Mckee PTO Drive train: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Mckee PTO Drive train: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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 02-12-2008, 14:09 Post: 151280
redhorseb275



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 Mckee PTO Drive train

I have a used Mckee 5' 3ph blower that has some play in the main PTO gear. The teeth in the main gear are a little warn resulting in some play in the pinion gear. About 1/8" in play.

I think there is 2 Allen key studs bolts that mount unto the main axsile but are so old & rusted I can't release them.

I'm looking for another way of taking out this play & tighting the linkage so it doesn't vibrate under heavy load.

Has any one have a solution they have tried?

I'm trying to find a "butterfly washer" type of bushing that would close around the axsile and tighten the gears.

Regards,
Kirk






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 02-12-2008, 14:40 Post: 151281
Murf

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 Mckee PTO Drive train

An 1/8" of play shouldn't be enough to make a difference.

Are you sure there is enough of the proper type of lubricant in the gear box?

BTW, welcome neighbour! How's things in the Nations Capital?

Best of luck.






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 02-12-2008, 19:42 Post: 151288
redhorseb275



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Hi Murf

Ottawa and area is getting a real old fashion winter and lots of snow. We've had -20C for the last 2 nights. My tractor & snow blower are down in Cottage country in the 1000 Islands area at Red Horse Lake & we're getting more snow there than I've seen in the last 5 years. So the snow blower is working pretty hard this winter. I'm keeping about 1 km of cottage road open.

I seems to operate pretty smooth in lite 6" of new snow. But when I get into an old snow bank thats 2 ft deep & crusty the tractor settles down & you hear it start to work. -Then just in the last week, as if something has changed the whole auger drive. From the main gear box to the chain drive starts to vibrate & even clunk a bit as if its jumping a gear.

Not exactly sure where the source of the problem is but because I can see an 1/8" inch of play in the main gear box I'm suspect that's where the play is when it gets under load.

I'm using a "white all purpose CTC axle grease". Which maybe a little lite What type do you think would be ideal?

Regards,
Kirk.......






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 02-13-2008, 06:05 Post: 151296
hardwood

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 Mckee PTO Drive train

Kirk; I'm not familliar with the machine you have but if it is a conventional roller chain drive then perhaps the chain and sprokets have become worn and the chain rides up on the teeth and jumps a tooth under load. If this is the case a new chain really doesn't solve the problem, the old sprokets just ruin the new chain. New sprokets and chain are really the only permanent fix. Then there is the old argument on how tight to run a roller chain. I like to see just a bit of slack on the return side. Frank






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 02-13-2008, 09:58 Post: 151302
Murf

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 Mckee PTO Drive train

I think Frank hit it on the mark, and said what I was thinking.

There's a lot of pieces that will break or wear before anything in the banjo goes bad. Blowers are notoriously bad on chains, especially doing what you mention, chewing up hard old frozen icebergs of snow banks.

Check the amount of free play on the chain (with the tractor turned off of course) there should be no more than enough to allow about 1" of travel in the longest open span of chain, and almost none in the others.

You should also have a good look at the sprockets, missing and worn teeth are pretty normal for a blower that works had, pebbles get in there with the snow and chew them up and stretch the chain.

Best of luck.






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 02-13-2008, 10:32 Post: 151306
redhorseb275



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The chain maybe the source of the vibration problem. I have had some trouble with it about the same time as this new problem occurred. In fact I broke a link in the 50:1 chain & had to replace 3 links using -2 Transition links & -1 connector link. The chain has ended up with more slack than ideal even with the idler sprocket is adjusted to its limit.

Its quite possible it got stretched in the break, & maybe its time to take out 1 link! I'm going to give that a try & let you know. Thanks for putting me onto the "chain issue". Kirk...






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 02-13-2008, 13:02 Post: 151313
hardwood

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 Mckee PTO Drive train

Half links seem to always be the first link to fail in a chain, if you can avoid using one it is better. There is a real difference in roller chain too, there is #50, 60, etc common and thwre is 50, 60, etc H meaning heavy. It has thickeer side plates and higher quality pins. American made chain costs more but is always better than the import stuff. Frank.






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 02-13-2008, 13:39 Post: 151316
redhorseb275



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 Mckee PTO Drive train

I may end up replacing the chain down the road if it breaks again. Its old & rusty but seems ok, as far as I can tell.

Where's the best place to buy a replace #50-1 chain?

I've looked at Princess Auto & they were out of stock.
TSC had them in stock ~$20, I think it was in 10' lengths & you had to cut & fit to the right size & then use a connector link I guess? I expect both these suppliers were imports & possibly light duty?

I'm in the US frequently would TSC in NY State be a good place to pick up a HD US made chain? Kirk....








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 02-13-2008, 13:51 Post: 151317
hardwood

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Kirk; I'm not sure what TSC stocks. A regular farm implement dealership, (Case/IH- Deere- Agco) keep most all sizes and usually have US or import in stock in bulk rolls, your choice. Take your old chain with you, they will count the links and cut a new one to fit. Frank.






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 02-13-2008, 13:57 Post: 151318
hardwood

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Kirk; Just another thought. Obviously if your old chain is rusty it was not stainless steel. Lots of snowblowers and other machines that operate in wet or corrosive conditions use stainless steel roller chain, a bit pricey, but it never rusts. Frank.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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