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 00-00-0000, 00:00 Post: 15035
droz



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 3 point hitches

I just got my first 3 point implement for my JD 4100, a tiller. I have never hooked one up before. How important is it to have things level? The manual that came with it was very poor on all points, including lubrication. There is also very little space between the lower arms and the tires. How much should there be? I didn't find it very easy to hook it up either but again, I don't know what to expect. Any advice would be appreciated. By the way, it worked extremely well and saved me hours of work.






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 04-24-2000, 06:13 Post: 15039
TomG

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 3 point hitches

A time or two and you'll get the hang of it. I don't try to do all the positioning for mounting a 3ph implement with the tractor. When you get the hang of it you can back up and drop at least one of the lower links right into the slot and make the pin. Often the other lower link can be lifted and set into the other slot (one lower arm at a time can be raised by hand). The side leveler is used to line up the other pin. The anti-sway chains can be loosened it the arms won't spread wide enough.

You may not be able to make the second pin if the implement isn't square to the tractor. It's easier to line up the pin by moving the implement than by moving the tractor. I have a 5' steel pry bar for levering implements around.

Then, it's just a matter of lifting up the back of an implement (if necessary) enough to make the top pin. I set my implements on blocks, which keeps the hitch points in about the right position for going back on the tractor and also makes levering them around easier. Just remember that things can shift or drop until all three pins are in. Keep your fingers from 'between things' and toes from 'under things.' Don't climb between the tractor and implement. Good idea even when the pins are in.

In terms of leveling: It's important, but just judging by eye should be good enough. Keep in mind that you don't always want to be level. For example: Tilting a blade down on one side can be used to build a crown on a driveway. Tilting a rotary cutter back increases the amount of mulching done. Tilting a snow blower up keeps it from picking up gravel.







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 04-24-2000, 13:37 Post: 15056
MichaelSnyder

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 3 point hitches

Unfortunately, the task can be cumbersome at times to say the least. In addition to Tom's comments, you may consider purchasing one of the many different "quick" hitch systems, but I don't consider them inexpensive. Or simply buy 4 heavy duty casters and a few pieces of wood to make a wheeled platform or dolly. This setup also comes in handy to move implements around in the garage without getting the tractor involved.
Make sure you chech the weight rating on the casters before you buy, and don't go "cheap" or "light" on the frame. A few pieces of metal and a welder might make a nicer dolly if you have access to such items. As for the way the 4100's 3pt is setup.....I wish I had a better answer for you. Having been in this situation myself a few times, All I can tell you is to center the implement & tighten the links to remove any play which will allow the implement to sway, resulting in tire rub. I used a landscape rake in which I couldn't raise the 3pt beyond the 8 or 9 setting. I used to have the R4 tires/rims, and I swapped em side to side to give me a wider stance, which also gave more room out back. Now I have the turfs and haven't done this because my wheel weights won't fit inside the rims when they are run inside out.






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 04-24-2000, 18:03 Post: 15060
Toddh



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 3 point hitches

I have a similar question about attaching my 513 rotary cutter to my 790. I've been advised not to let the weight of the cutter "ride on the hydraulics" because of wear on the bushings. The way I read the (inadequate) owners manual is that to properly hook the thing up it *must* ride on the hydraulics or it can't float over the ground properly. Am I missing something obvious?


Also, does anyone know how low you can get the back of the cutter to the ground and still be able to mow without scalping every little bump?


Also, I raised the cutter up too high (doh!) and whacked the chain guard angle iron attachment on my rear tires and bent the lip up. I'm guessing I'm not the first person to do this, so I was wondering if anyone had experience just bending the lip back down with something like a big pipe wrench. I'm a little worried about bending the mower top or bending an attachment bolt or something else that I'll wish I had thought of first, but I don't really want to take off the chain guard and fight with trying to get enough leverage to get the angle back to the proper 90 degrees (it's about 45 degrees now).






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 04-24-2000, 22:36 Post: 15076
droz



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 3 point hitches

Thanks for all the information. At least I don't feel like I was missing something obvious; I guess it isn't all that easy to hook up. But, that brings up the other question now of whether or not it is OK to use the hydraulics to "ride" the implement slightly above the ground or should it always be dropped to let the implement support itself?






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 04-24-2000, 23:45 Post: 15077
Jack in IL



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 3 point hitches

I'm not sure where you picked up the notion that the three point hitch shouldn't be used to totally or partially support an implement. For many applications, there is always a vertical "load" on the hitch when the implement is working properly. In the case of the rotary cutter where you want to maintain an approximately level cut, the most satisfactory approach is to use "check chains." These are simple chains that connect to the tractor at the point where the top link connects and then down to the draft pins on the lower links. They limit how far down the draft links can go but do not limit how high up they can go. You set the check chains to determine the height of cut on the front of the cutter which should be slightly lower than the rear of the cutter. On a rotary cutter, the top link always needs some float. On a 513 cutter it is provided by a short secondary link on the cutter itself. You adjust the tractor top link so that when the tail wheel is running on the ground and the check chains hold the front at your specified height, the top link should droop downward a bit. As you drive over hill and swale the cutter will then follow the ground contours. You can get check chains at many dealers. Can also try www.easternfarmequipment.






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 04-25-2000, 11:01 Post: 15082
Paul Johnson



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 3 point hitches

Im also interested in the check chains as my cutter doesn't have them. I tried the link you provided www.easternfarmequipment. even added the .com and it couldn't be located. would you please recheck this address, my local supply store has never heard of them. Just my luck. Thanks for your input






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 04-26-2000, 09:00 Post: 15123
Ken



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 3 point hitches

Paul not sure this is it but try www.ssbtractor.comm for adjust chains Ken






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 04-26-2000, 17:39 Post: 15126
Wen



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 3 point hitches

I had to use check chains with my old Massey 245, but the position control for the Kubota does not need or require check chains. The only exception I can think of is if you have a model that does not have position control (just up or down) or the 3 point is really wore out.

Check chains only cost about $30, but I would not use them unless you really need to.






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 04-27-2000, 12:44 Post: 15135
MichaelSnyder

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 3 point hitches

Droz,
I'm not sure what you mean?? Something like a Ballast box or broadcast spreader always requires full support. When using something like a rear blade...you may or maynot want 100% of the weight to be placed on the implement. Many times I've adjusted the 3pt level to only allow the blade to lightly scrape the surface. Other times I want it to dig in. Not sure this answers your question.....






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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