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Finishing the interior - Pole Barn

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millers1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 94 Charles Town, WV
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2006-01-08          122410

I have a pole barn and I'm looking for ideas on finishing the interior. Specifically, I'm looking for ideas on type of insulation, and how to construct the walls. I'm not sure if I should use 2x4 studs between the posts or ? Here's the specs on the building...

30x40, with concrete floor.
2 insulated garage doos on 30' wide gable end.
Eave vents and ridge vent.
12' uninsulated walls.
8' loft.
1" styrofoam insulation sandwiched between rafters and roof.
Posts every 10 feet.
Horizontal 2x4's (Purlins) every 2'.
Rafters 2' on center.
3/4" plywood flooring in loft.
Loft is 40' long by 10' wide.

I also need to finish the ceiling so I can insulate above and guess I have to watch the weight of the material to avoid reducing my usable storage weight in the loft.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions...





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sloancon
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16 North Carolina
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2006-01-08          122420

Filling in between the poles with conventiuonal framing would probably be best for insulation, wiring, plumbing and paneling. If you insulate between rafters be sure you leave a 1 inch air space or will have condensation on tin that drips down. Need sofit and ridge vent if you go between rafters. Did one for big cattle farmer and poured a curb between poles when we poured the floor so he could clean out with a skid steer and not push the wall out. ....

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millers1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 94 Charles Town, WV
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2006-01-08          122423

Yup, got enough vents and room above rafters. I like the idea of pouring a "curb". This is my first pole barn and I've learned what I'd do differently... Next time, I'll skip the loft and just make a bigger barn. Also, I'd skip the fiber reinforced concrete and use rebar.

I'm thinking of studding out between the posts and using T-111 on the bottom lower 4' of the wall, then a thinner plywood above that. As for the insulation, I've heard of spray-in foam but haven't seen anyone locally doing that. I'm thinking there may be a need for a little air space betwen the insulation and metal walls. Still looking for ideas... ....

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sloancon
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16 North Carolina
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2006-01-08          122434

Sprayed on inulation lot higher here (NC)and less R-value. I'd use bats and make sure to install vapor barrier. T one eleven is about $25 a sheet (3/8) here. Sheetrock awful cheap but dings up easier. You could install metal four foot up (metal about $2.10 running foot by 3'). If we put rebar in the floor we have to put in a grounding rod and ground all the rebar if there's a chance of any live stock in the barn. Hope you put a vapor barrier down before pouring floor if not might want to seal floor good befor finishing. ....

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s chrand
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 77 Mid-Michigan
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2006-01-09          122453

My brother had his pole barn done with the spray foam last year. He loves it. He did say it was more expensive than the fiberglass. R-value is higher per inch of thickness if I remember correctly. It does offer some real benifits too. most important, it seals out drafts. It's also not effected by water if it gets wet, doesn't need a vapor barrier, and is supposed to deter mice that just love to burrow in fiberglass. For interior walls, he ran 2x4 purlins on the interior of the posts on 2ft centers, and covered it with some osb he found for cheap. I'd do some searching for a spray foam contractor.
David ....

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millers1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 94 Charles Town, WV
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2006-01-20          123079

I'll probably get an estimate for foam before making a decision.
Still wondering about the ceiling. The loft is 10' wide. Since the building is 30' wide, I need to put a ceiling up on either side of the loft - 10' wide each side. My building has engineered rafters 24" on center. I think weight of the ceiling is going to be an issue since there's no center beam. I'll have to put insulation on top of the ceiling.

So.. other than some thin plywood, what are my options? ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2006-01-20          123081

Calculating the true cost of spray foam insulation is difficult & deceiving.

You have to price the ENTIRE cost to get to a useable interior.

With somethinglike a pole barn, you have to look at the cost, both in labour & materials, to frame in the area between structural members, then insulating it (labour & material, and the vapour barrier as well.

When you take into consideration that you can spray directly onto a wide variety of surfaces, and that it also forms a vapour barrier, it changes the whole equation.

Especially with the cost of lumber & labour today.

Best of luck. ....

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MacDaddy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 95 Western NY
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2006-01-20          123098

I have very recently installed Spray Foam Insulation in my home. I have areas with cathederal celings, (like a barn) and it was the only way to get the required r-value in those areas. However, r-value is not a good measure of this material's performance. When applied, this stuff fills every nook and cranny solid. It forms around pipes wiring, and whatever you have within your walls. Its effective r-value is much closer to its "claimed" r-value than batt insulation because of the extremely tight seal. There are two basic types of Spray Foam; Open Cell (also called "half-pound" by installers, and Closed Cell which is closer to 2 lbs/sqft. Open cell provides about 3.5 r-value points per inch of application. Closed cell provides around 6.5 points/inch, and is obviously more expensive.

This stuff is not cheap however. In fact expect to spend abour 2x the cost of fiberglass. However, when you watch this material go in, you'll see that there is really no comparison for insulative effectiveness, and im very happy I used it.

Good luck with your barn!

Andy

....

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Finishing the interior - Pole Barn

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grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 677 central Maine
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2006-01-21          123154

Closed cell foam.
Yes, it is twice as much. But a good contractor or heating supply house should be able to calculate the payback.
At todays fuel prices it won't take long or use
so much in the future when it really goes up.
Air travels through fiberglass and the foam will give you a thermal barrier. They really are apples and oranges.
....

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millers1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 94 Charles Town, WV
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2006-01-21          123159

OK.. well *if* I decided to do the fiberglass bats, it seems the consensus that I'd need to put up vapor barrier. Since I'm talking about a metal pole barn, not a house, do I still need that? The vapor barrier would have to attach to the insides of the 'purlins' (horizontal 2x4's). Vapor barrier is held up with staples or ? ....

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grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 677 central Maine
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2006-01-21          123180

A 6 mil poly is usually stapled over the wall insulation.
Here in Maine the practice is to not poly the ceilings as to let the moisture out.
You may want to look into any potential moisture issues
you might create by putting fiberglass against the metal wall if that is what you are doing? It probaly should not touch?
I have found here in Maine I can hire it done(fiberglass)
for about the same price I can buy it for. Needless to say I let them do it. Worth checking on? It should also give you awarranty of some type?Good luck ....

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SG8NUC
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 579 g
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2006-01-21          123182

Grinder

Saw your pics how did you make the beams in your addition by the water. What length? what structrucal support do these beams add to the unit?
....

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lbrown59
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2006-02-27          125221

With spray foam you can install smaller heating - cooling units.
The savings on the installation cost of installing these appliances may off set the extra cost of foam over fiberglass. ....

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