just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help: Jinma Farmpro Agracat  -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum and Review just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help: Jinma Farmpro Agracat -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

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 09-08-2010, 15:36 Post: 173854
pickinpough



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

2003 farmpro 2425, I have some issues and would like advice on several issues. I will only ask about three right now. The three point arms are not level. The dealer told me that while facing the rear of the tractor the right arm is slightly higher than the left, he said that to level the lift to use the what I would call turn buckles. I am fairly certain the arms are mounted on one shaft and at each end the shaft is splinded. He told me that the arms have not been pulled. He did say he replaced the "o" rings in the three point. I can understand him not having to remove the arms and shaft to do this. he also told me that another farm pro tractor he has, the right arm is slightly higher than the left. My question is, is this the way the arms are on these tractors?

One other question, he told me the hydraulics and the transmission share the same sump, but I have two different dip sticks? Do they?

Next is the hour meter. The dealer split the tractor to replace the clutch. He dismounted the fuse box and disconnected wiring and pulled it back. They told me that the tractor only had 370 hours on it but the hour meter and tach doesn't work. I checked both sides of the fuses on the fuse box and have power. The top side of the fuse box has fuses but no power or wiring. I can only assume that these are for other add ons. I checked the wiring from the flywheel sensor to the hour/tach meter it all feels ok but have not ohm'd them out. I did ohm the sensor but all my tests show open but I am not sure what I am looking for. I figured the wires going to the sensor should show some resistance since the sensor gets an very small induced voltage when the permanent magnet passes in front of it but is showed open. I pulled the sensor and looked for damage like it might have hit the flywheel but it looks good. I read on the forum to set this by turning it till it stops and backing it out 1/3 turn. I have other issues with the tractor but would like help with resolving these. I am sorry for all of this information but I am very aggressive when it comes to fixing stuff and maintaining it.






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 09-08-2010, 18:43 Post: 173864
greg_g



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

1. Which arms are not level; upper or lower?
2. he was wrong, the tractor has separate sumps for hydraulics (behind/beneath the seat) and gear oil (on the transmission ahead of the seat).
3. The hour meter is slaved off the tach. Get the tach working, and the hour meter will likely follow. Given that the wiring harness was pulled when the tractor was split, I'd say the issue is electrical. Example; I just noticed yesterday that the tach and hour meter on my 2006 TS354C (Y485 engine) go dead when the headlights are turned on.

//greg//






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 09-08-2010, 18:57 Post: 173865
richwaugh

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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

If the lower TPH arms are not level that's nothing more than the "turnbuckle" adjustment. I frequently adjust mine out of level for using the grader box or blade, and re-level them for the mower. If it is the upper arms that are not level, you may have an issue there, but I can't give any advice about that - never had my lift box apart (yet).

The tranny and the hydraulics are different sumps. They also should use different fluid. 85W90 (85W140 in hot climates) for the transmission and AW32 (AW46 in hot climates) hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics. I recommend using the right fluid for the job, not trying to make do with UTF or anything like that. My opinion only.

I'd guess when the tractor was split something didn't get connected back up right, most likely culprit will be a ground connection somewhere. No other choice but to follow the wiring diagram and trace everything out with your ohmmeter. If you're getting proper voltage at the tach terminals then you *may* have a bad tach. No tach = no hour meter, too. Some hour meters aren't too accurate because they're part of the tach form what I hear, though mine seems to be close.

Good luck with it all!

Rich






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 09-08-2010, 19:29 Post: 173867
pickinpough



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

Thanks guys, it is the upper 3 point control arms that are off. The right sligtly hire than the left. I am glad to here about the 2 sumps. The dealer told me that he put hydraulic fluid in both. but when I checked the trans, nothing on the stick. I used a welding rod and found it was down about 2-3 inches from the stick. It smelled like gear oil so I added about 4 qaurts of GL-5 gear oil. I am still purplexed over the lift arms. When I get home I will remove my pallet fork attachemnt and make sure both arms work. If they are not suppose to be this way, can it be as simple as moving one arm on the spline shaft? Which arm would it be? Thanks Mike






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 09-08-2010, 19:38 Post: 173868
pickinpough



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

I forgot to mention that I did get a wiring schematic today from the dealer. I am going to pull the hood and dash and start ringing it out. Who would you suggest getting parts for my tractor?

Thanks Mike






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 09-08-2010, 22:37 Post: 173873
richwaugh

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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

Mike,

That year Farm Pro was made by Jinma, I believe, so Affordable Tractor Sales in Texas would probably be your best bet for parts. They have probably the most complete stock of Jinma parts in the US. They'd also be a good source of information - the owner, Tommy Laskowski, is very knowledgeable on Jinma tractors and very willing to share his knowledge.

There are four (4) manuals for every Jinma tractor - the tractor owner's manual, the tractor parts manual, the engine owner's manual and the engine parts manual. You really need all four if you don't have them. Be advised that they aren't too great and often are not updated to reflect the current state of affairs, but they're all there is.

Revisiting your lift arms - do you have a figure for how out of level they are? Either in degrees of rotation or in fractions of an inch above or below each other? What you are concerned about may be nothing significant or it may be a precursor to a problem. I would think that if the difference is no more than, say, half an inch, it wouldn't be worth worrying about. Adjust the lift link to compensate and be done with it. The parts book for the tractor would show you how the lift arms are attached so you could tell about "adjusting" them. I don't have my parts manual for my Jinma right at hand so I can't check to see how the lift arms are attached right now. Also set the lift lever stop to prevent over-extending the lift cylinder while you're at it.

If the lift cylinder is "hyperextended", so to speak, it can damage the seals and necessitate a repair. There is an adjustable stop on the TPH lever that needs to be set so as to prevent that from happening. There is a rumor that there is an internal stop, but I've heard of too many lift cylinders being damaged to trust that rumor much. Check that stop bolt on the TPH lever.

Before I tried to adjust the arms themselves I'd want to talk to either Tommy at Afforable or Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply to find out how it should be done. Since there is a potential for causing damage internally if you get something wrong, better to be safe.

Rich






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 09-08-2010, 23:50 Post: 173876
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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

Quote:
Originally Posted by pickinpough | view 173867
Thanks guys, it is the upper 3 point control arms that are off. The right sligtly hire than the left. I am glad to here about the 2 sumps. The dealer told me that he put hydraulic fluid in both. but when I checked the trans, nothing on the stick. I used a welding rod and found it was down about 2-3 inches from the stick. It smelled like gear oil so I added about 4 qaurts of GL-5 gear oil. I am still purplexed over the lift arms. When I get home I will remove my pallet fork attachemnt and make sure both arms work. If they are not suppose to be this way, can it be as simple as moving one arm on the spline shaft? Which arm would it be? Thanks Mike


What kind of "dealer" did you buy from anyway? The condition he sold it in does not sound reassuring. There should be a dipstick attached to the transmission fill cap. I sure hope it's not rattling around in the tranny somewhere.

Many GL5s have an EP additive that's corrosive to the (admittedly few) brass/bronze/copper components of the drive train (mostly sleeves and bushings). Conventional wisdom is that only gear oils that are approved for yellow metals should be used. I've found that Coastal brand gear oil (sold by some of the big auto parts chain stores like Advance Auto) has a GL4/5 that's approved for use with yellow metals.

The upper lift arms have no fine adjustment. If they're within an inch of each other at the tips, that's about as good as it will get. You can try to remove the lower of the two and reposition it on its spline, but that's a gross adjustment. It's likely you won't like the results. As Rich said, the usual remedy is to not worry about the uppers, and just adjust the vertical links to make sure the lowers are level with each other.

FarmPro parts link is below. Otherwise, any (reputable) Jinma dealer.

//greg//






Link:   FarmPro Parts 

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 09-09-2010, 04:30 Post: 173877
pickinpough



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

Thanks Rich and Greg, I will contact Texas and make sure I get the right information, and order the manuals. As far as the dealer it was Legacy Tractors in Fort Collins Colorado. The Trans did have a dipstick but nothing showed on it between the hash marks so I used a welding rod to see if any fliud was in it. It was between 2-3 inches below the trans dipstick. I added enough to get it between the haah marks. I am going to drain it and get the right oil as Greg mentioned. I really appreciate this guys, I went from an 8n to this so its a big learning curve. As far as the Dealer I really don't know what to say. He said he when through the whole tractor and it was ready to go. So I went down and loaded it up. These issues come up ofcourse when I started to use it. I could take it back but I like it, and it looks like to me if its taken care of properly it should be a great little work horse. The dealer did offer to take it back and make the repairs but my gut says no. At 50 years old you would think I would know better than to buy something this way but when a man says something and you have no reason to doubt it you take him at his word. That old fashioned way of thinking has cost me more than once but I still never change. I guess I am used to a different type of atmosphere. Thanks again Mike






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 09-09-2010, 07:45 Post: 173881
greg_g



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

Yeah, the old Ford is a common sump that takes universal-type tractor fluid (UTF). FarmPro/Jinma is of the separate sump design. UTF is too thick for the Chinese hydraulics in the winter, too thin for the Chinese gears in the summer. When you buy AW32, double check the container so you don't mistakenly buy AW32 machine oil. Wrong stuff, plus it will foam up on ya. Don't be afraid to fill the gear boxes right to the top hash mark. Gear oil goes in the tranny, rear diff, creeper (or shuttle) box, front diff, both front drive units. Hydraulic fluid obviously goes in the hydraulics. Some variants have a 2nd pump for steering, and that reservoir takes AW32 as well.

Engine takes 15W40 engine oil. I use compressor oil in my injection pumps, but 15W40 will work too. If your engine is dry-sleeved, any green automotive coolant will use. SCA type coolants (anti-cavitation) should be used in wet-sleeved diesels. I use a Peak brand product called Final Charge 50/50 pre-mix. Shell has one too, Extended Life Coolant (ELC).

//greg//






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 09-09-2010, 11:00 Post: 173888
pickinpough



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 just bought a farmpro 2425 have issues would like some help

I looked at the injector pump and for the life of me I am not sure where to check for oil and where to change it. I would like to be sure that it has oil then change it when I get my manuals.

Also, while I was mowing, I noticed when I turn right the tires slowly come back to center, I didn't notice this when turning left. I inspected the connections on the slave cylinder to the front axle and found the outboard fitting wet with fluild but not dripping. I snugged it down but really haven't had a chance to tested it out. Is it possible it could have been sucking some air there causing this problem? I found the parts disturbutors you both have gave me and the one in Texas has a rebuild kit. Looks pretty straight forward. I would imagine if it that slight seepage wasn't the problem then would it be possible that the cylinder is bypassing through the seals when turned to the right? Thanks Mike






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

Thread 173854 Filter by Poster:
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