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cpdtwo
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 27 az
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2006-12-08          137742

can not get 1500d to start . fuel system is good,injector where just redone, new pistons and rings in june, was running till alternator went out and now will not start. did a compression test but cylinders are about 300lbs. when cracking only white smoke out of the exsust. ckeck the vent pipe and do have a presure build up when held closed and cranking the motor. does anyone know what the pressure in the engine should be and is 300 lbs good or bad, did a check dry and wet found no real difference.
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Murf
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2006-12-08          137744

Not starting, or even firing, and making a little white smoke is an indication of air in the injector lines.

Get the battery well charged, and with something else on cables to boost it, try starting it using a little WD-40 as you would quick-start or ether, straihght down the intake.

I'd bet it at least tries to fire on that.

If you can get it to run on WD-40 or something like that, you can often get it to self-purge the fuel lines enough to run, after that a little hard running will often clear it up.

Best of luck. ....

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greg_g
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2006-12-08          137748

Alternatively, purge the fuel system of air. Loosen the fitting where the fuel (from the filter) enters the injection pump. Use the hand pump until raw fuel (no bubbles) comes out, then tighten the fuel line back down.

Next, loosen the hex head compression fittings that hold the hardlines to the fuel injectors. With the tractor in neutral and the compression release open, crank the engine. Again, watch for raw fuel around the compression fittings (no bubbles) then tighten them back down.

Start engine

//greg// ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-08          137749

tryed the wd40 no luck with that. did find out the min compression should be 325 and i'm there in one and just below it in the other. check the injectors when they where out and they seem to be spiting out fuel ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-08          137750

have bled the system till fuel comed out the lines still nothing. and have been turning it over with my truck hook up to the battery. ....

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Murf
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2006-12-08          137751

A diesel is a pretty simple beast.

If you have compression and fuel, it WILL fire, period.

Don't be afraid to give it LOTS of fuel, of almost (ether excepted) kind.

If you're quick enough on the trigger, you can make a diesel run almost indefinitely on WD-40, I've done it.

It should also fire with a LOT less than 300 psi of compression. In fact, the white smoke is just that, the result of combustion. It just means you're not getting enough fuel (too much is black smoke) for it to fire enough to spin the motor, or to hear it.

If you're carefull, give it a puff of ether and see if it fires on that, but not too much.

Best of luck. ....

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greg_g
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2006-12-08          137752

Is it possible your compression release is stuck open? Because even if it was a stuck valve, it should start/run on as few as one cylinders.

If that's not the case - and since you said "the injectors were just redone" perhaps the rebuilder used the wrong springs/shims and you're getting insufficient aerosol to the pre-combustion chamber

//greg// ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-08          137753

release seems to be working fine, I do get presure out of the breather tube when held closed, don't know if it means anything. read that if you hold it closed and you have bad rings it would pop the dip stick, not that much presure. and how would I know if they used the right shims, was done by an authoried Yanmar injector shop. ....

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kthompson
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2006-12-08          137755

I am not a mechanic but: is it possible you have a clogged fliter reducing amount of fuel or a cut off valve partly shut or a fuel cutoff for emergency engine shutdown partly pulled.

Seems odd it stopped with your alternator. Is there a electric fuel shutoff valve not opening fully.

Murf is correct on the WD 40, you can start and run a diesel with that as your only fuel source if you keep the spraying right on volumne.

With the recent chill could you have summer fuel and it is cold enough where you are the fuel is too thick?

Hope you well. ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-08          137756

filter is clean and fuel is flowing freely to pump, the only fuel shut off is before the pump and it manual, ....

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earthwrks
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2006-12-08          137759

My blue does this when I get bad fuel or when I let it run too low too many times and get condessation in the tractor tank and the transfer tank on the trailer (or more accurately leave the cap off the transfer tank). Sounds like water in the fuel to me. And the white smoke may be steam mixed with too little fuel.

I'd start with flushing the complete fuel system--especially the filter, then add new fresh fuel. ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-09          137773

have new fuel system was purged of all fuel prior to new fuel. even tried pullimg it and nothing belive it may be fuel pump related. pulled the lines off and it seems to be erictic as far as pumping fuel. its that or can the timming jump gear? seem hard on a gear driven cam. if it had a timing chain it would seem like it did. ....

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earthwrks
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2006-12-09          137777

If the fuel tank is higher than the injector pump it likely doesn't haven't have a fuel pump per se (gravity feed). Have you installed a new fuel pump? Mine gets a slimey, gooey organic growth around it that instaly plugs it up. You can't really see it until you remove and dump out the filter bowl. ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-09          137778

no fuel pump just an injector pump, ever things seem clean fuel flowing to the injector pump and out bleader screw. ....

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earthwrks
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2006-12-09          137779

Assuming the engine is getting the proper air, next I'd try the fuel cutoff solenoid assuming you don't pull/push a knob to cut off supply. My blue's electric solenoid cicuit stopped working, so I found a circuit that worked and connected it to it. And has worked ever since.
Traced the problem to a seat sensor that had gone bad. Which leads me to the other point: connectors, sensors, fuses related to the starting circuit not necessarily the starter itself. Be sure the parking brake, control levers, etc. are in the right position and the switches are in adjustment. ....

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earthwrks
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2006-12-09          137786

I saw your other post about parting it out. I wouldn't just yet--check the glow plug. With all this cold weather the glow plug HAS to be used, especially if the rings haven't seated yet. A new glow plug is about $80---but i could be relay or a bad or disconnected wire too. ....


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cpdtwo
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2006-12-09          137788

there is no cut off, and no glow pulgs either. there ia a mechancial govener the shuts off the fuel but it would not explain why one line get fuel and the other does not this is a 1979 tractor they made them so simlpe then ....

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earthwrks
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2006-12-09          137791

According to the Hoyer tractor site there is a "thermostart glow plug unit"--only one the picture shows. It is odd looking in that it has a tube and a small canister going to it. If you go to the link in my last post and then go to "glow plug" it will show it.

Also there has to be some sort of shutoff or run control otherwise how would the engine shut down or start? (it's not like a gas engine where if you cut power to it, it shut down---diesels can "run-on" or "run-away" even after shut off) ....

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greg_g
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2006-12-09          137792

ThermoStart and glow plugs are not the same thing. I had TS on my YM240, and it would fire up a below zero engine like it was a summer day.

The TS system is comprised of a small bulb-like reservior for diesel fuel connected by hose to a heating element in the intake manifold. The heating element is not unlike an automotive cigarette lighter, and it's connected to a button or switch on the dash. When you want a cold start assist, you energize the heating element from the dash. The colder the air temp (and subsequently the intake manifold) the longer it takes to warm up the heating element. When it's "at temperature", you crank the engine. Vacuum is drawn, which in turn pulls a small amount of diesel fuel out of the TS reservior. If the heating element is already over 250F, it's possible for the dripping fuel to ignite right there in the intake manifold (hence the other name "flame heater"). In that case, the flaming fuel is drawn into the combustion chamber where it mixes with cold fuel from the main tank. The cold fuel is warmed, making detonation combustion easier in a cold cylinder. But even if the fuel is not flaming when it enters, it's still been warmed considerably as it passes through the cigarette lighter-like heating element.

So after all that, I'll finally get to the point. Thermostart is a dead simple system. But - if only one of its components isn't working, the whole system fails.

If you can start a stone cold 1500D with WD40 or starting fluid, but NOT with the ThermoStart - suspect the ThermoStart. If then - once started - the engine quits, start it again and try to keep it running with the primer pump. If that works, you've got an injector pump problem. If that doesn't work, the strainer in the main tank might be fouled.

But you wrote one thing that needs clarification; about why only one line gets fuel. Would you elaborate on that please?

//greg// ....

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Art White
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2006-12-12          137926

Sounds like the pump to me. ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-12          137927

I think the same thing. took it off monday and had hard time the rack inside was not sliding and may have shut down the flow of fuel. took it in and now I'm waiting for the bad news(cost). ....

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Chief
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2006-12-13          137931

Just for good measure, have you verified proper timing of the engine and injector pump? ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-13          137940

pump runs off of the cam and unless the can jumpds it shold not change time, prior to monday the pump was not off. when putting it back of will use same shims as i took off so it should be the same timming. unless someone knows how it would get off timming, if so let me know please. ....

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cpdtwo
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2006-12-14          137995

just replaced the injector pump and still will not start!!!!!!!! getting ready to have a winnie roast guess what i will use for the fire ....

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SG8NUC
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2006-12-14          138005

are you sure you are getting fuel, I took mine apart and I filled the fuel filter with fuel by hand. You said in an earler post that you did fuel flow. GOOD FUEL, GOOD AIR, GOOD FIRE, AND GOOD OIL = SHOULD START OR AT LEAST FIRE. just an Idea. You are a long drive for a winnie roast. ....

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kthompson
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2006-12-15          138028

The question I think asked earlier and I don't see a comment from you on it, are you sure you don't have bad fuel or water in it?

Something that has worked for me a time or two is to pull it to crank. You can get a faster engine turn over than the starter and for longer period of time. If you do, be careful. If you have a hydrostat trans have no idea if this could damage it.

Hang in there, you will get it going. ....

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auerbach
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2007-09-26          146126

Clogged air filter? ....

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randywatson
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2007-09-27          146152

Just a thought, have you adjusted the valves since the rebuild.

On my bota it calls for adjustment after 30 hrs new, and every 50 hours after,

If needing adj it may cause this problem,,, ....

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Murf
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2007-09-27          146154

Since we haven't heard from the original poster on this issue in the last 10 months I doubt it really matters much now.

Best of luck. ....

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randywatson
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2007-09-27          146163

Murf,

you are right, guess that's what I get for not looking at the date of the post, and replies. I read the thread and thought I'd throw out my two cents worth,

guess I'll take a little more care in the reading from now on. ...:) ....

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funkster
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2007-10-01          146316

Thanks for not reading the dates. I haven't been on for a while and was looking at this posting and your thought about adjusting valves might help me with my problem. I've got 75 hours on my rebuild. Tractor was starting and running great then one day it wouldn't start. Had to give it a small puff of starting fluid then it takes right off and runs fine. Starts okay when warmed up though. I'm puzzled. I do have a banjo fitting on the fuel line that is seeping, I suppose it could be pulling in some air from this causing the problem. Oh well I might consider adjusting the valves again as well. Kind of funny how we respond to postings that someone probably solved a year ago. ....

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