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 03-07-2008, 14:44 Post: 152004
bemike61



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 taishan 304a sd2100 engine

i need help from any tractor mechanic or tech person out there.

fuel system type I

i had to replace a bad fuel line , new fuel line is on how do i get the air out? is there any maintenace on injectors or the injector pump? also if i crack the nut by the injector i should get fuel coming out if everything is working right?

other questions

how much oil and what type does the governor assembly hold, i see it has a little dipstick?

how much oil does transmission box hold, does it use sae 90 oil?

what is normal operating water temp, oil temp or oil pressure.

are there any useful websites for tech info or can you get a more detailed shop manual.

this tractor is 1986 ts-304a 4wd with loader.

thanks for any help.






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 03-07-2008, 16:07 Post: 152007
greg_g



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 taishan 304a sd2100 engine

If you replaced a hose, I'm going to assume it was rubber. Rubber hoses are on the low pressure side metal lines on the high side. Anyway. Look for a small hand primer on the side of the injection pump assembly. It may look like the brass part in the photo below. Loosen the fuel filter about two turns, pump the hand primer till fuel spills out. Tighten the filter. Try to start the engine. If that doesn't work, you've got air in the hard lines (high side). We can fix that too, but lets work one side at a time.

The injection pump sump holds only a few ounces. There should be a drain plug; often underneath, sometimes on the side. Drain old stuff, flush with kerosene through the fill/vent, replace drain plug, refill to the mark on the dipstick (should only take a few ounces). I use full detergent ISO100 compressor oil in mine.

No idea how much the transmission holds. The answer to that and the SAE90 question depend upon whether or not this tractor uses UTF. Is there a separate sump for hydraulic fluid under the seat?

Normal coolant temperature will depend upon what thermostat is installed. Chinese diesel tractors typically run 70C or 80C thermostats. Oil temp should tyically should not exceed 100C, normal oil pressure may be as low as 0.05MPa (cold) and 0.4MPa (hot).

Don't count on ever seeing a shop manual - in English anyway.

//greg//





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 03-08-2008, 12:40 Post: 152020
bemike61



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 taishan 304a sd2100 engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 152007
If you replaced a hose, I'm going to assume it was rubber. Rubber hoses are on the low pressure side metal lines on the high side. Anyway. Look for a small hand primer on the side of the injection pump assembly. It may look like the brass part in the photo below. Loosen the fuel filter about two turns, pump the hand primer till fuel spills out. Tighten the filter. Try to start the engine. If that doesn't work, you've got air in the hard lines (high side). We can fix that too, but lets work one side at a time.The injection pump sump holds only a few ounces. There should be a drain plug; often underneath, sometimes on the side. Drain old stuff, flush with kerosene through the fill/vent, replace drain plug, refill to the mark on the dipstick (should only take a few ounces). I use full detergent ISO100 compressor oil in mine.No idea how much the transmission holds. The answer to that and the SAE90 question depend upon whether or not this tractor uses UTF. Is there a separate sump for hydraulic fluid under the seat? Normal coolant temperature will depend upon what thermostat is installed. Chinese diesel tractors typically run 70C or 80C thermostats. Oil temp should tyically should not exceed 100C, normal oil pressure may be as low as 0.05MPa (cold) and 0.4MPa (hot).Don't count on ever seeing a shop manual - in English anyway. //greg//

thanks greg
i do have a manual that came with this tractor, so i have some pictures i can look at. it was a rubber line i replaced. there was two types of fuel systems type I and II. type II has the prime pump you described, but the system i have has no prime pump at all, i was hoping it did. any suggestions. i tried turning over engine and crack nut that leads into injector but nothing came out.

so i know that i am not getting fuel, just need to remove air.

the guy i got this tractor from told me the rubber fuel was bad, it was worse than that. i just assumed that alot of air got in the system before i could change it out.


just to let you know there is one line rubber coming from fuel tank with a glass sediment bowl on the bottom, it then goes to the fuel filter, then a rubber line i replaced that goes from filter to injector pump, then two metal lines to the top of engine to the injector.

all rubber lines have what they call banjo eyelet fittings.

i will take any info you have to offer.
thanks

i will check on the trans info after i get the tractor running again.








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 03-08-2008, 13:29 Post: 152022
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No problem, just takes a different technique. Since there's no hand primer, you'll just have to use the starter motor. As before, loosen the fuel filter. Make sure the valve above the sediment bowl is open (that lets fuel out of the tank). Put the tractor in neutral and set the brake. Crank till you get fuel spilling out the top of the filter.

If that works, we'll move on to priming the high pressure side. If it doesn't, tthere's a problem with fuel flow on the low pressure side

//greg//






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 03-10-2008, 16:04 Post: 152054
bemike61



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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 152022
No problem, just takes a different technique. Since there's no hand primer, you'll just have to use the starter motor. As before, loosen the fuel filter. Make sure the valve above the sediment bowl is open (that lets fuel out of the tank). Put the tractor in neutral and set the brake. Crank till you get fuel spilling out the top of the filter.If that works, we'll move on to priming the high pressure side. If it doesn't, tthere's a problem with fuel flow on the low pressure side //greg//

sorry for delay. ok i do have fuel coming out of top of filter, like you said. while i was at it i drained old fuel out and put fresh in, so i know that wont be a issue later. so i am ready for the next step. thanks









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 03-10-2008, 18:39 Post: 152056
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Very good. Verify that the fuel filter is snugged up, tractor again in neutral with brake set. Follow the steel fuel lines (hard lines) up to the fuel injectors. At each fuel injector you'll see a hex head collar. Loosen each a couple of turns, preferably with a line wrench. Crank the starter till fuel comes out. There may be bubbles first. Let them come out, wait till you see raw fuel. Tighten the hex collars.

Does that thing have a pre-heater of any kind (glow plugs? ThermoStart?) Does it have a decompression lever or cable? If so, now's the time to use it/them. Then see if the engine starts. If no, suspect fuel injector problems.

If no fuel at all comes out the hardlines, suspect injection pump problems.

//greg//






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 03-10-2008, 18:39 Post: 152057
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 taishan 304a sd2100 engine

Very good. Verify that the fuel filter is snugged up, tractor again in neutral with brake set. Follow the steel fuel lines (hard lines) up to the fuel injectors. At each fuel injector you'll see a hex head collar. Loosen each a couple of turns, preferably with a line wrench. Crank the starter till fuel comes out. There may be bubbles first. Let them come out, wait till you see raw fuel. Tighten the hex collars.

Does that thing have a pre-heater of any kind (glow plugs? ThermoStart?) Does it have a decompression lever or cable? If so, now's the time to use it/them. Then see if the engine starts. If no, suspect fuel injector problems.

If no fuel at all comes out the hardlines, suspect injection pump problems.

//greg//






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 03-11-2008, 09:44 Post: 152074
bemike61



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 taishan 304a sd2100 engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 152057
Very good. Verify that the fuel filter is snugged up, tractor again in neutral with brake set. Follow the steel fuel lines (hard lines) up to the fuel injectors. At each fuel injector you'll see a hex head collar. Loosen each a couple of turns, preferably with a line wrench. Crank the starter till fuel comes out. There may be bubbles first. Let them come out, wait till you see raw fuel. Tighten the hex collars. Does that thing have a pre-heater of any kind (glow plugs? ThermoStart?) Does it have a decompression lever or cable? If so, now's the time to use it/them. Then see if the engine starts. If no, suspect fuel injector problems.If no fuel at all comes out the hardlines, suspect injection pump problems.//greg//

the nut that i should loosen is the one on top of injector, do i loosen both injector nuts or one at a time. it does have something on the y- pipe that goes into the engine but i dont know if its a glow plug. it does have a decompression lever..

what is the purpose of the decompression lever and how often do you use it.

it will be wed before i can work on it again but i will let you know the results. thanks







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 03-11-2008, 09:54 Post: 152076
greg_g



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OK. Decompression lever first. It's connected to a device under the valve cover that opens the exhaust valves slightly. When valves open, compression cannot occur. When compression cannot occur, diesel detonation cannot occur. Short version, the engine won't start. But. Since there's no compression, the engine turns over easier. Less wear and tear on the starter motor and battery. Plus, cranking the motor over also rotates the oil pump. You start getting oil circulating BEFORE detonation actually takes place. Makes the engine last longer. Release the DEcompression system, the engine starts.

And yes, loosen both compression fittings (injector nuts). If one starts pumping raw fuel before the other, tighten it down and wait for the 2nd one to spew fuel.

Unfortunately, I can't decypher that a Y-pipe means. I can only guess you're talking about intake manifold(?) If so, that suggests a ThermoStart type pre-heater. If so, there should be either a push button on the dash (to energize it) or a HEAT (H) position on the keyswitch

//greg//






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 03-12-2008, 19:31 Post: 152107
bemike61



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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 152076
OK. Decompression lever first. It's connected to a device under the valve cover that opens the exhaust valves slightly. When valves open, compression cannot occur. When compression cannot occur, diesel detonation cannot occur. Short version, the engine won't start. But. Since there's no compression, the engine turns over easier. Less wear and tear on the starter motor and battery. Plus, cranking the motor over also rotates the oil pump. You start getting oil circulating BEFORE detonation actually takes place. Makes the engine last longer. Release the DEcompression system, the engine starts.And yes, loosen both compression fittings (injector nuts). If one starts pumping raw fuel before the other, tighten it down and wait for the 2nd one to spew fuel. Unfortunately, I can't decypher that a Y-pipe means. I can only guess you're talking about intake manifold(?) If so, that suggests a ThermoStart type pre-heater. If so, there should be either a push button on the dash (to energize it) or a HEAT (H) position on the keyswitch//greg//

greg i was able to get the air out the way you said. i got the tractor running, thanks for your help.

i have not driven it much today but the clutch seems to need adjusting, would expect it to pull pretty strong. the guy i got it from said a mechanic had put in a new one about 2 years ago. sorry to pick your brain again any suggestions. i am going to look over manual tonight to see what i can do. thanks again









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