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According to the 476 parts book:
"WM-58625 Valve, 2 Spool Monoblock, 1800psi"

So I would expect it should be set to 1800 psi, eh?

btw, you can get the owner's manual for the 476 online at
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/OperatorManualView?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=14101
then enter the model number 590-476-100. The 476's control valve is rebuildable; the parts page lists a detent kit, a spring center kit, a seal kit and a load check kit.

Front End Loader relief valve squeals when 3 point is used
Cub Cadet
Replies 11 Post by chashm

Installed new fuel pump and filter. Pump works fine. Pump goes on with ignition. Purged line up to injector pump. Engine still won't start. Injectors still not getting fuel. Something apparently wrong with injector pump. Interesting that both fuel pump and injector pump quit working unless one caused the other. I'm a little hesitant to over-due the cranking over if a clogged fuel line or non-functioning injector pump might have damaged the old fuel pump. Looks like I'm without a tractor until I can get a mechanic out here.

No fuel to injectors
Cub Cadet
Replies 27 Post by infobiker

jfortune06 has posted a new photo.

Subject: My Tractor.

Description: <br>Cub Cadet 7300 and my oldest boy

My Tractor - New Pix by jfortune06
Photos
Replies 1 Post by jfortune06

Hi Fishy,

While I was reading your post I was listening to one of our guys trying to start our spray mule--wrong day for spraying, but not my call. Any way it sounds like we have the same problem. (same engine) It sounds like a plugged idle circuit. If it's been sitting awhile, though ours hasn't, the corrosive (to aluminum carbs) ethanol/water mixture sitting in the float bowl can plug the idle jet. This is a little tiny passage. The different circuits in the carb all overlap to a certain extent. A clogged idle circuit will make the engine run leaner throughout it's operating range. I'd be willing to bet a good cleaning would solve the problem. Sometimes you can get lucky by removing mixture screws and float bowl drains and spraying carb cleaner into openings and blowing out with compressed air. Make sure you know how many turns out from full in the adjustable screws are before removing them. Note springs and such. Otherwise I'd pull the carb and do a proper cleaning-though noting settings still applies. I'll let you know what I find with ours.

07 4x2 kawa motor hard to start
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 5 Post by Trainpilot

Enjoying this tractor, fits in most peoples back yard and with garden season around the corner I am planning on being busy.
Neat thing was that the 4 wheel drive had broke, was able to buy the tractor for far less..... I work in a big shop and all we do is make gears and sprockets... :) been there so long that the company made them for free.
If you ever need hard to find gears or sprockets get a hold of me and I might be able to help.
Thank you for all your help.

Another question
Shibaura
Replies 6 Post by whtelk1

Wow Dennis, you're either REAL lucky or I just have all the bad luck ! :-)
I have two separate systems at my house, both put in around the 1950-1960 era by my father at the time. The greatest pipe at the time was the creosote orangeberg. The dingaling that back filled form him, never bothered to remove the boulder from the fill, so in time, the orangeberg was not only moved with ground movement, but crushed by the weight of the boulders.
Then one day, everything came to a screeching halt when the giant willow tree at the end of the leaching field uprooted. The root diameter was about twenty feet, and sucking every bit, though some 150 feet downstream from the tank. We did you rid-x for many years, with great digestion. Then one day, there was no more "movement" if you will. What I found afet digging up the system, was as mentioned the pipe issues, and other factors such as the various nettings of fine roots from other trees that found the moisture thru broken lines. In any event, the tank was friggin solid, pressurized to the bottom of the lid. When the pumper showed up, and I lifted the lid, I literally needed my backhoe to chain lift, as the suctioned was incredible to the solids. He took his spoon and worked that sludge for almost two hours, until he felt comfortable that he could get a good mix of water back into the tank. He then suggested the looksee downstream. I dug it up and replaced everything, but the tank, and filtered the backfill accordingly. His recommendation, was even if a good system, it needs to be religiously pumped every three to five years, depending on use of course. By no means am I saying his word is gospel, after all he is in the business and needs repeat business for survival, but a variety of factors do enter the picture that would ultimately dictate frequency of pumping out. Every system is different, every household is different, every yard is different - and local codes are different as well.
That was about eight years ago now, and had it pumped once since - all looked GOOD!
Not sure if I would try lime though without a lot of research in my neck of the woods - boney, dirt over bedrock 4'-5' down.
"If it were not for bad luck, I would have no luck at all!" The story of my life. HA!

Best,
Willie H.

Septic tank care
Home Improvement
Replies 5 Post by WillieH

I have a cub 7300 with this exact issue as well. I did adjust the relief valve in the loader control block just enough to stop the squealing when using the 3 point lift. I didn't have a gauge to measure the pressure but will do this later before using the loader for anything heavy. One thing I don't get is, why does the 3 point lift seem to put so much pressure on the system when lifting almost no weight. I currently only have a trailer mover on there which weighs maybe 50 lbs. It seems that the pressure increases greatly the closer to the top that the lift gets. Is this normal? I can see the loader hydraulic lines tighten up every time I lift the 3 point.

Hydraulic problem on MMM
Cub Cadet
Replies 33 Post by jfortune06

That's not good. I couldn't put in rubber sealant on the outside to help or anything?

Reason why older tractors especially the ones that are not made anymore like Long get to be to expensive to keep.

Fuel Injector Pump leaking
Long
Replies 7 Post by lespaulsf

Thank you for the responses. Took this good advice and drained the fluid, the filter was really dirty and fluid looked like it hadn't been changed for some time.... works great now! Thanks again! :)

SU 1540 hydraulic pump
Shibaura
Replies 4 Post by whtelk1

hi peter I two would like a copy of the hinomoto backhoe Hb501 repair manual if possible thanks stu 0402709512

Hinomoto HB501 backhoe Manuals advice
Hinomoto
Replies 19 Post by studust

Paul,

Your loader valve is located well above the sump. You'll likely not lose more than a cup of fluid when making the change. Just fasten your hoses up high so they don't drain out when disconnected. A bungee cord or wire tie works well.

Caution here.....be careful not to allow any dirt or other debris to enter the system. Clean the old valve in place prior to disconnecting anything. Power wash the old valve, fittings, hose ends, mounting position...anywhere there could be dirt and grime that could enter a fitting or hose when it becomes disconnected.

Check your current fittings to be sure they'll work with the new valve. If not, do not disconnect any other fittings until you have the proper fittings in hand.

When installing the new fittings, be sure to use some form of thread sealer. A leak at the loader valve will really cause a mess. The entire tractor will end up being covered in oil.

Find a good hydraulic thread sealer. Do NOT use Teflon tape. Teflon tape is never used on hydraulic systems, due to the fact that it will either destroy a pump, or prevent a valve from closing. That tape stuff shreds when being screwed into a fitting and small amounts of it will enter the system. If enough teflon is used, it can plug filters, sump intakes, etc.

Hope this helps.

Joel

loader control valve parts
Cub Cadet
Replies 10 Post by candoarms

Our wholesalers say they need the outside diameter of the tire. This is critical to match up properly for the drive system front and rear ratio.

Kubota B5100 replacement tires
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Art White

Well have settled on a mounting on front bumper. The weight mount has good flat surface, not the best location with FEL but a workable one.

Tool box mounting
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by kthompson

The steering pump, like the hydraulic pump, has two shaft seals, one facing into the pump, and one facing into the engine. When either(or both) of these seals fail, the pump can suck air from the engine crankcase causing the steering fluid to foam, and/or transfer steering fluid into the engine. No real reason for this to occur just because you removed then re installed the pump, but that's where your symptoms lead. Loose hose clamps or a misplaced O ring on the suction side of the pump might allow some air ingress and cause foaming, but shouldn't cause the transfer.

Overfilled crankcase - Long 350
Long
Replies 2 Post by Imfedup

Hey does the engine's sound change when you try to move it? Are you trying to move just the tractor or do you have a heavy load on it? Could clutch be slipping or could brakes be holding it?

John Deere 4010 compact utility tractor will not move
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by kthompson

Long tractors are all very similar.<br>
this manual probably has the information you are looking for.<br>
Service manual for Long 360-460-510 series in pdf.<br>
<br>
Should be very similar to 310 in nature.<br>
Not too sure but this is available here (link)<br>
<br>
http://tractorpoint.com/pdf/Long%20Service%20Manual%20for%20360-460-510%20series.pdf<br>
<br>

fill points on long 310 for trans and hydraulic system
Long
Replies 10 Post by arcwelder

Hello,

Replacing the gasket wont help, that wont fix the problem. There should not be diesel in that part of the pump, especially not that high up, internal seals are bad. There should only be motor oil in there and then only to the bolt on the lower side that you take out to fill to. If you look in the owners manual you will see that. Having diesel in the pump and then that much it will soon start to get past the front shaft seal on the pump and into the engine itself.

To get the top part off you would need to take the side cover off and undo it there. There is a 4 part video on youtube in russian were the fellow tears down and rebuilds the pump. A guy on the belarus club translated it. Take a look at that.

You can buy just the high pressure side but the problem I think is in the low side. You could reseal the primary pump which may be leaking first. Kits for that are not much and easy to do without having to take much apart, it could be leaking into the injector pump.

Belarus Nortrac 250A diesel leak
Belarus
Replies 24 Post by cowrider

Most any tire shop can order you a tire. Walmart and Tractor Supply carry some sizes. I went to Amazon and got a new pair for what the tire shop quoted me for one.
Just some thoughts

5100 front tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by jethead69

Are the poles rotting now? Are they UC-4B rated for in ground contact? If so they should last a very long long time.

poles in the ground vs concrete footings with anchor
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 26 Post by joyce1

I'm in need of a new or used tire for my B5100<br>
Can anyone help me find a 4.5 - 10<br>

5100 front tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by meadowsman1