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 02-19-2003, 06:30 Post: 49498
AlbionKen



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

I need some advice. You may recall that I recently took delivery of a J.D. 4610 with a the J.D. (Frontier?) 7' rear blade. The primary purpose of the blade is dirt/gravel scraping and levelling in the summer and snow plowing in the winter. I used it last weekend to plow the 800' driveway and, to make a long story short, already bent one side of the blade about six inches out of alignment. I was moving down hill and caught one bottom corner of the blade on some frozen large gravel. It was bent before I could react. What is the best way to straighten it back out? Also, I'm surprised it bent so easily. It makes me think I should have gotten a beefier one, if available. Thoughts, please.






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 02-19-2003, 06:35 Post: 49499
Misenplace

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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

Ken, just curious, which blade did you get ? I see on the brochure they have standrd, medium and heavy duty blades.






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 02-19-2003, 08:43 Post: 49511
DRankin



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

It shouldn't bend that easily, especially on tasks it is advertised that it is designed to do.

How about a warranty claim?

Tell them if it bends on snow, what is going to happen if you use it on dirt?

Did you tweak the blade? Or the mounting apparatus?






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 02-19-2003, 09:45 Post: 49512
MRETHICS



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

Your blade should still be under the mfgr wrty. A new moldboard is the best fix.

I do wonder which model blade you have. There is a big difference.

There is a big misconception in the world on this subject. It seams people feel that moveing snow is easier than moving dirt. In theory, I guess this is correct. In reality, frozen ground will do more damage to a blade than the roughest dirt work.

Snow also has a way of hideing imovable objects such as parking bumpers and other things such as frozen stones too numourous to mention. Rear blades have no spring protection for these objects like front snowblades. However, depending on the Frontier model you have, skid shoes may be available which will keep the blade above such objects in the frozen earth.

As an enlightened salesman, I cringe when folks want tp purchase a rear blade to remove snow for all of the above reasons. I cringe because I simply can't seem to get across to them the error in their ways. Who ever sold you that blade, should have warned you of what could happen. My guess is ...... he did not. This compact market is loaded with salesman with no practical expeirience.

There is no college degree for practical expeirience, and it holds little weight in our society. Just another thing in this world I would that makes life so interesting.






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 02-19-2003, 09:50 Post: 49513
Billy

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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

The 4610 weighs in right at 3,500 lbs, tractor alone. If you apply the force plus the momentum of the 3,500 lbs to a small area (corner of the blade), I could see it happening.

If it warped the blade, it would be extremely hard to straighten (if not impossible). If it just bent the corner, you might can heat it and beat it back.

Billy






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 02-20-2003, 06:32 Post: 49590
AlbionKen



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

Sorry for the delay in answering your questions, but I needed to get the paperwork to be sure. The blade is a Frontier 1084 "standard duty" rear blade which was delivered with the tractor. The salesman knew what I wanted to use the tractor/blade for and said "this will do it for you". I should note that the blade would not rotate when it was first delivered and I took it back for them to "loosen up". It bent about six inches from the center pivot bracket (sorry, don't know the correct term) and the end is between six and eight inches out of straight, with a bit of twist, as well. I had the blade angled to that side while plowing and had the hitch pin in. I have made no adjustments to the blade myself. I'll make a run at the dealer, but even if they agree to fix/replace I'm concerned that this model rear blade is just too flimsy for the size tractor - hard to believe since it is a "compact tractor". How can it be expected to scrape ditches, level gravel, etc. if it bends this easily? Thanks for all your comments. I'll keep you posted. By the way, still LOVE the 4610!






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 02-20-2003, 07:54 Post: 49600
Smahler



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

I have been backblading snow for quite a while, and while it is not the sexiest way to remove snow, it has worked for years and years. My hunch is that you were moving in your higher range gear, making it very easy to apply whopping forces quickly. For this reason, I keep the speed down considerably when backblading. For one thing, the entire design of your 3ph is really intended for pulling, not pushing. Thus the blade is the same. I will be interested to see if the dealer can do anything for you. It is also important to note that the Frontier line of implements is supposed to be Deere's value line, hence lighter quality. In the future, I think you will be fine to slow down a bit to avoid other snafus.






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 02-20-2003, 10:01 Post: 49613
harvey



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

Ken

You can pull the blade part off and take to a heavy duty garage with a BIG hyd press and get it back into reasonable shape, I would not heat it, then bolt a heavy 3" angle iron across the back of it.

I beat the living snot out of hard snow banks with my rear scraper blade. Have 15 hours of that, last couple of days, moving this storm getting set for next one neck is sore. My pin holes are worn pretty bad and I need to weld in new bushings this year. But mine is 12 years old.

I would tell the salesman that for YEARS we used them to scrape alleys in the barn. They were designed to do that! Then as barns and equipment were damaged, from catching curbs and broken concrete, we (humans) got smarter. Bolted on big cut tires. Then we got skid steers...

I have caught buried stuff going fwd also, one corner dug in ditching. The same thing is going to happen either direction. Slow is the key!

Someone else said the 4600 is a lot of tractor, (in the compact class Cat1) they are right. Check the stuff designd for cat2. Go to a couple of auctions and look at the shape some of the used equipment is in...I think you would be very suprised and think your bend is not so bad after all.

I would also tell you the rear blade is a lot cheaper than a loader arm so that is where I tend to focus the abuse. Yes I push back and stack with loader also. But almost all of the plowing is with the scraper blade angled. Also the light blade bending may have saved your castings on the tractor where the 3ph arms are attached. Either fwd or backwards those casting will break!

Yup! I did manage to bend a lift arm moving a rock that weighs more than my 4400 tractor. It took my old Farmall M Pulling and 4400 pushing to move it out of the woods to its resting spot in the front yard.

If you use your tractor things are gonna get bent or broken now and then. Just a fact of life. I do not care how careful you are sooner or later you will scratch the paint.

The other thing that crosses my mind is get a new blade for your dirt work and stick this one on in the winter and add some metal here and there to help move snow.

Bends, dings and dents suck!

Harvey






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 02-20-2003, 10:42 Post: 49621
AlbionKen



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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

Thanks for your comments. One clarification - I was in "A" range with 4WD on, but the ematch off. The grade where "the incident" occurred is about 30 degrees downhill. While bending the blade ticked me off, what really made me mad was that I had only had it for 3 weeks! Assuming the dealer says tough luck, I really like the idea of souping this one up for snow (after a rebend) and buying a high end blade for dirt/gravel. This dealer only carries Frontier attachments. I think I'll go look at Land Pride at another dealer. Thanks for comments.






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 02-21-2003, 05:18 Post: 49677
TomG

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 Bent Rear Scraper Blade

The comment about looking for CAT II implements for bigger compacts might be thought about. A small mid-price CAT II implement might be as heavy duty as an upper-end CAT I implement and cost less. If the compact 3ph will carry the weight, the lower link arms spread wide enough and the top link is the right length, it should work just fine. Lower link pins on many implements can be replaced with CAT I pins, and bushings are available to size CAT II top-link loops down to CAT I pins.

If there isn't much price advantage, at least the idea might offer a wider selection of used implements to owners of large compacts. There might be an issue of different lower-link arms with some implements, and the CAT II PTO shaft connections would be different than for CAT I.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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