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7194 fuel shut off solenoid removal

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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5 South Dakota
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2018-09-02          197952

My Cub Cadet recently was used to mow grass for 2 hours, shut it off for lunch, then it won't start. Have fuel pressure to the injector pump bleed screw, cranks but won't start. I drained all the fuel, purchased new fuel and bled the system.

I have resistance across each of the 3 glow plugs.
During cranking, I have about 10v at each of the glow plugs, as well as at the battery terminals, even with a 50A charger attached.

I read on this forum from someone who mentioned removing the inspection cover from the side of the injector pump, I did that and witnessed the solenoid movement of about 1/16" during cranking of the engine. Is this the proper travel? I don't have fuel at the injector tubes leading into the injector nozzles, but do have fuel at the inlet to the injector pump. The fuel shut off solenoid coils do read the proper resistance, so am assuming that it either is not traveling far enough to open, or the injector pump has failed. On another note, I tried spraying WD-40 into intake during cranking, nothing happened. I gave a couple shots of ether, and it made the engine sound like it was knocking badly while cranking and decided not to do that again.
Other suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!


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7194 fuel shut off solenoid removal

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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 77 United States
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2018-09-03          197953

I have a CC 7305, which seems to have the same injector solenoid and a similar injector pump (my 30hp just needs bigger squirts or fuel). 1/16" seems a bit short of a throw for the solenoid.

There are two wires to the injector solenoid. The pull-in coil is connected to the Start contacts on the ignition switch and thus is energized only when the starter motor is engaged. This coil takes a lot of juice and can't be engaged for long or you'll burn out the coil - not a real issue when the tractor is running right. The other coil, call it the 'keep pulled' coil, is connected to the Run contacts on the ignition switch. This coil is energized till you turn the ignition switch to off, at which time the solenoid disengages and the injector pump stops pumping.

If you have an ohmmeter, check to be sure both coils are still good (have a bit of resistance); you've checked this. (The lower-resistance one should be the pull-in coil.)

Next check is to run a wire from your battery's positive terminal to each of the solenoid terminals while you look thru the injection pump inspection cover. If one of the terminals moves the solenoid rod a 1/4" or so, you've found the pull-in coil.
Next start working your way back from the solenoid to the ignition switch; does the pull-in coil wire get voltage when you go to 'start'? If not you've got a wiring problem or maybe a blown fuse although I don't think there's one dedicated to the solenoid.

Assuming the solenoid is OK, A 'bailing wire' fix would be to rig a push-button to energize the pull-in coil just before you turn the key to Start.

It's possible the governor is stuck, but unlikely. In summer the glow plugs shouldn't be necessary.
Good luck! ....

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