| Click to Post a New Message!
Page [ 1 ] | | | |
|
|
|
trailer
I am going to weld a trailer to use with my tractor a16ft .Will 6013 do or do I need to use something else.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
Two things come to mind right off the bat.
First, a trailer is NOT the place for someone to learn welding, it is something that should, for safety reasons, be left to VERY accomplished welders.
Secondly, to answer your question, no 6013 is not an appropriate electrode to use for something like structural welds, it is better suited to low current welds on light material where strength is less important than appearance.
A better choice would be something like 7018.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
If you only have an ac machine, 6011 will do the job also. You may want to cover the weld with 6013 after.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
6013 is a good rod that don't splatter, strikes easy and welds smoothly. It gives a nice finish unlike 6011 and 6011 is hard to strike on a used rod. 7018 is a very good rod, makes a smooth weld and strikes easy. In my experience the weld seldom fails. The metal at the edge of the weld fails. The extra 10,000 lb of tensil strength in the 7018 rod would be of little use on a trailer. However, the smoothness of the weld using 6013 or 7018 would be a benifit.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
A 6013 does not penetrate as well as a 6011 or 7018. That is part of the reason why the metal beside the weld fails. Which is still actually a failure of the weld.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
The weld filler metal nees to be matched to the weld process and the base material. The first 2 numbers are the weld metal tensile strength, the third number is the positions the filler metal is allowed for, and the fourth number is the flux and current indicator.
For AC welding, 1-4, or 6-8 is acceptable. For welding structural sections, 7018 is compatable with most low carbon steels, and is an all position rod.
As previously stated, welding a trailer is not a good project to learn on. Trailers take a lot of abuse, and are subject to dynamic (fatigue) load revesals. Welds that look ok may have deficiencies that could be a problem on the road.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
I do like and use both 6013 and 7018. I am not a schooled welder but self taught. I looked in my booklet of rods and it listed 6012,6013 and 7014 for welding carbon steel sheet metal. It listed 7018 and 7028 for welding thicker carbon and alloy steel. I have liked and always used 6013 more than any other rod. I seldom have penetration or weld failure but I like to use the rod size, amperage and puddle control to get the penetration and bonding of the parts. I probably should start using more 7018 because I do like the way it flows and puddles. I seldom weld stuff thicker than 1/2" so penetration is not a problem. Aw shucks fellows, you talked me into it. I'll buy 5lbs of 7018 the next time I buy rods.
I totally agree, a trailer is NOT a good first project for a new welder. To many things to go wrong.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
This trailer is to use with my tractor . It will never be on the road .I have all ready made one it is 10ft .But i can not get much hay on it.I need a big one.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
The structural design is also important. Suggest you visit local trailer dealers and compare designs. Copy the best looking one. You can make hand sketches and measurements after business hours without being disturbed.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
trailer
"In my experience the weld seldom fails. The metal at the edge of the weld fails."
"I seldom have penetration or weld failure but I like to use the rod size..."
Caldarnel, with all due respect, failure of the metal next to the weld, is a weld failure. It is caused by using an incorrect rod, an incorrect amperage setting, or both.
Penetration is a function of BOTH the amperage settings and rod type.
Unfortunately with very little practice it is easy to make remarkably good-looking welds, which are structurally nearly useless.
I would advise anyone who wishes to weld anything where strength is an issue to either take a course, or at the very least get a couple of books and learn the basics of how welding works.
Gizmo, if you want a 'trailer' that is strictly for behind your tractor, I would suggest a wagon is a better choice. In fact you can almost always get a used wagon in decent shape for less than it would cost you to build one.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page [ 1 ] | | | |
Thread 120947 Filter by Poster:
3 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 1 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
jman50
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
trailer: Welding -- General Tractor Discussion Forum
Cub Cadet 1512 starter removal
12-13-2005, 08:08 
Digg It 
Del.icio.us 
