it mainly depends on location and condition. Compacts in my area aren't cheap. The Blue book (1988) lists avg. auction prices on the 2wd low.$5550..avg.$6161..high.$6675 and the 4wd low.$6477..avg.$7109..high.$7347. A loader and any implements would add additional value. As far as weaknesses I don't think there are many with the 50 series JD's. They were pretty solid and trouble free. IMHO, The hydraulics are a little slow by today's standards and I know hi/lo range on the reverse (at least on the early 950's) is either too slow or too fast for my liking. AFAIK, The 1050 does have a turbocharger so proper maintenance and oil changes might be a concern. Hope this info. helps and good luck on the purchase. Regards Mark
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| Gary in Indiana
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2002-01-02 34206
For what it's worth, I shopped for 1050's for quite a while until I stumbled across too good a deal to pass up on a 4000 series. I looked at a 1985 MFWD w/ FEL at $8500 that was in very average condition with fair ag tires. I also looked at a fairly decent 1990 MFWD 1070 w/ FEL for $10,300 with thin turf tires. Everything I've heard and read tells me the 1050 is almost bulletproof. I hope this helps. ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2002-01-02 34210
Paul, The 1050 is a very dependable tractor. The one shortcoming it has which includes all 50 series with the two stage clutch, is the cost of repair of the clutch. Before you buy it would be advisable to check clutch operation very carefully. If the entire clutch assembly would need replacing, the price from deere is around $1700.00 for just the parts.There may be cheaper prices in the aftermarket though. I'm not saying the clutch isn't reliable, it's just that the cost of repair is pretty stiff. Kenny ....
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| BillBass
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 190 North Texas
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2002-01-03 34220
Paul - I bought a 950 (same as 1050 except no turbocharger, 5 less hp) last spring. It has MFWD, JD 75 loader, 2000 hours, good condition for $8500. North Texas area.
It runs a 6' brush hog with no problem except in very heavy grass. Even then I just slow it down a little and keep going. ....
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| Rob Piper
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2002-01-12 34478
Paul I Bought a 1988 1050 MFWD it came with a 75 FEL
enclosed heated cab, 7' angle snow plow, turf tires, and a 6'
core plug aerrator, 415 hrs on it when purchased last oct.
for $ 8,500 the condition was excellent accept paint was
faded and minor surface rust. I have sice painted it and added a 8-1/2' back hoe with sub frame. no problems to speak of. I do wish it cam with power steering, a $600 after market option I'am thinking about. I have heard of the clutch
problem. I heard by many tht the clutch is under sized for the
tractor and the posting of $1,700 for compleate assembaly scares the hell out of me. although that sounds awfully steep
even for JD. hopefully its at least partially wrong any additional feedback from other poster would be great.
my one thought on that is to prolong clutch life by maby choosing a lower gear. That would do wonders for clutch and engine life, but may take a bit longer to compleate a job
good luck on your search hope this helpped you keep us posted on your search/purchase
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| Roger L.
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 0
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2002-01-13 34545
Rob, I wouldn't worry about that clutch at that price. The 1050 on one of my favorite tractors and I've heard about clutch problems.....though I haven't heard that it was because theclutches were undersize. What I heard was that these were tractors on which the owners which didn't lock down the clutch lever and ended up rusting the friction disk to the pressure plate. The $1700 price seems way out of line, though I confess that I couldn't find any at all in my tractor parts catelogues. Typical prices for clutch friction disks run about $150, Pressure plate assemblies form $250 to $400, and TO bearings around $50. It is common to save on this this price by rebuilding the friction disk and PPA. Most rural shops can tell you where. ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2002-01-14 34577
I didn't mean to scare everybody with the clutch price, but the $1700.00 is correct for complete clutch assembly including both transmission and pto disks and complete pressure plate assembly. Admittedly complete assembly is not usually needed, but the transmission disk alone is in excess of 400 dollars. The cheapest route is having old disk relined at a specialty clutch shop , the only drawback is increased downtime. As Roger said, it is definately a good idea to tie down the clutch pedal if tractor is to be idle for any length of time. Depending on the moisture in the air, I have seen these clutches stick in less than a week of sitting. Kenny ....
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| ROB PIPER
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2002-01-15 34599
Thanks JD 110 1963, & Roger. As always I find knowledgeable willing people on this site. I have heard of disk/plate rust up like if a pressure washer or steam cleaner was used, but never thought a tractor sitting for a week would do that. I Thought it would take a while to cause that problem. Maby it's best if I thank every one, and go out to tie back the clutch peddal.
thanks guys Rob. ....
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| Roger L.
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 0
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2002-01-15 34601
Rob, I was looking at a 1050 owner's manual today, and notice that it does show a picture of tying the clutch down with a piece of string!
But here is a better way: Notice that as you push the clutch pedal down your instep comes even with a flange held by a couple of (14mm?) bolts. If you fabricate a pivoting "L" shaped piece of metal and attach it under one of those bolts, you can just swing it over to lock down the clutch. Its not an original idea, lots of compacts have this little pivoting latch mechanism. If you look at a few gear-drive compacts you are bound to see one. ....
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 | StephenR
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 230 New Tripoli, Pa.
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2002-01-16 34607
JD110,
Does this clutch thing make a noise? On several occasions I have heard like a grinding noise coming from the clutch, and I'm wondering if it could be this rust problem. ....
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| Rob Piper
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-01-16 34617
Thanks Roger good idea I'm all over it. I did go out last night & contemplate the tie back method then thought a quick way might be a scrap 2 by 4 but that does seem a bit barbaric.
Then I was thinking something along the line of the ratcheting set up much like the brake locking device on the brake peddals. Plasma cutter plus scrap metal =no more head ache
and professional results. Wonder why JD didn't use this method ? I see the studs you are talking about. Then got thinking what the exact purpose of them are. Looking in the big thick JD bible-Technicle manual I see that they show some sort of proximity switch to detect when the peddal is depressed utilizing the bolts for fastening the switch bracket.
The odd thing is the manual depicts only the 2wd models employing the switch & no switch on the MFWD. Being a gear model only I would think that the switch if used on 2WD would also be on 4WD to prevent starting in gear. ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2002-01-16 34618
Stephen, the clutch may make some noise if it gets rusty, but it should disappear quickly if you start and stop several times. The rust polishes off pretty fast when the clutch engages and disengages a few times. Do you hear the noise when you first start for the day? Is it only when the clutch is pushed in? If the noise is only there when clutch is pushed in, you may have a throw-out bearing or pilot bearing problem. ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2002-01-16 34619
Rob, the clutch pedal switch was only used on early srial number models. The later models used a switch on the range shift lever on 8, 9, and 1050. The 6, and 750 used a switch on gearshift lever. It really didn't matter if it was 4wd or not. ....
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| 1050 power steering
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-12-12 46069
hey rob where's that power steering for 600.$ at i've heard of that before but no one seems to be able to find it around here or ever heard of an after market power steering for the 1050. i closed system? i want it.. i'm tying down my clutch this weekend and i'll stop riding it from now on... ....
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