Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer: Jinma Farmpro Agracat  -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer: Jinma Farmpro Agracat -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

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 06-22-2013, 14:22 Post: 187443
Charbo2012



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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

I bought a used Jinma 200 two cylinder ty290. The oil strainer had come apart one year ago and the owner did not notice it the oil pressure went over 200psi he did not know they chunk of tin was trashing around the engine and he had to have the engine overhauled. So one year later it happen again. This time he saw the oil pressure shoot up to 200 psi and he shut it down with end seconds. It only showed 198 total hours it is a 2004 year model. I took a chance and bought it he cranked it over and it started he shut it down. The screw on oil filter was leaking. Upon my inspection the oil strainer was smashed but no damage to the crank or cylinder walls. I blew out the oil passages and found the oil filter housing check ball full of crap material.. I cleaned it up and installed everything without the oil strainer and it runs great, ran for 30 min drove it around a little then drain the oil and check for contamination none found I got a new strainer but not sure if I should install it. After two that have failed and I am not sure if really needs one. Well maybe a better aftermarket one. Any suggestions.
Sorry this is so long. Bottom line this tractor had two fail already. Do I really need it. The current oil pressure is 58 psi






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 06-23-2013, 08:28 Post: 187447
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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

I think the more pertinent question is: where is all the "crap material" coming from (?). Given this recurring issue, why - after removing the screen - would you want that stuff sucked up into the oil passages?

58 psi - if accurate - is still a bit high, especially if that's at idle. Perhaps the wrong viscosity engine oil is compounding the issue (15W40 is spec). I've owned four different Chinese tractors with 3 different engines. At operating temperature with 15W40, they all operated pretty consistently at 7-12 psi at hot idle, and between 30 and 40 at PTO operating speed

//greg//






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 06-24-2013, 06:27 Post: 187460
Charbo2012



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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

I live in Alaska and currently using 10W30.
Now as far as the crap material I found in the oil filter housing was the material from the failed strainer. I have ran the engine and drove the tractor around then drained the oil and no material or metal particles in oil.
The question is why did this tractor have two oil strainers fail with end a year. Could it be the oil viscosity 10W30 due to the cold weather here.
Has any one had the oil strainer fall apart on a 2 cylinder TY290.
That's why I am reluctant to install another one if they are inferior part. I got the new one and it looks flimsy at the least. So what happens when it fails fall apart it gets mashed to bits and some of the crap gets sucked in and causes the oil filter and housing to get pluged up. I have some pic's to post later on.
Thank you






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 06-25-2013, 09:01 Post: 187489
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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

Water in the oil can rust the suction screen, which subsequently decomposes in place. And besides "wet" oil (which settles to the bottom of the sump), the WRONG oil will cause problems. I don't know off the top of my head of any 10W30 that's diesel-rated. Typically diesel rated is a straight 30W or the more commonly used 15W40. The way you tell the difference is the API classification on the label; for gasoline the code will start with the letter S, for diesel the letter C (think compression ignition).

A big difference between C- and S- classified engine oils is an additive that holds diesel soot in suspension. Soot is a natural byproduct of diesel compression ignition. S-class oil - failing to hold the soot in suspension - permits it to settle to the bottom of the sump and create a sediment layer. Over time this crud turns to sludge, and will get thick enough to clog the screen. Given that the pump is gear driven, the weakest link then is the screen itself. And if it's rusty in the first place, the screen will self-destruct just that much faster.

Don't be afraid to install a 3rd one, but make sure this time it's on a clean engine. This will cost you a few quarts of oil, but perform a thorough engine flush. Drain, pull the pan, remove the old strainer, replace the pan, refill to the proper level with fresh oil PLUS an engine cleaner additive. This isn't an endorsement, but the link below will give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Then drain and refill with a C-class engine oil. Even in Alaska, I recommend 15W40. I'd also strongly recommend a pan heater like this: http://www.wolverineheater.com/category-s/1818.htm

//greg//






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 06-27-2013, 04:18 Post: 187520
Charbo2012



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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

Ok good info, thanks, I will change and flush the system, the oil was what the previous owner had and used. It make more seance to use a oil like 15w40. With API or diesel rating






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 06-28-2013, 01:01 Post: 187524
Charbo2012



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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

Hello I have one more question, some spec's say use hydraulic oil in rear end and gear boxes I always used gear oil. Should I be using 85W90 or is hydraulic oil AW32 ok as well.
Thank you for your help
Charles






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 06-28-2013, 04:34 Post: 187525
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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

Universal tractor fluid (UTF) is only appropriate for common sump tractors. It's also sometimes called trans-hydraulic fluid (THF). It's used where both gear trains and hydraulics share a common fluid.

Your JM200 is dual sump tractor, requiring gear oil in the transmission and both differentials - and hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic system. 80W90 is indeed appropriate for gear boxes and differentials, although in Alaska you might want to consider a synthetic 75W90. AW32 (or ISO32) is appropriate for the hydraulics, although in Alaska you might want to consider something thinner. Hydraulic fluids from ISO22 down to ISO5 are progressively thinner than ISO32. Don't know much about them yet, but multi-viscosity hydraulic fluids are available now as well.

//greg//






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 07-14-2013, 07:06 Post: 187631
Charbo2012



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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

Thank you Greg. You have been very helpful.
I also had a problem with my 3pt lift and I check the O rings and wiper seals but they where all good. I had to turn the valve a few turns counterclockwise before it started to work. It shows a knob in the parts list but I do not have the knob. If I turn the plunger valve all the way clockwise the 3pt lift stops working. Is this normal. The valve is located just aft of the shifter on the top fwd part of the piston housing for the 3 pt lift.
Any input will be helpful. I order manuals for my Jinma 200 on the 7th of June from Manuals.us but still have not got them. I keep email to them but no reply, I think they ripped me off. No phone number to call them.






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 07-14-2013, 07:47 Post: 187632
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 Jinma 200 with TY290 engine oil strainer

On some models with a single rear remote, that flow control valve doubles as a diverter valve. If you have a fitting that comes out of the left side of the sump and makes a 90 degree turn rearward, that's for a single remote. Its primary function is for dump trailers; hence a single line. Pump pressure lifts the trailer bed, gravity lowers the bed and at the same time pushes the fluid back to the sump through the same pipe. Others have a separate diverter; a hex head control valve on the left side of the sump. Sounds like yours may be the former. And you can one or the other, but not both at the same time. Turn it one way and you have variable flow control, turn it the other way and all flow is diverted from to the remote.

//greg//






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

Thread 187443 Filter by Poster:
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