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 07-17-2002, 12:27 Post: 40458
Captain B



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 Front weights

I note a lot of discussion on rear counterweights. I have a related issue. I have a JD990 with six 40lb. Quik-Tatch weights mounted on the front. I cut a large, steep hill (maybe 8 acres). The front end comes lose cutting up hill and threatens to buck up, particularly on turns. Deere has an auxiliary front weight bar which apparently mounts 40lb. or 70 lb. Quik-Tatch weights. Anyone have experience with this added front weight bar and the 70lbs weights? Are the 70lb weights too much for quick changes to mount the FEL? Any suggestions for a home-designed rig that mounts on the front?






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 07-17-2002, 12:35 Post: 40459
Art White



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 Front weights

Have you tried mowing up these hills with the loader on? I often tell customers to run with the loader when on steep grades rather than purchase the weights.






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 07-17-2002, 15:33 Post: 40463
Jim on Timberridge



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 Front weights

I mow now with a JD4700 and LP84" mower (heavy). Used to mow with a JD1070 and 72" JD272 mower. Or a JD516 cutter. On hills, including going uphill.
Always used 8-40# suitcases in front, but it still got loose in front going uphill. Now I'm using 4-70#'s and 4-40#'s, and haven't had the light frontend problem.
The 70#'s aren't too bad to drop on the front, and they fit fine w/o interfering with anything.
Despite postings of cost being $1/lb, many dealer networks buy and freight-in bulk shipments of both size suitcases. I've found them at $20/40lb, and bought the 70# at $48. A good dealer will take the 40# size in on trade.
Mowing with FEL isn't exactly the most desireable setup. You'd be sitting there with long "outriggers" front-to-back, so turning and mowing around corners, trees, etc, would be challenging. Cuts off view of the grass ahead, too.
jim






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 07-17-2002, 22:34 Post: 40473
BCMarriott
2002-07-17 00:00:00
Post: 40473
 Front weights

I also have a 990. I recently purchased an MX-6 cutter and had the same balance problems with only the 6-42 pound front weights. I have R4 tires all around, and my solution was to have the front tires filled with foam. This added 130 pounds/tire and eliminated the balance problem completely. The added benefit is the front tires are now puncture proof. I had it done to a previous tractor and was happy with the result. I can't tell any difference with the ride, so its not like they are so hard you will be bounced around any more than normal.






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 07-18-2002, 06:58 Post: 40481
Captain B



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 Front weights

The replies have been very helpful. BC--I have loaded rear R4s also. Never considered loading with foam. It appears to be about even between 6x42# suitcase weights and two loaded fronts. Loaded would be easier when switching to the FEL. I'm in New Hampshire. Don't know who does foam up here. What are the advantages/disadvantages of foam vs. calcium cloride? What did it cost you for foam in both tires?






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 07-18-2002, 20:03 Post: 40497
BCMarriott
2002-07-18 00:00:00
Post: 40497
 Front weights

I considered calcium chloride, which was cheaper by far. Only problem is that the weight was about 80 pounds per tire, plus I have had leak/rust issues with previous tractors. I also have many locus (spelling?) trees with thorns, and wanted to kill two birds with one stone. Price here was around $1/pound including new tubes. I have a front end loader too, so I was concerned about ease of on/off. I believe there is something called Rim-Guard out there that is made from beet pulp. It won't freeze or rust your rims, but no one in this area carried it. It is also lighter than foam. Hope this helps....






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 07-19-2002, 05:23 Post: 40501
TomG

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 Front weights

As I understand, foam filled tires have to be cut off when a tire needs to be changed. Although that sounds difficult, it may not be too bad.

I've heard some people say that foam filled tires give rough rides, but BC says his ride is normal. I wonder if the people who mention rough rides are talking about roading their tractors at max speed and if they might find their rides just fine at normal working speeds. I drive my tractor about 10-miles at max speed along a highway a couple times a year on my turf tires. The ride is rough enough in places that I have to cut throttle to maintain control and steering. A rougher ride wouldn't be good for me, but roading the tractor probably isn't much of an issue for many owners.

I question just came to mind. I wonder how the foam is installed. I'm thinking that there must be some way of truing the tires. Any out-of-round probably is permanent once the foam sets-up. Again, out-of-roundness probably is mostly an issue when roading a tractor. For a couple of dumb reasons I left my loader and heavy 3ph forklift up for several days in cool weather. I had to take the tractor a mile along the highway and the ride was like a horse with a bad gait for the first half. I didnít notice the problem until I got up to speed.






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 07-19-2002, 10:28 Post: 40514
Murf



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 Front weights

Tom, tire foam is an excellent product, IF, like anything else, it is installed and used correctly. I have all of our tires, especially on the 'heavy' equipment, foam-filled. The product we use is called 'Tyre-fill' I believe. The dealer calls it a 'transitory' type of foam, by that I mean it is pumped into the tire as a liquid, then a catylist is added to cause it to solidify. If removal is required a further agent can be added causing the foam to revert to a liquid to be pumped out, it is not however re-usable, but at least the tire is able to be dismounted. The product must be pumped in with the tire lying flat on the ground with the valve facing up to allow the air to bleed out. The product never really goes solid, it just basically gets to a jelly consistency and if nobody told you it was in the tires I doubt you would be able to tell from the ride quality (or lack thereof). Best of luck.






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 07-19-2002, 13:52 Post: 40517
Frank R Taylor



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 Front weights

I do like what Art recommends, I mow my steep slopes with the FEL mounted.

It would scare me to death to have the front end get light or buck. I have been known to throw a couple of 50# sacks in the FEL too. When you have that much weight low and out in front of the tractor it is a lot safer climbing stright up slopes than with just the equivalent amount of weights attached.

When the loader is kept low, as it should be, there is no problem with seeing ahead although you do have to change your technique mowing up to fences and around trees but it's no real hardship and really doesn't take any longer.

I drove a tractor with true foam filled tires (not the antipuncture gel stuff) and the ride was a little harder than normal but when you ride a tractor with R4's, the ride is pretty hard to begin with. I can't remember exactly what the cost to have them filled was but it was high. If you have a problem with punctures and hate changing tires or can't afford the downtime, it might be worth it but surely not just for stability - I would have thought that weights would have been a lot cheaper.






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 07-19-2002, 22:40 Post: 40522
Chris R in IN



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 Front weights

When I was shopping for a Bush Hog. The dealer knew I had alot of steep hills to mow. He suggested that I not use the top link. It works fine.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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