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Fuel Line Replacement

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annagrace
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 5 alabama
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2015-01-26          191943


I replaced the inlet and outlet fuel line on my 2003 Farm Pro 24/20 tractor. How do I prime the fuel lines so that the fuel pressure is re-established?



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Fuel Line Replacement

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-01-27          191945


If you did not fill the new filter with clean fuel before screwing it back on, you should do that first. After replacing it, locate where it enters the fuel injection pump assembly. Just a little, so you can pump fuel completely through the low pressure side. Use the little hand pump on the side of the engine. When fuel drips from the loosened fitting, tighten it back down.

Next you purge air from the high pressure side;follow the steel fuel lines from the injector pump up to the fuel injectors. Each injector will have a hex collar holding the line to the injector. Loosen each hex collar one turn. Crank the engine over while watching the hex collar. When fuel runs out, stop cranking and tighten the collars. The engine should now start.

//greg// ....


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Fuel Line Replacement

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annagrace
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 5 alabama
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-01-27          191949


That worked and now my tractor is running. Unfortunately my ignition switch isn't working so I had to jump the starter. I've checked the 30 amp fuse and it appears fine. What else can I trouble shoot on the ignition switch? ....


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Fuel Line Replacement

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-02-05          192018


Chinese ignition switches are notoriously unreliable. OE switches are not weatherproof, and the wafers inside simply disintegrate over time. But there are a couple other things to check first.
(a) battery ground cable: disconnect the end that's bolted to the engine support frame. Use a wire brush or acetone to remove the paint from both the cable lug and the support frame. Once you've got bare metal on both, reattach the battery cable
(b) clutch interlock switch; it's underneath the left floorboard. Yours may be positioned incorrectly relative to the clutch pedal, or it may be damaged/destroyed already. Reposition/replace as necessary

Even if one of the above is the current cause, I recommend replacing the OE switch anyway. It WILL eventually fail. Shop for a Ford type cold start switch. There are cheap replacements for under $20 ( http://www.dealsinapinch.com/A_E7NN11N501AB_p/a-e7nn11n501ab.htm ). Chinese, but still better than OE. If possible, find a Lucas switch, they're the most reliable.

And if cost is no object, get the same switch in marine grade. They're weatherproof and nearly indestructible. This one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUCAS-TYPE-UNIVERSAL-COMMERCIAL-MARINE-DIESEL-TRACTOR-IGNITION-SWITCH-IGN1-/291280826453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item43d1b0b055
is only an example, but I'm not sure if it can live up to the waterproof claim.


//greg// ....


Link:   Lucas switch

 

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