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Yes, up is disengaged. (At least on every tractor I have ever operated) I've had toubles in the past with the Diff lock not wanting to dissengage on a Cub Cadet tractor I owned. Even after pulling the pudal up the diff would stay locked. I have found it necessary to either back up and turn, or drive forward and turn to get the darn thing to unlock. But as was stated be careful when driving forward because the tractor will tend to "push" the front wheels instead of turning. This is due to both rear wheels driving and neither one wanting to slip at a different speeds alowing the tractor to turn.

Mystery Pedal
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by MarkS

Hi Greg: I'm the proud owner of a 5245 with Allied 594 loader. I bought mine in Spring of 2000 with 1120 hours...paid $6500. I think it was a steal. Great shape, great rubber, runs/starts great, no leaks, strong, heavy, etc. I almost passed out when looking at the compact prices. Plus I don't ever plan to mow my lawn with the machine (now that would look odd), but rather maintain/build my 1000' steep driveway through the woods, build a house, etc. Local dealers close to me. Very pleased with my Zetor. What do you want to do with it?

Zetor 4wd tractor
Tractor Projects
Replies 4 Post by Bruce Pirger

Dave: Since you still have to sell your 9N, you've still got time to be more confused. Just kidding. I searched and researched tractors for 6 months before I bought mine. I read, rode, evaluated, and kicked everything I could find within 50 miles of home. It took about 3 months to narrow the field down to 2 tractors that I felt really fit the bill. Funny thing is I didn't end up with either of them. I took a dealer's offer of a 4 day trial over Thanksgiving last year. It totally destroyed all the data/feelings/notions I had collected in the previous 3 months. What I thought I wanted (simple/gear trans) did not compare to what he gave me to try (HST/mfwd). He hadn't offered the trial based on selling me the unit he delivered...he was just letting me use the tractor to get a few jobs done before the weather closed in...hoping I'd return when I was making my purchase. Guess where I went when I was ready?

What did I buy? A JD4300 with loader/blade/rotary mower. My best advise is to find the features on a tractor you want from a dealer who wants you as a long term customer. My dealer has even offered to let me use other attachments when I have small jobs to do. Can you believe he's only 20 minutes away....driving my tractor!!

Good luck Dave. Whether you go with NH, Kubota (or maybe even Deere) you have to be happy with how it fits you needs. With the quality and features of the tractors you looking at, you'll do ok.

NH v Kubota
New Holland Tractors
Replies 23 Post by Jeff Golden

Looks like about 42ftlbs@2500rpm

Torque ratings of diesel tractor motors
Parts and Repair
Replies 24 Post by jb85302

Wisconsin dealer asking $16,000 for a 1998 NH 1925 with 625 hours. Included is 7308 loader in fair shape and 60" King Kutter rotary mower. Ag tires, Hydro, looks and sounds pretty good. Could use some advice...good price?.....good tractor? Thanks for any help.

Price Check
New Holland Tractors
Replies 2 Post by john madland

Hi Tom, You have 1 item backwards, Indirect injection diesels are much harder cold starting...not easier. The fuel economy is 10 - 20% better on a direct injection engine. I believe most all farm tractors I've ever seen are direct injection. If you notice, all the Kubota's, New Holland's, Massey Ferguson, Long, & Kioti compact tractors are indirect and all the Kubota/NH/MF larger utility class and farm/ag size are direct injection. John Deere across the board currently has all direct injection {except 4100}, and this includes Yanmar and JD Powertech engines. The only "thermostart" heater(12v. heater coil) reference{I've seen} is used in the air intake system to preheat the incoming air for helping under 32 degree starts. Maybe they have used the term "thermostart" for something else as Roger has suggested.

Ran out of Diesel filled it up and now it won 039t start
Cub Cadet
Replies 20 Post by John Miller, III

Terry if that is your goal then yes, you are on the right track, pentrating the clay belt with lighter material is the way to go. However, IMHO, the plow is the last method I would use. It will take FAR more horsepower, and take a LOT more passes to accomplish the task than a cultivator would. Depending on the tires you have on your 4100, you could probably pull a 5' cultivator (and with 2 or 3 passes) get it to a depth of 18" without too much problem at all. The area around here is one of the most prolific Market Gardening areas in North America (the Holland Marsh, Ontario, Canada) and this is how they all do it. A cultivator shank only takes about 10% of the power to pull that a mouldboard does, therefore you can pull 10 tines instead of one plow, so you do 10 times more work in one pass. Best of luck.

Rear blade and plow sizes
Operating and Attachments
Replies 23 Post by Murf

I finally have my tractor running and operating, except the lift. It is now wired up on a 3 way switch (Not Stock) works but have no control on where it stops up or down except for releasing the switch. This gets pretty frustrating when operating a box blade or a cultivator which requires precesion depths.<br> Right now I have a lift lever and a linkage rod (about 6") on the right side of my seat and the rest of the lift mechanisim has been removed and replaced with that little 3 way switch.<br> Can anyone tell me what is missing and where I might order the real part.<br>Thanks Chuck

3 Point hitch lift system
Shibaura
Replies 5 Post by Chuck

A tractor with no drawbar? I'm not aware of a compact without one, but then I don't know that many compacts. Possibly a missing drawbar. It's pretty easy to take them off entirely. I took the top-plate off mine to accommodate a 3ph hoe mount, so it might not be recognizable if somebody was looking for a drawbar hitch.

Manure spreader hookup and use
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by TomG

Most manufacturers publish recommended HP ranges for their implements. The ranges tend to be fairly conservative. Operating technique can be used to match a larger or smaller implement to a tractor, but sticking within recommended ranges is a pretty good idea. In general, selecting an implement that just covers the rear tire tracks works well. There is a 'loose standard' in tractor design. More powerful tractors tend to have wider tracks. Implement designers design their implements for the HP that go with different width tracks. However, this general rule doesn't work for heavy-duty rotary cutters. I use a 5' single auger/4 blade fan Meteor blower with a 24 PTO HP tractor. Mine goes through 3' of snow fairly easily but at very slow ground speeds. Since I have gears, I use the lowest of my 4 reverses at PTO RPM for heavy snows and go less than 1 mph. Slow, but it works. However, for 3' snows, the auger doesn't clear quite fast enough so the blower starts acting like a plough. Occasionally I have to stop and chew away. With HST I'd have better control of ground speed and wouldn't have the problem. It's really a blower capacity rather than a power problem. The tractor has some power left and probably could run a blower with a slightly larger fan. However, Murf pointed out some time ago that PTO clutch failure isn't uncommon and is related to how much stress an implement puts on the drive. I figure, why put the added stress from a larger blower on the drive, when I really don't need the extra capacity very often. Even then, I just need to go slower. Well, it's a small problem limited to short runs where the snow drifts. I figure that if I let 3' of snow accumulate without doing something about it, it's me that's got the problem. Meteor tends to receive positive comments for a moderate to low priced blower. Other makes may have more features and stronger more durable designs, but the Meteor has worked for me without problem through two winters. My Meteor has hydraulic chute rotation, and I wouldn�t be without it. Pronovost is another make to check. They are pricier.

snowblower
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 6 Post by TomG

Kevin, The 4100 actually weighs 1600# (according to the Deere specs) and the loader an extra 600#, so your unit actually weighs in at around 2200# (without filled tires, wheel weights, or an implement on the 3pt).

4100 and Septic System
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Jim Youtz

Bruce, the Used Tractor Price Guide lists the 1963 Ford 4000 as having 41 PTO hp in diesel, weighing 3182 lbs; the gas version as 46 hp and 2987 lbs. In 1965, weight jumps to 4210 and 4450 for the gas and diesel versions, respectively; that year is also listed as the first for 3-cylinder engines. In 1969, weight and HP take another jump.

Sorry I have no experience with these tractors; just what the book says! Hope it helps.

Bill

In search of Ford 4000 details
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by BillMullens

Lois, congrats. on your purchase! Hope your are as happy with yours as I am with mine, I have had it almost two months and put 50 hrs. on it and thats pretty much being a weekend farmer. Good luck .

Purchased TC29D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 2 Post by keith rose

I had to make the same choice, and I live in upstate ny where we get
150+ inches of snow, for me I chose a snowblower, and did not buy the front
loader. The only problem is a six foot NH front mount blower is very expensive a rear mounted blower is less but a little harder to use.

loader snow removal
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 25 Post by David Keith

Dave, please refer to my first post.. in it, I talked about price.

tires mower
Kubota Tractors
Replies 16 Post by Duane Pearl

Does anyone know if it is possible to change my email address on the board. I have emailed moderator several times with my new address with no reponse. I have also tried to reregister seveal times, also with no response.

change email address
Website Operations Howto
Replies 1 Post by Chris in IN

Thanks for the feedback. I did e-mail KK to ask if they thought it would be
OK. the reply was a bit basic, just saying that they recommend a minimum of
25hp for their 60" tiller (but is that engine hp, PTO hp, what ???).

Anyway, I tend to rely more on people's own experience than manufacturer's
assurances.

Terry: the KK tiller has a slip clutch on the driveline, and a gear drive. That
was part of the attraction. The current price I have is approx. $1,390.

JD recommend their 550 tiller, which is a 48" tiller, which is offset. I don't think the KK can be offset, but since its just wider then the wheels on the 4200 I don't see that being a problem.

Thanks for the feedback!

Philip

What tiller for John Deere 4200
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by Philip

My NH TC18 just passed that interval recently. The dealer came out to do the 50-hour service interval "free" -- meaning that I didn't pay for the service call or hourly labor, but I did pay for the filters and fluids. I reviewed the Operators Manual ahead of time, and also watched the whole process and asked questions. The result is that the dealer has now taught me the normal service process and I feel comfortable doing it myself if I want to. I have to say, it's awfully convenient having the dealer's service tech come and do it for me, but I suspect the cost of the service call is more than I want to pay for that convenience!

Dealer Service
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Rich Luhr

Scott,

I was in your situation 6 months ago... my wife and I bought a 10-acre farm. We have 1 acre for the homestead, 3 acres are pasture for our 2 horses, the remaining 6 acres will be used for apple, peach and apricot trees as well as pumpkins, corn and sooner or later a couple of bee hives. I looked first at buying a used tractor, went to several consignment auctions and bankruptcy sales and was not encouraged with what I saw. If I had the time and mechanical ability to rebuild/ restore I might have gone with a used tractor. Next I looked at "gray market" tractors... heard that there are some problems getting parts and service for this type of equipment so I stayed away from them. Lastly I went to three well-known dealers and looked at the Kabota L3000 and the John Deere 790 with a 60" bucket and a 5' rotary mower. Both machines are extremely similar in quality, hap, size, weight and capabilities but the JD was several thousand dollars cheaper ($15,250 for the package here in north west NJ) and JD offered a very attractive loan package at 8% interest over 5 years. The only stipulation JD had was that I take out an "inland marine" insurance policy on the tractor in the event that I try to plow the pond so the kids could ice skate and wind up sinking the tractor or roll it over by trying to mow a 45 degree slope I guess, the policy cost me a couple of hundred per year. I would agree with the previous posters that going with new is the best route to take - unless you are lucky enough to find a dealer with a clean, well maintained (ask if there are any maintenance records) used piece of equipment - from one of the "big three". As per the equipment... used, barn kept equipment should work for years I have seen quite a few pieces at the auctions and sales we went to this year. The 790 can handle a 60" rotary tiller, a single 16" bottom plow or even a double 12" bottom plow. Good luck! Doug

Know nothing about tractors
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by DCB

I can get you parts for your engine. sheaftractor@coiinc.com

engine parts for a Yanmar 3T80LE HP engine please
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 2 Post by lsheaffer