B7500 vs JD 4110: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review B7500 vs JD 4110: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 03-08-2003, 16:33 Post: 50774
BGScott
2003-03-08 16:33:08
Post: 50774
 B7500 vs JD 4110

Iíve shadowed this group for some time now and learned a lot. Now I need to make a decision. Iím looking between a JD 4110 with 410 loader and a Kubota B7500 with loader. Both are hydros. The quotes that Iíve received from local dealers here in Battle Ground, WA are $15,450 for the Deere and $15,000 for the Kubota (price includes the loader, calcium and a 3pt grooming mower for both).

The question now is which is the better tractor for the money? From what Iíve heard and seen, both dealers are excellent. The Kubota is cheaper, has more total horsepower and better financing and standard warrantee. The John Deere appears to have a more powerful loader and better laid-out deck and controls.

For background, I have 2.5 acres, 2 of it relatively flat, with 3/4 in trees here in SW Washington state. I picture using the tractor for landscaping and mowing. Iíve used a neighbors Massey and brush hog to get rid of 95% of the blackberries and other brush. Landscaping will consist of terracing the hill that my house sits on (weíve already built several retaining walls out of 45lb concrete blocks using nothing but back-power), creation of some drainage ditches and light grading of the rest of the property to change it from soggy pasture land to reasonably flat grassed area. Luckily I wonít have more than a few inches of snow here as opposed to all of you back east.

What are your opinions on which to choose and are these good prices

A couple implement questions too. I have a lawn tractor that I currently mow about 1 acre with. Is the 3pt. 60Ē finish mower going to be the right tool for the uneven pasture, or would you go with a MMM?

Iíve done some landscaping already with borrowed and rented tractors, using the bucket and a tiller. I havenít ever used a scrapper. Will I be able to grade and level what I want with a box scrapper, or should I get a tiller?

I look forward to your insights






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 03-08-2003, 20:41 Post: 50782
lapine



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

I live in Hillsboro, Oregon and have been looking for a tractor for about a year and looked hard at the b7500 you should check with Mark in Hillsboro kubota on TV highway he will im sure do a much better deal for you. I ended up buying the b7800 as its going on my central Oregon property where im retireing and I needed something a little larger over there. Im sure you could talk Mark into hauling it up to Battleground for you as it isnt that far. I actually bought mine from a friend of Marks in Redmond only because he is the local dealer in that area. I think the b7500 will do what you want






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 03-08-2003, 22:17 Post: 50787
jyoutz



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

You're basically asking which is better Ford or Chevy. Despite the small differences in specs, you're looking at models with nearly identical capabilities. I would go with what "feels" best and also the best dealer support. One real difference is the position control on the JD 3 point hitch. The B-7500 doesn't have that feature for some odd reason. Try using a 3 point implement with both tractors and see if the position control is enough of a difference for your uses to help you make the decision. For MY uses, I could'nt imagine not having position control.






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 03-08-2003, 22:17 Post: 50788
WillieH



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

I like orange! Seriously, From what I have seen since my first orange back in 1982, B7100 w/loader,several B5200's with loaders, and B1750 w/loader...each and every one of these units demand more money today than when I first bought them. The orange seems, at least the Bxxxx's, seem to retain their value and then some, much better than any other color. My own personal opinion, if your gonna invest in a tractor that you plan on having awhile, why not get one that virtually guarantees a fantastic return if and when the day comes that you wish to sell? So long as you maintain it, wash and wax every now and then...top dollar on your return!

I've had 3pt finish decks right along until I got the B1750.This one has a belly mount. It kind of depends on what else you have in the vicinity of where your cutting. Realize that for a belly mower, you are watching every turn your making, every mound your cresting, every ravine your crossing,etc. and really allowing the mower to turn within the confines of the turning radius of the tractor. With a 3pt deck, you always must remember that your swing will be farther out and potentially will...HEY!! Watch that tree!, You just swung your deck into your wifes flower garden!, Nice job! You swung that deck right into your 45lb. concrete retainer blocks! Now you need new blades, spindles...Get the idea? So long as you can remember the swing pattern and size, you should not have too many difficulties.

As far as the price...it sounds a litlle high, especially at this point in time. Recently, they all had "sales" and offered low financing etc. It did not go over as well as expected. If they really want to sell, they will deal with you and work with you.

As you contemplate the rear implement...tiller vs. box blade, I have a 50" 3pt tiller. When you drag any implement behind any tractor, key word drag,constant drag contact, your inducing a tremendous strain or load on the tractor both from an engine standpoint as well as a rear end /3pt standpoint. Then comes the strain of the weight of material being dragged. When a tiller is connected to your 3pt, if it is set up correctly, the tiller will offer virtually no resistance against the tractor, and infact will actaully yield a bit of a forward drive to assist the tractor traction. Besides this, The tractor engine and drive line will have little to no strain due to the fact that the tiller operates at a constant speed. the engine basically will be running uninterrupted/unchanged, causing little wear on your equipment. That does not mean that a rock or concrete chunk buried in the lawn won't case damage to your tines, but will eliminate most wear. If you consider a tiller, consider a slip clutch option. This costs abit more, however will slip when the tiller encounters a rock or whatever, and jams up, rather than taking out your tractor drive line.

Willie H.






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 03-08-2003, 23:03 Post: 50791
WillieH



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

Well I'm human ...I forgot to mention something that I think would help / assist alot of guys out there. BGScott, as you mentioned about the calcium, If you have your rears loaded, have the dealer install tire tubes in the rears before loading them. Why you ask, if you install tubes in the tires, then fill the tubes with calcium, the degradation of the wheel,i.e. the rot out from the calcium, won't happen. It has no effect on rubber. It will have a "eating-out" effect on steel and other metals. Though this action uaually is seen in about 10 to 15 years down the road, it's messy and very costly to repair. Why bother when you can have a couple of fifteen dollar tubes installed in your tires, and never have to worry. Tell your dealer that you want this done and why, and he'll see that your speaking with intelligence...he won't try to sell you a bridge anymore ! Maybe even drop the price abit.

Willie H.






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 03-09-2003, 02:03 Post: 50793
hardwood

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 B7500 vs JD 4110

We've had mid mount mowers for years on Deere Lawn and garden tractors, they were good machines, did an excellent job, but I allways dreaded taking them off to mount the tiller or for maintenence. My Wife still has her J D 345 with a MMM for front yard type mowing. I have a Land Pride 3 pt on the 4300 Deere for field border and road ditch mowing. both do a good job, but the ease of mounting a 3 pt. compared to a MMM is quite an item to me.






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 03-09-2003, 10:15 Post: 50811
DRankin



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

After fooling around with calcium and flat tires I have gone to wheel weights on both of my tractors.

Ever tried to muscle a 200# wheel onto an axle and get the bolt holes lined up?

Or better yet, try to pitch that 200# leaking tire into the back of the pick-up without the FEL to help you because the tractor is up on blocks?

Or how about the 3 hours out of your day it takes to fix it because you have to drive past 16 tire shops to get to the one that does calcium?

And then when you finally get home you find one rear tire weighs 60# less than the other because the high school kid who filled them didn't know his butt for a hole in the dirt?

And all this assumes that you are dealing with tires of the size that come on a 4110 or a 7500. If you have a 4210 or a L-something, just forget trying to haul those things around and call the guys with the truck and the crane.

And tell them to bring a new tube with them because the patches won't stick to to a tube that has calcium on it,
and go do something else until tomorrow or next Tuesday or whenever they can fit you in.......

Naah..... I'll take the wheel weights.






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 03-09-2003, 14:39 Post: 50820
WillieH



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

I admit that the wheels/tire assemblies are very heavy and almost immovable when loaded, and they seem even more so when there is a problem.

Thankfully, I'm not around where you live Mark. I know the various places that will aid in situations as you described without having personnel with chronic brain freezes. To drive around for three hours searching...find a telephone.

In the nearly forty years of having FEL's I think I tore one front tire and sprung a leak in one rear tire. The rear was the only tractor that I had, that had loaded tires, It figures I guess...Murphy's Law. I agree that the ultimate way to go is external weights. Shop around at flea markets and tag sales for old weight lifting equipment. Barbell weights make excellent wheel weights, and for the price at a tag sale, they're probably coated with plastic besides... no damage to your wheel's paint/finish. Check into it.

Willie H.






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 03-09-2003, 19:45 Post: 50846
DRankin



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 B7500 vs JD 4110

I knew where to go...... it just took three hours to get the tire off, drive the ten miles to the tire shop, wait for service, drive home and remount the tire.

As far as the used barbell weights, you are spot on. That is how I fixed up my JD 4100. I have two 50# plates bolted to each rear wheel and they seem to get more traction than a similar weight of calcium and water.

Kubota's wheel weights are downright cheap compared to Deere so the BX has 60# factory weights on each rear wheel.






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 03-10-2003, 14:11 Post: 50890
BGScott
2003-03-10 00:00:00
Post: 50890
 B7500 vs JD 4110

Thanks for the responses. What do any of you feel would be a reasonable price for either of these tractors and accessories (Hydro, FEL, 60" finish mower, calcium or wheel weights)?






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