Outside doors on cement: Carpentry  -- Home Building Discussion Forum and Review Outside doors on cement: Carpentry -- Home Building Discussion Forum

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 04-30-2004, 21:54 Post: 84828
brokenarrow



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 Outside doors on cement

I have installed many doors (interior) but have only one under my belt on the exterior (on cement).
I dont know if I even done that right although I have not had any problems at all with it. I am now putting in a door on the exterior of my moms attatched garage. (So this one needs to be perfect or she will never let me live it down, she is full blooded Italian.)
The door I bought has all the moldings and frame a complete unit. On the bottom it has a metalstep covering a man made material bottom plate. My question is when I place this door on the cement the metel covering on the bottom seems to ride up a bit and it a little flexible, not much but enough to make me ask you all if there is anything I should think about putting under the bottom to alieviate this?
Thanks






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 04-30-2004, 22:41 Post: 84829
ncrunch32



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 Outside doors on cement

Brokenarrow, you have that Italian blood in you too, huh? I also installed a new garage door (not overhead but standard size) for my mother recently and had to do some customizing. My door had a metal bottom plate but sat on the concrete fairly well. If you have some play I would recommend some shims and caulk, and maybe even get those tap screws where you drill a 3/16" hole and then screw the blue screws into the concrete. They work really well.






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 05-01-2004, 16:45 Post: 84903
brokenarrow



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 Outside doors on cement

Yes I do, 1/2 Italian and 1/2 Polish! That should explain alot!!!
I am going to caulk the gap under the kick plate heavily this should take up some of the gap and creat a less spongy feel if stepped on. The front edge of the kick plate sits flat, I just dont like how spongy the middle feels. Thanks for you response!






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 05-01-2004, 18:37 Post: 84906
trbomax



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 Outside doors on cement

Ive always used canned foam under the sills. If you do, you must put paint sticks under the door, close it, then foam it. dont open it for 24 hrs. I use this method of sealing around the frame also.You must create a solid shim pac around the frame by inserting the paint sticks between the door and the frame .No drafts or leaks.






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 05-01-2004, 18:50 Post: 84908
ncrunch32



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 Outside doors on cement

trbomax, great idea! Will have to keep that in mind for future jobs.






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 05-01-2004, 21:38 Post: 84926
brokenarrow



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 Outside doors on cement

Turbo
I am assuming you are using the low expansion foam? Great idea (paint sticks) I learned the hard way the first time I used the stuff and right afterwards I told my self," what a dumb %^%". I am replaceing a door at my cabin this summer since it seems to have bent/warped even though it is new and a steel insulated one. I developed a major air leak that the door cant over come with the magnets. I wound up taping the door with duct tape last winter when I was not there. This door has a large window in it and I never liked it for the cabin (too easy to bust almost tempting to gain entry)
Thanks for your suggestions, all of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






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 05-01-2004, 22:15 Post: 84930
trbomax



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 Outside doors on cement

You can get everything exactly where you want it with shims and deck screws. Its not even necessary to sink the heads untill after the foam sets.Once you get the gap around the frame filled and it sets,dont plan on removeing it.If you have a tight spot, use a hacksaw blade to make a cut in the foam. This will allow it to relax a bit and open up the door to frame clearence.I use the hacksaw blade to trim around the inside, flush with the wall board, then install your caseing trim. This works well with windows too,but I usually have to saw kerf the foam down the sides to releave the pressure.You can really get a tight adjustment this way.






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brokenarrow 3 | ncrunch32 2 | trbomax 2 |

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