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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Cub Cadet Forum

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 06-01-2011, 17:11 Post: 178751
boltboss



Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Cassopolis, MI
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 Starting Difficulties

I see enough requests for this information that I am providing the following for those that encounter starting issues with their tractor. While this is directed at Cub owners I have heard from owners of other brands that have experienced the same problem and cure.

I purchased a Cub Cadet 6284 with the Perkins Cat diesel engine this spring (in 2009). As the fall days approached days got colder and I found it increasingly difficult to start the engine until it was becoming almost impossible even though it was not yet very cold by Michigan winter standards. The starter would either not engage at all or it would engage and crank the engine just to the point that it would kick over and then disengage before the engine was running.

At first I suspected a weak battery, then connections, and even the starter, though there was just enough inconsistency to the behavior to make it difficult to pin down. I was concerned about this to the point that I started searching the forums and discovered that this is not an unusual problem with Cub diesel tractors. One post explained that the problem was caused because the circuit that energizes the starter solenoid runs through all of the safety switches and can cause enough voltage drop that the solenoid will not engage. It also recommended that the cure for this is to install a relay switch that is energized by the starter circuit and connects battery power directly to the solenoid to provide full battery voltage.

I installed a relay in the starting circuit and it definitely made an improvement on how the tractor starts - especially when cold. I installed a 4 pin, 30 amp, 12 volt relay (Dorman part number 84601 - under $8.00 at auto parts store) and a 15 amp inline fuse on the battery side of the switched circuit.

To energize the relay I took the small wire from the starter solenoid and routed it to the activation side of the solenoid. I grounded the other post on the activation side of the solenoid. I then installed a wire for battery power from the large positive post on the solenoid (could use the positive post of the battery if you want) and routed it to the switched (activated) side of the relay. The other switched post I then ran to the small wire (energizing circuit) connection on the starter solenoid.

The result is that direct battery current is now supplied to the energizing post of the solenoid when the relay is activated by the ignition switch via the safety switches. No longer does voltage drop through the safety switches affect the starter solenoid from energizing and engaging since battery voltage is provided directly through the solenoid activated circuit.

After installing the relay the tractor now cranks much better when cold without kicking out. It acts like the battery is much stronger and I believe this is because before the voltage used to drop when the starter began to crank causing the energizing voltage to the solenoid to also drop and thereby disengaging the starter. Note that this modification does not defeat the safety features since the circuit that energizes the relay still runs through the factor safety switches.

I mounted the relay on the front of the bulkhead for the radiator (see photos). I hope that others encountering starting issues will find this helpful.

JN

Sorry, I could not get pictures to load - copy and paste the links below into your browser to view.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/boltboss/Sears%20Tractor/P1010003.jpg



http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/boltboss/Sears%20Tractor/P1010010.jpg



http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/boltboss/Sears%20Tractor/P1010013.jpg






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 06-03-2011, 11:36 Post: 178793
auerbach



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 Starting Difficulties

Thanks!

I don't know what happened to CC engineering.






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 06-03-2011, 12:09 Post: 178798
boltboss



Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Cassopolis, MI
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In fairness to Cub Cadet I have read in other forums that this problem (and the cure) are common in other brands including JD and on tractors that are almost new. Apparently the engineers only test their designs under ideal conditions in the development and test department and don't anticipate voltage drops through the safety switches under normal use. I'm also guessing that many or most of the engineers don't have to use and rely on the products they design. And finally the bean counters certainly don't like spending the couple of bucks extra for a solution when (in theory) the original design should work.

I'm really appreciative of this and similar forums where we can turn to when the factory and dealers fall short. I found this solution by searching the forums after I encountered the problem originally. Because it was one of those issues that come and go I don't know how long it would have taken me to diagnose it on my own - which brings me back to why I posted this. Refreshing it by posting it again helps keep it in people's minds so they have the knowledge if they encounter the same problem.






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 06-03-2011, 16:16 Post: 178812
boltboss



Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Cassopolis, MI
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I'm going to try again to link to an image. If this works it shows a wiring diagram of the modification I referred to above. If this does not work you can copy and paste the address into your browser and view it that way.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/boltboss/starter_relay_diagram.jpg



Ah, that's better. I'll add the photos above also. Note that the relay that I referred to above did not have the numbering referenced in the diagram and I used a volt/ohm meter to determine the correct posts to wire to.

I will also add that two years after the above modification the tractor has never failed to start easily even in very cold winter weather in an unheated pole barn.
JN






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auerbach 1 | boltboss 3 |

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