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Thanks Murf,

I was thinking of keeping inside, so that should work well. I just have to figure out if I should try to fill it with off-road, or the stuff at the pump for $1.79 gal.
hmmmm

Fuel Strorage Tank
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by bmlekki

Looking to buy a service manual for a 2004 JD 2210 on CD. Any sources?

2210 Service Manual
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by millers1

It is shimmed by installing or removing shims under the injection pump. You will need to spill time the engine to determine where you are at. If you have a fax number I can provide you the procedure.

MF 1250 w Iseki diesel
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 3 Post by radarr72

Todd,

Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose when buying from a far away dealer and it appears that you definitely came up snake eyes this time.

I agree with the others. Be honest and admit your mistake and ask for his help. If he's a good business man, he'll help you. If he doesn't, the only alternative is the District or Regional NH rep.

Good Luck.

Please help Steering Probelm
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by paulss

Your pic. # 11 looks a LOT like what I used to have at our deer camp.

Notice I said "used to have", I spent a few days in there with a small dozer and scraped all the topsoil (gumbo?) out of the way and laid down a few inches of pit run from an exposed riverbank deposit we have nearby.

Now you can drive anywhere on the property along the trails in just a golf cart.

Best of luck.

Use R1 and R4
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Murf

I guess the terms 'a lot' and 'extremely' are very subjective.

What we did was use a 10 pound bag of de-icing salt (that we already had) with a couple of gallons of boiling water. I assume that if you used regular table salt (myuch finer crystals) it would disolve a whole lot easier though.

Bear in mind though that we mixed at a rate of 1 pound of salt for 5.5 US gallons of water, so for a back-pack sprayer it would be much problem to mix a smaller amount.

Best of luck.

controlling grass along fencing
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 50 Post by Murf

My opinion is that it has to be looked at for what it is.I feel the strenth and power is decent for it's intended purpose and size.My biggest issue with the bh is having to move the machine so frequently when digging.

BX23 Backhoe Strength
Kubota Tractors
Replies 15 Post by jimshea

Thanks eveyone for your comments. Back to basics. Drain a little more until the dipstick reads correct level.

Has anyone else seen this type of an issue after doing their 50 hr? The last two tractors I had came out just about exactly right.

Too Much Hydro Oil
Kubota Tractors
Replies 13 Post by beagle

This sounds like something that happened to me. A branch pushed through the grill and unplugged the positive lead from the battery clamp. The battery was fine and the main thick wire was still connected but the secondary connector that plugs right into the main battery clamp was slightly disconnected. I had probably used the tractor for an hour this way without noticing anything wrong until I tried to restart it. Everything was dead.<br>
<br>
There was only one angle from below that allowed me to see it. From the top of the battery, everything looked fine. Good luck.<br>
David

Dead Machine - electrical - IDEAS
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by shortmagnum

Chipaz,<br>
I agree with Chief that there should have been no cost involved to you. Just for the sake of knowing...how old is your machine? That really shouldn't matter as there still should have been no cost for a repair to a problem NH knows exists.<br>
<br>
I'm also wondering if this "fix" is something that the dealers are obtaining the parts locally for or if this "kit" is something sent out by NH? Didn't oneace reply somewhere that the circuit breakers he has installed were of LESSER amperage than the original 10 amp fuse? Why then did you get one of a different value? Not that it will hurt anything being that it is the same value as the original fuse but my point is, if NH is allowing their dealers to purchase whatever parts are necessary to complete this update, then how do they know that the proper components were or even are, being installed? Doesn't sound like very good owner/dealer/corporate communication to me!<br>
<br>
I'm con-fused! (pun intended)<br>
Tim<br>
<br>

TC 33D Blowing Fuses
New Holland Tractors
Replies 47 Post by 5picker

If you can live with a very basic tractor, and you can fit in the 790's limited operator space, you will have a very reliable, nearly bulletproof machine.

While it is quite capable of doing the jobs you have outlined, the 790 has less hydraulic flow and pressure than the Kubota. This will be most noticeable if you hook it to a log splitter. The splitter will develop plenty of power but you will sacrifice some speed of operation.

JD 790 vs Kubota 2910
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by DRankin

Sure. I got these numbers from the JD sales brochure:

Maximum lift height at pivot pin: 101.4"
Reach at max. height: 26"
Dump angle: 43 degrees
Rollback angle: 23 degrees
Breakout force at pivot pin: 3299 foot lbs.
Lift capacity at pivot pin (at max height): 1261 lbs.
Loader raising time: 2.9 secs.
Loader lowering time: 2.4 secs.
Bucket dump time: 1.6 secs.
Bucket rollback time: 2.2 secs.

430 loader specs question for KW
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by kwschumm

The only difference between us is I haven't fixed the door yet.

I knew it would happen someday
Tractor Projects
Replies 11 Post by DRankin

The threaded bar attach's to a 1/4 inch thick steel plate to which a 1 inch nut has been welded.

DRankin - I need your advise on wheel wieghts
Kubota Tractors
Replies 30 Post by DRankin

Generrally when you want to drain hydraulic fluid from the tractor you have to drain the whole system from the drain plug. If you want to drain just the loader for repair purposes, just disconnect one of the hoses on the loader with the engine off & the bucket on the ground.

bucket capacity b7510
Kubota Tractors
Replies 16 Post by grassgod

This is almost always caused by the regulating valve which is pushed in by the knob below the seat on the front side of the lift box. They made a bunch of these too tight and they will stick if the knob is turned to the closed position. A number "0" size reamer can be used to clean the bore or the valve peice itself can be polished in a lathe (or drill motor).

BUT you say this is not the problem in your case so... I would be sure that the linkage to both the position and draft control are not asking for the lift to raise as they work against the main control valve button on the rear of the valve (under the cover in the lift box). This button must not be pushed forward for the lift to lower (push forward to raise, either by position control lever OR draft control when top link is pushed in).

It also seems to be a characteristic of this lift box that the arms drift up when there is no weight on them regardless of position of lever. It will not raise with an implement on it, and can easily be pushed down with very little pressure put ont them, but they often like to drift up when no weight is on them.

If all of this checks out, you may want to contact your dealer to see about another diverter valve assy.

hyd problem rear arms KAMA TS254C
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by chipuren

Sorry Matt, I left out a word, I have edited it to make a little more sense now.

As Tom mentioned, if your loader is connected to the valve by a series of quick-connect fittings you may want to just put a similar fitting on the gauge and replace the line to the FEL with the gauge.

Oneace makes a very good point, while you are at it you may as well check the cylinder operation and seals.

Start with the pressure set to factory spec. and then make sure that the cylinder seals are not allowing fluid to leak by then see if you still have a problem.

Best of luck.

I am frustrated with my loader and need advice
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 37 Post by Murf

FWIW, the soil at our deer camp is pretty rocky stuff also. In fact I think it's more of a case of dirt between the rocks than rocks in the dirt.

We have many small plots scattered throughout, one or two are made or re-worked each year, all were made with a Rhino 84" box blade with scarifiers. I found that by making repetitive passes, each one a few inches deeper, you ended up with a really well tilled surface and reasonably loose subsoil. IT also helped because you felt the top of each big rock before you hit it full on. When the blade bounced on a big rock we stopped and got out the spade and pry bar and rolled it out. It was worth it, following years it was MUCH easier to do that plot.

If the soil is marginal, a little organic amendment goes a long way also. I got a load of manure from a local beef farm and blended it 50/50 with sand from a stream bank. It made a HUGE difference.

So far I have not broken any scarifier shanks, but I have broken or lost about a dozen tips on them.

Best of luck.

PLOTS1
Operating and Attachments
Replies 22 Post by Murf

On the other hand you could buy a CUT and then rent a SSL for the few really tough jobs you don't want to beat up your beloved machine doing.

Most areas are serviced by rental yards today, they will deliver you a fairly new SSL for about $200 a day.

Best of luck.

Tractor or Skid Steer
Operating and Attachments
Replies 16 Post by Murf

About 3 years ago, I had five 8-9' tall bluespruces dug and transported to my Northern Michigan condo from the Indian River area. They cost me $500.00 each and are now about 10-11' tall. I constructed a berm to make a natural barrier. I'm told that I got a deal. They are beautiful.

If your trees are in good condition, full & evenly shaped, you definitely should consider selling them. They can be hand dug with about 5-6' diameter root balls. The balls weigh about 500+ pounds each. I transported them with my 18' flatbed trailer and dropped them in place with my loader and built a berm around them. Another way is with a large tree spade.

You could run an ad in your local paper or post it in the local grocery store. Someone is always looking for some big trees. For pricing, check out what tree farms are getting for them. Spades are easier and less back breaking but expensive to rent.

Most tree guys will tell you not to dig a spruce in late spring when the new growth spurts, that's about end of May. You can then start again in mid-September. That time between you need to be very careful and do lots of watering. If you transport them, cover with a tarp. The wind blowing past the needles when driving down the road for an extended journey can dry the tree out.

Also be careful with the limbs. You will need to tie them up kinda like a Christmas tree during transport. Don't put too much pressure on them. I had a couple limbs die out, but my trees were so thick, it didn't matter.

I took some pictures last week with a regular camera. Will try to post them next week.

What to do with Blue Spruce s
Garden and Landscape
Replies 4 Post by yooperpete