Road Crown: Tractor Implements  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Road Crown: Tractor Implements -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 12-08-2004, 06:56 Post: 101832
rpelleschi



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 Road Crown

Gentlemen, I will be attempting to put in a gravel road approx 400ft long. I have went back through the posts and tried to get some info, and have asked a few questions. I understand the concept of a crown, but I was looking for some specifics. I am guessing that you cut the crown into the earth as oppossed to making the center of the road higher with gravel. Is this correct? Also if so how high do you leave the center in relation to the sides, and whats the best way to get that shape? I have a JD 4400 with fel. I'm going to buy a 6' box scraper, and I have access to a Cat 941 track loader. Once again fellows any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys have been great. Thanks
Randy






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 12-08-2004, 07:42 Post: 101837
beagle

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I cut the crown in the ground first, then crowned the gravel. If you are going to final grade with a box blade, like I do, I would recommend a hydraulic tilt for the 3-point. It does a great job of preparing and maintaining the crown on the road or driveway. I cut about 4" crown in my road, at 12 feet wide. Seems to be about right to drain the road and keep the pot-holes from forming. Start at the perimeter, and work towards the center of the road.

Look into placing a fabric under the gravel if you are building over clay or cohesive soils. The right fabric will keep your gravel from dissappearing into the subgrade. If you have clay or loam, you may also want to consider rolling in about 1 foot of limestone or crushed concrete before your finish grade of gravel. Put down the limestone, roll it in tight, fabric, then the gravel. The finish gravel should have be a binder mix, I have used either a clay/gravel mix or a limestone mix (21AA-crush). You will have a good firm road that can stand up to and shed water really well.






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 12-09-2004, 03:39 Post: 101929
rpelleschi



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beagle, I want to make sure I get this right. I take off the topsoil to get to the clay underneath to a width of twelve feet. Once there start with the box blade, which is the same thing as a box scraper right? Do you pull the dirt from the edge of the road into the center, or try to cut pararlel with the road at an angle? If so how do you angle the box? Thanks






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 12-09-2004, 06:08 Post: 101931
greg_g



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Seems to me it'd be less work to create the crown as you cut/scrape with the box blade, than it would be to reconstruct a crown after leveling. Hopefully at least one of your lower lift arm links (the vertical ones) is adjustable. That's where you put some horizontal tilt into the box. That permits you to cut/scrape with one side of the box a few inches higher than the other. If you always keep the high side towards the center, what's left behind will form the crown.

//greg//






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 12-09-2004, 07:27 Post: 101937
beagle

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Cut the crown in the subgrade before adding the gravel. This will keep the road surface uniform.

Tilt the box blade to cut the crown. Tip the outside edge down and start at the perimeter of the road. The box will shed soil to the inside to start forming the crown. If you are using a rear grader blade, tilt the outside edge down and angle towards the ceneter of the road to start building up the crown.

Hope that answers your questions.






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 12-09-2004, 07:44 Post: 101939
rpelleschi



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very good info thanks guys. What would be the preferred implement you would use to cut for the crown, and is what you guys are calling a "box blade" the same as a box scaper?






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 12-09-2004, 08:05 Post: 101944
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Except for construction scrapers that scoop/dump, box scraper and box blade are generally interchangeable terms. Perhaps you're confusing one with a rear (grader) blade. See
http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductCatalog/FT/category/FT_LANDSCAPE.html and http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductCatalog/FR/category/FR_SCRAPER.html for clarification

//greg//






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 12-10-2004, 08:50 Post: 102039
rpelleschi



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Thanks for the help






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 12-25-2004, 13:37 Post: 102912
tomrscott



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I had been expecting to use a box blade for this same task, but had a real experienced tractor guy tell me the other day that I ought to use a rear blade with tilt and swivel. I've seen these with both manual and hyd. tilt.






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 12-25-2004, 13:41 Post: 102913
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So what is the best way to get tilt in your 3p? Do you get an accessory hyd cyl? Do you have to take a hyd line from the FEL, or can you easily add an accessory hyd line? I've been kind of thinking of getting a tiltable rear blade instead of, or in addition to a box blade. Manual tilting may not be too big a hassle, given that you want to get a consistent angle anyway.






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