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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 11988
todd seaford



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 help using boxscraper

I have a JD755 4wd tractor with loader and boxscrape. when I try to pull the boxscrape to level the ground, the front wheels drop into small ruts and cause the boxscrape not to level the ground like I want. What am I doing wrong or what can I do better. Thanks in advance.Todd






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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 11990
DanaT



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 help using boxscraper

I've go the set up it works quite well! When you first start go in reverse & drive slow, just like a cat- if you keep enough in front of your blade & your tractor driveing over what you just did you will get the job done alot faster. Then when you get close to what you want then drive forward & go slow, never drive faster than you can control the 3 point lever to do what you want to do. Go in diferent direction's & big circles will also help (if you got room). But mainly it takes alot of practice & practice & practice. works for me.






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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 12002
CHRIS



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 help using boxscraper

Could you please explain you method a little clearer.






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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 12004
Roger L.



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 help using boxscraper

Todd, something is not making sense to me here...Your 3pt should be able to drop the box far enough down that it is "floating" on the surface of the ground
as you pull it. If you do this, then the box won't go up and down as the tractor pitches. When I use my box blade the 3pt control lever is pushed all the way forward (maximum drop) and left there. The aggressiveness of the cut is controlled by tilting the box blade with the upper link.
BTW, I think that a box blade is one of the most difficult implements to pull when it is working hard. It takes good traction and lots of horses. Lots of small tractors are paired with too large of a box blade and so the operator ends up trying to skim the ground by using the 3pt instead of just letting the box float. If this sounds familiar, you can try to shorten the upper link or get a smaller box.






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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 12008
bo



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 help using boxscraper

The box blade is used to rough out an area. You can go backwards and get the area generally there when necessarybut forwards most of the time and then you can go forwards and drag a load of dirt for the low spots that you see visually. If you have a big dip then the box will follow the dip and it will stay a dip. This is where you have to play with the 3pt and lift it a little. This loose dirt will get dragged out of the dip if you aren't careful as you go over it. Most times for those small ruts, the blade will just fill them. As Roger says, you slam the control lever forward all the way and let the box blade do the work. the only time you play with the lever is when you want to move and drop dirt.
The rippers on the blade are used to break up the ground when the boxblade just won't. With my 870, it is unreal how well this works. After the general levelling is done then and only then do you mount the Gill seeder or whatever it's called in your area. Then you whip around and it not only pulverizes the soil clumps but also does a wonderful job of final leveling. I did a lot of this and the subsequent lawns are really level. Even better then a Power gill or pulverizer. Don't break up the dirt dust fine, seed likes little 1/2-3/4 clumps of dirt to hide under.
tried something new last September . Seeded about 2000 feet of lawn and didn't feel like raking it all in by hand. Took the seeder and raised it so that the back roller just hit the dirt, not the I beam and drove around until the seed was covered . Took 15 minutes would have taken 2-3 hrs by hand. A week later the rye was up and 2 weeks after that the fescue came. It worked........ Then......I destroyed the whole thing by having to drive on it. It'll probably come back and fill in in the spring. If it doesn't I'll put on the Gill and rip her up again. bo






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 01-16-2000, 00:00 Post: 12009
bo



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 help using boxscraper

forgot to say that if you want to move stone or major piles of dirt, you gotta load the boxblade and as you drive off, raise it a couple of inches to distribute the load. If you want to run it off to one side. tilt the blade with the 3pt screw. To make the blade cut you gotta to get the cutting edge in such a position that it will cut, again the toplink screw does this. If it just polishs the dirt and won't cut, load more weight on it, what ever you have , lead, steel however you can, or, drop your rippers. As Roger says, need a lot of tractor or 4wd or smaller box blade..bo






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 01-17-2000, 00:00 Post: 12010
JonB



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 help using boxscraper

Todd, I also have a lightweight tractor, JD 4100, am new to tractoring, and agree with the comments above. I use a 48" box scraper with 4 rippers. Last summer when my ground was more like concrete, I used it to level some large ruts and mounds of dirt--ground that was challenging just to drive across let alone level. I had to set the rippers deep to break loose the mounds and ruts--keeping the box up high. When the rippers got too deep in the soil, I'd get stuck, raise them hydraulically, and try again but without letting them go so deep. I couldn't float the box at this point because the ground was far too uneven. My 20 HP featherweight couldn't "float" the box through or across this ground at first. But after the rippers broke up the large ruts and mounds of dirt, I could lower the box and eventually allow it to float. At this point I even removed the rippers. It took several passes and some practice to get it right. There were times I had to keep my hand on the control level and raise or lower depending on the ground condition. All said, the tractor did a great job of leveling it out and I was happy with the result. But I still need lots more practice. Best of luck. We'll both get it right in time. JonB






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 01-17-2000, 00:00 Post: 12016
Doug Huebner



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 help using boxscraper

I am a beginner at the box scraper also. I found that tilting the box slightly forward so that the front blade is tilted down and the back blade slightly up and then going backwards worked well. The back blade shaves the bumpms and pushes enough material to fill the ruts. The front blade smooths it all out. I did a driveway in a few hours [after five tandem truckloads of gravel were dropped off]. I tried in the forward direction and was getting nowhere but created even more ruts.






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 01-17-2000, 00:00 Post: 12017
bo



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 help using boxscraper

yup going backwars does smoothen things out. Going forward can get a little tricky. What I do is back up and grab a box full of stuff and haul it to where I want to drop it, raise the blade a inch or two and let fly. then I go backward to compress and level. you gotta play with it. Image what you would have to do if you didn't have the box blade, it'd be horrible. bo






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 01-17-2000, 00:00 Post: 12025
Murf

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 help using boxscraper

If you have limited power, or 2wd, or are doing just minor grading, try picking up a set of 'runner' type skid shoes from a 3pt rototiller or snowblower and mounting them on the sides of the box-blade, this will limit the depth of cut, therefore reducing the amount of push (or pull) power required. This also makes it VERY easy to do for someone without much experience to do a first rate job. Best of luck.






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