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John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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bbarnes42
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6 Alabama
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-08-30          193469


I have a 2004 JD 4210. It perfectly starts every time, it will drive about 30 feet and stop driving, and will not drive any longer. I turn the tractor off, and restart, it will drive about 30 feet and stop. Any idea? I've checked the hydraulic fluid and its good. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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PaulChristenson
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 76 Vermont
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-08-30          193471


I assume you have the hydro transmission...Look on the right fender there should be a light flashing a sequence of numbers. The picture on the light looks like a book. Let it go though the sequence a few times to make sure that you have it right. It will be short and long flashes. Write them down and tell us what they are and it will tell where the problem is.
....

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____________________________________________________________________________________
John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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bbarnes42
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6 Alabama
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-08-30          193472


I didn't even think about putting the code down. Long, Long, Short, Short. These are the flashes that I'm getting.

I appreciate any help. ....

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____________________________________________________________________________________
John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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PaulChristenson
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 76 Vermont
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-08-30          193473


Rear pedal potentiometer is out of range.

Look under the pedals on the right floorboard and see if there is any debris that pulled loose the wires from the connectors. It may not be easily noticable, unplug the connectors and press the wires back into the connector. Check the fuses to see if any are blown. Look for any chaffed wires. Basically do a real close look at the wiring on the right side under the floor from the firewall to the rear end. ....

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____________________________________________________________________________________
John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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bbarnes42
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6 Alabama
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-08-31          193474


I will take a close look at all you've mentioned. I do have to wander why I would be able to turn the tractor off and back on to get it to drive, even if it was a short distance. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again. ....

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____________________________________________________________________________________
John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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bbarnes42
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6 Alabama
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-09-01          193493


All the wiring was found good, so I tested the rear pedal potentiometer and found it to read .7Vdc to 3.9. I was able to get it adjusted to a point to clear the fault code. Today when I went to use it, the problem came back, I reset it, and no issues during the 2 hours of use.
I was told that the potentiometer should be .6 to 4.7Vdc. Is this correct? I may need a new rear pedal potentiometer. ....

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John Deere 2004 4210 Drive Problem

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Handiman
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 22 Mantua, NEW Jersey
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-09-04          193542


I had a similar problem with my case 580. It turned out to be one of 2 cutout switches they use. One was under the brake pedal and the other switch was on the bucket lever control. Every time you pressed one of these switches the machine would stop moving. It took me a while to figure it out as to why my machine would not move. I got it running after I disconnected the wires going to the solenoid valve located on the right side of the transmission. On your machine that solenoid is controlled by many other factors. If you simply connect that solenoid to a 12 volt battery you can hear it click on and off. Meaning engage and disengage. Once you see what is happening you can begin to trace down where your short is. Mine was a bad switch under the brake pedals. The direction of the wires connected to solenoid does not matter plus or minus, that is why they are both black wires. By the way, I have since stop connecting those wires to the switch under the brake pedals and instead hooked them directly to the brake light switches located above the pedals. Now my case stops instantly. ....

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