Box Blade don t scrape: Yanmar Tractors  -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum and Review Box Blade don t scrape: Yanmar Tractors -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum

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 02-20-2003, 06:41 Post: 49593
Petwa
2003-02-20 06:41:16
Post: 49593
 Box Blade don t scrape

Got a set of toys recently, am new to this fun. One of my implements that came with my Yanmar YM2000 was a box blade made by Lowery out of Alabama. Try as I might I can't seem to get it adjusted where the teeth contact mother earth. I'm believing the top link must be too long. I only need another 2 inches and I believe that will angle the teeth more towards the ground. How deep should the teeth engage or should they not? My top length measures 21 inches long from centerline of pin holes. Do they make a 19" guy? The gentleman that sold me this fun package suggested Tractor Supply, they have those here in South Carolina. I have enjoyed this site, I've learned quite a bit, many thanks for all the help.






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 02-20-2003, 09:02 Post: 49610
DRankin



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 Box Blade don t scrape

Sounds like you really need a shorter top link. Are the scarifiers (teeth) not adjustable also? Mine slide up and down in individual slots.

The starting point or neutral point on a box blade can be determined by parking the tractor on a paved surface and lowering the blade to the ground.

You should be able to rest the front and rear cutting surfaces of the box scraper on the concrete or asphalt at the same time. While there, your top/center link should have adjustment left over sufficient to tilt further in either direction.

Aftermarket replacement links are plentiful and usually priced around $30.00. If you can't find one short enough I have a small supply of new Cat 1 links that run 13.5 minimum and 20 inches max.







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 02-20-2003, 13:49 Post: 49631
petwa
2003-02-20 00:00:00
Post: 49631
 Box Blade don t scrape

The scarifier doesn't engage the ground on a level surface, it's about 1-2 inches high, the back blade touches the surface but the forward blade misses by about 1/4-1/2". I've adjusted the top link as tight as it will go to reach this position, tried the forward holes on the hitch. I found a Tractor Supply but they only have the 20" links for a cat I. They were 20 bucks. I believe I'm needing a 19". If you have one let me know how I can acquire it, many thanks.






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 02-20-2003, 13:50 Post: 49632
petwa
2003-02-20 00:00:00
Post: 49632
 Box Blade don t scrape

By the by to answer your other question, the scarifiers are adjustable, two holes, I've got them as far down as they will go.






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 02-20-2003, 16:57 Post: 49643
DRankin



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 Box Blade don t scrape

I can send you one for $30.00 shipping included. Click on my name and e-mail me if you are interested.






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 02-21-2003, 06:26 Post: 49680
TomG

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 Box Blade don t scrape

If I was doing it, I'd be trying to put a hydraulic top-link on and figuring what length of cylinder is needed. I do like my box scraper but I'm sure I'd like it a lot less and maybe not at all without the hydraulic top-link.

My scarifiers are probably longer and they have three positions. I'd guess that the scarifiers fully down would hold the blade maybe 8" off the ground when the link is as short as it goes. I hope that a mere one-inch shorter does the trick. I do need considerable penetration of the scarifiers when I'm using the box to remove sod.

The position used for the top-link mount on the tractor will make a bit of difference on how far up a box can be rolled. The upper positions are usually used for high-draft implements, and a box might qualify as one. The upper positions might let the box roll p more as well.






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 02-28-2003, 07:42 Post: 50245
petwas



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 Box Blade don t scrape

Mark,

I got the shortened link! Now that was quick. Thanks a bunch. It's been raining for 3 days so I haven't had the chance to check things out. It would appear that this will do the trick though. If you don't mind though, can you give me a source for this shortened link, I would hate to bug you for another if I'm ever in need again. I explained the problem to the gent I bought the equipment from and he would like to get some spares so as to provide better service to his customers. He has sold a few of these models with box blades. Will keep you posted on how everything turns out. Thanks again






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 02-28-2003, 19:02 Post: 50277
Jeff Earthwerks Unlimited



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 Box Blade don t scrape

If you tilt the scraper the opposite way so that the rear blade is off the ground by about 3/4" you can do amazing work, like smoothing topsoil, by driving in reverse. In reverse the scraper reacts much differently than when going forward. I made a hydraulic link that can instantly change its length by turning a valve that allows the fluid from one end of the cylinder to the other. This allows me to change the tilt going back and forth just by turning a valve---what a time saver. This is not powered by the hydraulics, however I have installed quick disconnects to make it a powered top link when needed.






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 03-01-2003, 05:16 Post: 50289
TomG

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 Box Blade don t scrape

Jeff: That sounds like a float for a box scraper and a pretty interesting idea. If I understand how it works, in float and sitting still, the box would tend to level itself on its (fixed?) cutters. Going either forward or reverse would cause the front or rear cutter to bite. The attack angle would increase as long as the cylinder remained in float. So, I guess you drive until there's a good attract angle and then release the float. Clever! I'd probably stick with my plain old hydraulic top-link--especially because I often end up with too much bite and want to reduce the attack on the fly.

The idea does sound like a great benefit for people who don't have rear outlets for a hydraulic top-link. I remember driving myself nuts using a scraper before I got my hydraulic top-link by constantly having to hop on and off the tractor to manually adjust the top-link. I was leveling a pad for a 10" x 40' construction trailer into a mild compound grade and the blade angle was critical to getting the job done.

I think my top-link is too long to roll the box up far enough to do the compacting in reverse that you describe. I do a bunch of it going forward though.






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 03-01-2003, 11:41 Post: 50314
Jeff Earthwerks Unlimited



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 Box Blade don t scrape

The hydraulic top link typically doesn't float (meaning it goes in and out by itself)./ Rather the box scraper itself floats. The idea behind the hydraulic top link is to change the tilt only when stopped by "opening" the valve to allow in/out of the piston, then using the 3pt hitchraise lower to change tilt. Driving forward or reverse causes the desired leading edge of the front or back blade to dig in which chnages the tilt---almost like putting on the brakes on the scraper (if it had brakes)






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