Control flow valve: Other Tractor Brands  -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum and Review Control flow valve: Other Tractor Brands -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Other Tractor Brands Forum

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 03-02-2011, 07:40 Post: 177134
jebass



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 Control flow valve

I have a 2004 farmboss 284{jinma} I have just bought it use and I have read to take out the set screw before removing the needle valve.Well I cant get the set screw out it appears some one has broke it inside and I can feel the needle valve move and see it when i turm the set screw back and forth,any ideas out to remove set screw at this point.thxs






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 03-02-2011, 08:27 Post: 177135
greg_g



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 Control flow valve

There's no head per se. It's just a countersunk machine screw, removed with a flathead screwdriver. What's happened is that the screwdriver slot has been filled with paint. Once you clean that out, your should be able to back the thing out. If you try to force it with the valve, you'll end up breaking the knob - and maybe even breaking off the pointy end of the set screw.

//greg//






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 03-02-2011, 09:02 Post: 177137
jebass



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 Control flow valve

I understand all that,I said i cant get the set screw out at all.I can turn the screw but only so far it will not come out,when i turn the set screw i can see the valve wiggle back and forth.and the valve has been back off completly it wont pull out because i think the screw is bur keeping it from being able to remove it.thxs






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 03-02-2011, 09:11 Post: 177138
jebass



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 Control flow valve

I was wondering should I just try to force it out?what would break if I try this? and another thing to disconnect the clinder does the needle valve have to be remove first to remove the clinder from the valve body






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 03-02-2011, 09:41 Post: 177139
greg_g



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 Control flow valve

You will break the tip off the set screw, then there'll be nothing at all from preventing inherent vibration from backing the valve out completely. The eventual result will be a surprise gusher between your legs some day.

Be patient, use paint remover or even acetone to get down to bare metal. That will only get you down as far as the rust. At that point use penetrating oil. Once you get the thing out, throw it away. Get a M5 nut and a M5 hex head bolt about twice the length of the set screw. Thread the nut onto the bolt. Grind the bolt tip to a dull point like you saw on the set screw. Screw the bolt into the valve housing hole far enough to lock the valve in place w/o binding. Lock the bolt in place with the nut.

I'm not sure how your cylinder question fits in here though. There's no direct relationship between the valve and the cylinder. The valve merely regulates the return flow of hydraulic fluid to the sump. The more the valve is closed, the more resistance the fluid encounters returning to the sump. The slower the fluid return, the slower the cylinder. The slower the cylinder, the slower the rear hitch drops.

Do you have a specific reason for removing the cylinder?

//greg//






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 03-02-2011, 12:02 Post: 177143
jebass



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 Control flow valve

No I dont at this time but I did change the o rings in the piston because pick it up to high and damage them.So while i was at it i was going to change all the o rings,am just going though the whole tractor and changing all the fluids.but thxs for asking.






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 03-02-2011, 14:04 Post: 177144
jebass



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 Control flow valve

It seams that who ever had this tractor before I,has bent the set screw inside at least thats is what it feels like to me,so the set screw wont trun no farther to get it out,any ideas how to remove it now.thxs






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 03-02-2011, 14:27 Post: 177145
greg_g



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 Control flow valve

Well, it's a short little thing - probably no more than 3/8 inch long. So I don't see how it's possible to bend it. Most common damage is bustin' the tip off by grinding the valve against it, or tearing up the screwdriver slot fighting paint and/or rust. Or - perhaps a previous owner has already replaced it with something that didn't have M5 threads, and now it's cross-threaded in there.

Assuming it's original though, my bet is still on paint and rust. Have you considered trying an EZ-Out extractor?

//greg//






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