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My tractors loader runs off of an internal hyd pump. The result is slow operation of my loader without the maximum lift capacity. I have contacted a couple of dealerships inquiring about a front PTO pump without any results. I have seen older tractors with front mounted PTO pumps and I was wondering if any after market kits were available out there or if this was something that would have to be cobbled together. Any body know?

Front PTO Hydraulic Pump
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 2 Post by Frank Bonello

I am interested in installing a front pump, because my loader on my L245-DT operates too slow. I called several dealers in my area with no results. I have seen them on these tractors is this something that needs to be cobbled together or is there a kit that is available. Anybody know?

Front pump
Kubota Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Frank Bonello

I have a JD4300 with a 47 back hoe. Last week it blew a hydraulic hose and when the dealer replaced the hose he cut off the nylon sleeve that the hoses run through at the bottom of the boom. He replaced the nylon sleeve by using a couple of small plastic cable ties to hold it on. Seems like a temporary repair at best to me. I would have threaded the new hoses through an uncut sleeve since I'm looking for maximum protection for the hoses. I've had one hydraulic oil shower and I'm not anxious for another.Is this the normal way to repair hoses? Has anyone had a similar experience and how did your dealer handle it?Frank

Nylon sleeve on JD 47 back hoe
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Frank J. Knight

Sounds like a problem that is similar to what happened to me when I first tried to remove my backhoe. I have a JD4300 with a 47 backhoe but according to the manual the setup is similar. First remember that you must disconnect the backhoe hydraulics and reconnect the tractor hydraulic line to get the rockshaft to operate. It also takes 10 or 15 seconds the hydraulics to "catch up" since the backhoe holds the rockshaft in almost the full upright position. It is very easy to put the hydraulic system over relief when lifting the backhoe. The manual says to kill the engine if your going to be over relief for more than 10 seconds. What it doesn't say is how you know that you are "over relief"? You can hear it when the idling engine starts to noticeably lug. I haven't found that to be a problem since once things were adjusted correctly it only takes a few seconds to get the pins in or out.

That brings me to the real problem. The first time I tried removing the backhoe I discovered that the dealer didn't have the L-pin alignment adjusted correctly. What I ended up doing was reconnecting the backhoe hydraulics and using the stablizers to lift it enough to loosen the pins. Then reconnect the tractor hydraulics to use the rockshaft to lift and lower. Be very careful the backhoe is heavy. Once I got it off I spent the next hour readjusting the L-pins until they slid in and out easily with the rockshaft all the way up. Now it is an easy job to remove or reinstall the backhoe.

Frankj

Rockshaft arms not working
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Frank J. Knight

I drive a 24hp Kubota B2400 and for my needs it is almost ideal. More than enough tractor for the 2-1/2 acre lawn and just enough power for 10 hilly steep acres of pasture. I think the color you drive is a matter of personal taste. The ergonomics vary from machine to machine but the quality seems to be much the same from JD, NH and Kubota. For me it was a balance of weight and power. Stepping up from the B2400 would have meant an additional 500 lbs or so on the Kubota and up to a 1000 lbs on the others. I didn't really want to run that much weight accross my lawn on R4's so I chose the Kubota and have been very happy. It might have been nice to step up a couple of sizes just for the ability to use larger impliments eg., my B2400 can only use a 4' bush hog and a 5' would have been useful but otherwise I haven't missed the additional power. I would have though that for $18K you would have been able to put together a pretty nice combination in the 30hp range with FWD and hydro with FEL and 3-pt grooming mower and rotary cutter especially in the Boomers which seem to be a little less expensive that the Kubotas and JDs. Good luck with your new toy. You'll be surprised at the difference in the new machines. I still bust my butt on a 45 year old JD 820 at the farm but it just keeps going and going so there is no reason to change it out.

HELP Which one Orange or Blue
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by Frank R Taylor

I love it!!!!!

Customers and Dealers
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Frank R Taylor

like Bird, I would recommend a Kubota but only because that's what I spend most of my time sitting on. I have no problems with the other colors (I have a JD 820 and a MF 270 at the farm). It's like a suit, try it on and if it fits , but it but don't underestimate the impact the dealer can have. Mine convinced me to get R4's instead of turfs when he found out what I was going to be doing with it and I have never regretted it. I'm convinced that I would have never been able to mow my hilly pasture without them and they have never done any damage to speak of to the lawn. They are stiffer and rougher riding though and I probably go a little slower because of that but I've not had the puncture problems I'd occasionally get with turfs either. It's a trade off.

plow with turfs
Parts and Repair
Replies 12 Post by Frank R Taylor

Currently mowing about 9 acres of clear, flat, weedy land with a Sears lawn mower. Takes me about a week to cut it! Have been looking into a MF-1240 or a Kubota L2600, with 4wd, loader, and cutter. Would also like a loader for snow removal (about 1000 ft of dirt driveway) and light landscaping. Unfortunatly price is a major consideration. Any ideas?

Looking for a Compact diesel to mow 9 acres
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by Frank Mulligan

What is a fair price for a 1995 Kubota B7100 4wd Compact Tractor with a 60 inch belly mower? Are they a good Tractor?

Faie price for 1995 Kubota B7100 4wd
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Frank Till

Terry, like you I was always a JD "man". I still have an old 820 at the farm but when it was time to replace the 318 garden tractor at the house with a compact last year, I factored the delivery times on the 4000 series along with the service received from the JD dealer over the years into my decision to buy a Kubota. There are no NH dealers close to me. The dealership has since changed hands and service has improved but after reading all the posts on this board concerning the 4000 series I consider myself fortunate to be driving an orange machine. It starts, it runs, it does what it is supposed to do and you cant ask for anything more. I think there is a certain amount of complacency set in at Deere because of people like you and me who have always bought green and until recently have seen no reason to do otherwise. They seem to have forgotten that it is now a very competative market out there with the buyer having plenty of alternatives. It is somewhat similar to the American car companies immediately prior to the Japanese invasion. Also, the current focus and drive within companies to increase share price and stockholder dividends leads them to forget what actually generates the income that increases those two things. Before they know it, their market share has fallen and their customer base has eroded (but the stockholders are happy)leaving them as a takeover candidate. I hope this doesn't happen to Deere and that they realize soon that customer service and quality products are the keys to success. Meanwhile, I'm in the market for a new M8200 and will continue to buy orange until they give me a reason to change.

Are large frame Boomer tractors better than Deere
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

David said it best for the problem I was having (870/440). When unlatched, turn off motor and move the loader lever in all directions to relieve the pressure. When explaining this to my father, I told him to work that lever for five minutes (This is a bit overkill but you must be absolutely sure the loader has completely settled). The backhoe is a little different, I haven't mastered settling it so I keep having to press the disconnect against something hard and not get sprayed. I will try the rag tip.

Problem Connecting Hydraulic Hoses
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 17 Post by Greg franklin

Daryl, this happened longer ago than last week and for the life of me I can't remember exactly. One of the consequences of getting older I suppose but being Scottish I remember the $60 vividly. I remeber it was hidden underneath something in the engine compartment (I think), in an out of the way place that you would never stumble across by just glancing around, looking for it. I don't have the 318 anymore so I can't go and look and I'm not familiar with your model but I'd start behind the dash and trace wires until I found it. There aren't that many and it shouldn't take too long. Best of luck. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

HELP - 430 quit and won t start
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Frank R Taylor

Can anyone provide information about idling a diesel tractor engine? Is it okay or should it be avoided? What are the consequences? Seems like I read somewhere that it was not good for the engine but I can't remember why. Regards.

Running a Diesel at Idle
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Ronnie Franks

I don't have foam filled tires but I looked into it at one time and spoke to a guy that had them. The main drawback for me was that having the tires filled with foam was expensive to do. The guy that had them used his tractor for commercial mowing and he said it made the ride a kidney bruiser - really hard and uncomfortable at times in rough pasture. The upside was that he had not had a puncture in over 2 years so he was pleased. Since you have turfs, I can't see where it would make any real difference (I'm guessing), for finish mowing your lawn but in your logging businees the turfs lack of grip would worry me although not having to mess with a puncture in the woods would be nice. Since they are already on the machine, I think I would keep them and see how it worked out. If lack of traction became a problem while logging, then I think I would change to R4's. They can be rough riding as well because they are pretty stiff but in my experience they are less prone to punctures than Ag's or turfs.

foam filled turf tires pros and cons
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by Frank R Taylor

I occasionally had the same windrow, clumping problem with my 5' Befco rear mount, 3-pt finishing mower, especially if I couldn't get round to it for some reason and the grass was long (or damp). It was unsightly and tended to kill the grass under the windrow. I tried remowing the windrows to mulch the grass and mowing at faster and slower sppeds but it didn't seem to help much. Eventually I invested $166 for a mulching kit which so far seems to have cured the problem. The only drawback is that I have to mow at a slightly slower speed (but not much) and that the baffles of the mulching kit tends to lay over long weed grasses and not cut it to the proper height, needing a second pass to tidy it up. It handles the lawn grass beautifully. I'm going to try raising the mower 1/2" and see if that helps.

NewHolland 84 quot rear discharge midmount mower
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

Like Bird I'm a Kubota owner so maybe I'm not qualified to answer, especially since I have no NH dealers close and know little about their equipment but I'll give you my 2 cents worth anyway. The NH is less expensive and from the posts on this board it is a very good machine. The dealer is obviously interested in your business even if he is 60 miles away. I'm one of the people who bought a Kubota because of an indifferent Deere dealer and I don't think anyone would argue about the value of a good and responsive dealer. So, unless you are desperate to drive a green machine I think the sensible answer would be the NH if the dealer will continue to offer good service after the sale and you can live with hom being 60 miles away. The NH dealer that is closer may not take too kindly to servicing a machine he did not sell in the first place and if his service is bad now, it probably won't get any better in the future.

JD or NH
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Frank R Taylor

i gave up trying to pull that stuff years ago after I found out how allergic to it I was and it never did any real good anyway because I never could get all the roots out. I spray Brush-Be-Gone, 2,4,D and Roundup although I've never been a big fan of Roundup. I've seen healthy weeds outgrow the killing effects of Roundup because it works so slowly. All that spray gets to be expensive over the course of a year so I'll have to try Murf's hot water treatment. They also make a "Weed Wand" with a hollow handle that you fill with chemical and it has an absorbant tip that you use to wipe the weeds with the killer. It might be OK if you don't want to spray and it's faster than painting the chemical on. Good luck.

Poison Ivy
Garden and Landscape
Replies 22 Post by Frank R Taylor

I'm going to be in the market for a tiller for my Kubota B2400 before it's time to put in next years garden and I'd like to benefit from all the experience out there. Walking behind that old Troybilt is getting to be hard work but the main reason is that the tractor is just sitting there while I'm working my butt off. The manual says that 50" is the widest tiller width my tractor can handle with a maximum weight of approx 465 lbs (I think?). My ground is pretty rocky with a 2" to 6" thick hardpan layer about 6" below the surface so am I best just going with a Kubota tiller or are there some good aftermarket machines out there. Also is the reverse tilling feature available on some tillers worth the extra cost. Looking forward to your replies and thanks in advance for your help.

Which Tiller
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

Dave, I think that 2" movement in the blade is excessive and may be the answer to you problem, especially is the deck is not level or the blades are not balanced. I didn't know, but after reading your post I went and checked my rotary cutter. It has about 1/4" to 1/2" max vertical movement at the tip of the blade and mine is an el cheapo model since I use it mainly on pasture grass and weeds. Better check that the bolts holding the blades to the stump jumper plate are properly tightened because you sure as hell don't want a blade coming off in use. Otherwise you may need to put some sort of spacer in there to reduce the amount of "play".

rotary cutter vibration
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

That's about what I thought Mike. I tried it with several 50 pound sacks of dirt in the bucket to lower the cenetr of gravity but the problem was that with all the additional weight my little B2400 had barely enough power to make it up the slope at the speed I wanted to mow - SLOW,SLOW. It was ok if I went a little faster but I didn't want to go diving off into some hole or hit some downed tree limb that I couldn't see because of the long grass. I think I'll try it without the FEL and see how it goes.

Stability on Slopes
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by Frank R Taylor