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I bought a used 5510 john deere tractor, its a diesel and I know nothing about diesels. I live in Michigan, so I have a hard time getting it started in the winter. does anyone know if it has glow plugs. it has a air intake heater, is this sufficient for cold weather. i push the key in and hold it to activate the heater, but my light never goes off, is it supposed to or does it just say on. need help please thanks tim

John Deere 5510 Tractor hard start
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by timleeb

Look for a loose or unconnected control rod connection under the seat area.

B7510 3 point hitch won t lift bucket will
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Oldguy

The tube is a 3" diameter tubing used for various purposes. the plunger is two steel discs with the sole from one of my old shoes for the seal. The pipe going into the drilled hole is a tight fit. The whole thing has to be held down, by angle irons (not shown) on the concrete for standing on. By doing experimenting with various mixes, you will be surprised at how well this can work. The 1" diam holes were drilled (recently done work here) with drill bought from Harbor Freight. the drillers mud comes from suppliers for water well drilling (here just industrial supplier of plumbing) here called Volclay. Length of pump handle about 4 feet.

Options to raise concrete driveway
Garden and Landscape
Replies 9 Post by Oldguy

You can write to me when you need spare parts. In most cases, I can help

What Make Chinese tractor 40HP SL3105B engine
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 12 Post by wyk991604

No. When it glows they are hot enough.

MT372D Tractor How to start
Mitsubishi
Replies 9 Post by lsheaffer

randyyd,
Yes I did install a power beyond kit on my 4600 tractor. I also found and installed the mounting plates. It really wasn't that bad once I got all the right parts. I found the mounting plates on ebay where this tractor parts guy had it listed for $1800.00. I could have gotten some from a John Deere dealer that had some old stock for I think around $1200.00. So I offered the guy on ebay $1000.00 and he accepted my offer. I had to buy the right bolts from my John Deere dealer and those cost me around $100.00. The power beyond kit I bought from Greendealer for $400.00. So about $1400.00 later and I had my John Deere 48 backhoe mounted on my 4600 John Deere tractor and its ready to dig. I would keep checking the web for your parts, they seem to still be out there. Just do your research and make sure you are getting the right parts. Good Luck!
johnjlc

JD model 48 backhoe attachment plates for JD 4600 tractor
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 18 Post by johnjlc

If me reading what you have here would be to look for mice damage. kt

John Deere 5603 Tractor Not Moving
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by kthompson

Oh. In fact, we are supplier of Chinese tractor spare parts in China. Instead of sending parts to tractor owners, we hope to cooperate with parts dealers. Then, when some customers from your country ask for spare parts, I can instruct them to get from you. Save time and money.

Is there spare parts dealer for Jinma tractors
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 5 Post by wyk991604

The restrictor is actually the spark arrestor that is within the muffler (like a muffler within a muffler). Remove it and try starting it. It is not uncommon for small engines to have a hard time starting if the exhaust is clogged. Weed wackers have similar problems if the exhaust is clogged. Be sure to clean and return the spark arrestor to the muffler.

John Deere 4x2 gator will not run
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 8 Post by greenmango

We get several machines in every year do to the rodents. There are times we thought that the wire companies were using special flavors in the insulation on the wires to attract them but we haven't found any favorite colors or any one makes machines to be a plus from one to another.

Something that doesn't leave odors such as moth balls is using flashing to go around the base of the tire to the floor. It is a bit slippery for them to climb up on and if you are using 16 or 18" it is well over there reach before they can get traction. We first saw this being used in a farm magazine and to the best of our knowledge it hasn't failed yet. To leave an attachment on the ground might give them a way around so beware!

How to stop Mice Rodents eating Tractor Wiring
Parts and Repair
Replies 25 Post by Art White

and the 3 cylinder Perkins is a good motor..

230 MF fluid cap
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 3 Post by 46bugs

I don't know what happened to the post I put on here last evening.:-(<br>
<br>
[Moderator]<br>
[b]Missing Post[/b]<br>
[i]<br>
I think I have.;-) The #1 front piston had gotten so HOT that Aluminum from the piston had started to transfer to the cylinder wall. This is what seized the engine.:( I had to scrape away aluminum with my pocket knife from the cylinder wall in order to remove the piston. I just today took the engine block, pistons, and head to the machine shop. First to check for cracks (I couldn't see any), then to see how much damage has been done to the #1 cyl. bore. Good possibility that if the block is not cracked, it will need to be bored +.020 or worst case +.040. I don't think or am aware of cyl. sleeves being an option on this engine.<br>
A bit of advice:--- Guys/gals when the temperature guage, idiot light indicates things are getting hot-- [SHUT THE TRACTOR DOWN]. These kinds of repairs are expensive.<br>
[/i]<br>
[/Moderator]<br>
<br>
<br>
Anyway-- Yes, I think I have discovered what the problem was/is. the engine overheated to the point that aluminum from #1 piston had started to transfer to the cylinder wall. This is what caused the engine to seize. I just yesterday took the block, head, and pistons to the machine shop. After a brief look the machinist told me that simply honing likely will not be sufficient for the #1 front cylinder wall. He did not rule out the possibility of boring and sleeving. Their fist mission is to check the block and head for any unseen cracks. Pistons seem to be available in +.020", and +.040" oversize. The previous owner was running a six foot bush hogg behind this tractor while the radiator and oil cooler were clogged with dirt and debris. The engine overheated to the point that a 3/4" expansion plug inside the valve cover let go. This turned the water loose into the crankcase. Shortly the engine seized and stopped. <br>
A word to the wise--- when gauges, lights, and other signs tell you that the tractor is over-heating. "SHUTTER DOWN" A simple cool-down and fixing the cause for over-heating is much- much cheaper then this repair is going to be.<br>
Dan R <br>

Overheated TC33D Engine Rebuild how to Split
Parts and Repair
Replies 23 Post by gotowin

Canton,China (Guangzhou) Int��l Agricultural and Forestry Machinery Export Fair(GAFF2015)<br>
Date: May 9th-11th, 2015<br>
Venue: China Import & Export Fair Pazhou Complex(Area B) <br>
<br>
The efficient sourcing platform for worldwide buyers <br>
China is the world��s largest agricultural machine manufacturer base and the products mainly from Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guandong, ect. According to the China Agricultural Association statistics, until the end of 2011, the total national agricultural enterprises are more than 8500 companies.<br>
<br>
Meanwhile, large of Chinese agricultural machine are export to Southeast Asia, Africa as well USA, Germany and other European or America countries. In 2013, the total exports are RMB31.081 billion, increased by 6.6% compared to last year. <br>
<br>
If you want to find a good country to purchase, China is the best choice. If you want to find business platform to find suppliers, GAFF is only one choice. <br>
<br>
GAFF 2015 Introduction<br>
In order to build an export professional Platform for the global Agricultural and Forestry Machinery suppliers, GAFF 2015 expects more than 300 exhibitors with 20000m2 to showcase the latest products and display the new techniques. <br>
<br>
To make the international buyers find more good Chinese suppliers on GAFF 2015, Organizing Committee devotes to inviting Chinese suppliers to attend the show including China First Tractor Group, Foton Lovol, Shandong Juming Group, Luoyang collection machinery equipment and so on. GAFF 2015 will be the best one-stop sourcing platform for worldwide buyers.

Good Sourcing Platform for Agricultural Machinery
Everything and Anything
Replies 1 Post by grand2

By August 2014, Husqvarna has confirmed its participation in The 7th Guangzhou Int'l Garden Machinery Fair (GMF 2015).

As one of the industry's leading enterprise, Husqvarna always demonstrated in garden industry with high quality and excellent service. Also, they always ahead and execute for the promotional plans with high standard. In GMF 2015, Husqvarna had already booked twice size of booth than GMF2014, they will up and display the brand image, also will bring the latest products for everyone. Husqvarna is waiting for your visit.

Garden Machinery Fair May 2015
Everything and Anything
Replies 2 Post by grand2

after reading good advice,started at battery.2007 replaced it. cable ends where cone shaped inside, replaced cable ends(battery clamps) lights come on,but keeps blowing ignition fuse .start cleaning ignition terminals,fuse box terminals,remove and clean fuses, unbelievable amounts of dirt and grime mixed with loads of grass. now when turning key I get a click but it does not blow the fuse,ithen clean the connection on the seat switch(the seat switch does not stop the tractor from starting,it only shuts the tractor down when pressure is reliesed while pto is engadged)now I turn the key and no click the starter trys to engadge and the lights dim, so I blast the new battery with 200 starting amps and it fires up thank you so much for the expert advice saved me at least $400.00 just for the dealer to come get it and look at it im starting to like this internet thing

John Deere 4310 electrical short
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by jdurb1

ricksuddes has posted a new photo.

Subject: Stop Chewing Rodents.

Description: <br>Over 5000 people are spraying Rataway Fragrance and have saved over 8 million in
damage.Rataway Fragrance is $ 25.00 and makes a gallon, enough to spray an engine 50 times.Waterproof Rataway is two products and makes a gallon $ 33.00
Go to www.Rataway.com or call 805 646 2177 sold worldwide!

Stop Chewing Rodents - New Pix by ricksuddes
Photos
Replies 1 Post by ricksuddes

Hi from accross the pond, I have picked up a Gator TS with the single cylinder kawasaki engine that i rekon has a broken con rod. I am trying to split the engine but cannot get the variable drive off the crank. Can someone tell me what tool i need for this or is there a way to do it without the special tool, Can i make one?

TS Kawasaki engine strip
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 1 Post by lostjohn

Hey guys

I appreciate any feed back. I do make mistakes. I like to point out that I stream-line my work, which makes it easier for me to do the next time I need to do work on it.

You would have noticed that I had I already pointed out that procedure which you have suggested.

If you look under my name "HUDDLESTON", which is located on the page. Just take your cursor and place it there and click on it you will see a list of all my messages and pictures concerning the repair of the hydraulic lift.

When oil enters into a cylinder the pressure is place equally throughout the cylinder. The pressure will move the piston either in or out. When the pressure builds up to the point where it will not lift or lower the implement you will hear a noise. It will be a high pitch noise where the relief valve has open. This is a safety valve where the pressure has exceeded its potential limit where it could cause damage to the components of the system including the hydraulic hoses.

The engine speed works in correlation to the operation of the pump and the implement that is moving. The flow control valve operates the speed of movement of the implement and so does the engine speed. The faster the engine speed the faster the pump will run. Some system have a few more components in it which you need to know, if you want to know how it works

Concerning the hydraulic lift operation, which moves the piston back and forth, we have found overtime that the rubber seal and scraper combined with the rust buildup will cause some wear on the cylinder. To get it back into working operation you will need either a larger rubber seal or you will need to use a brake hone to remove any scratches or grooves from the cylinder.

If you have worked on many cars it's the same as the inside of a brake cylinder which had water buildup over the years. You will find that water within the system will cause the metal to rust, this rust will build up over time. The piston will cause excessive wear which needs to be honed or replaced.

Rust seems to collect in places where there is less oil flow or behind the rubber seals located on the pistons. This rust will lodge itself at the bottom of the rubber seal, which will move back and forth inside the bottom of the cylinder, it will continue to collect enough rust until there is enough buildup to start cutting into the metal. Usually this will happen because people don't take the time to do preventive maintenance. Oil needs to be change as well as filters. Usually a pump will fail first, however is some circumstances it will be a cylinder.

This excessive wear, will cause scratches and grooves, which will only be found in the cylinder wall where the rubber and scraper touches the bottom of the metal cylinder. If you check my messages and pictures, it will describe how the water gets into the system.

The only reason for removing the reservoir block was to repair any damage to the lift cylinder itself. You would need to remove the reservoir block from the tractor. The cylinder is bolted to the bottom of the reservoir block by bolts that come up from underneath and screw into the cylinder.

If the piston seal is compromised it will leak. A bad cylinder will not allow the piston seal to work correctly. Your cylinder may need to be machined to remove any damages.

If you have the correct oil pressure and it still will not lift, you may also have a component issues, such as a relief valve may be stuck open. If your not sure you will need to find someone who knows how to check or work on hydraulic systems. There are some components which need to be tested to see if the system is working correctly. Working with a hydraulic system can be very dangerous. You will need to purchase a "fluke" hydraulic oil pressure gauge in which to check to see if it meets the specs.

If your not sure about what your doing I can assure you that there is nothing more dangerous than a cavitating hydraulic oil pump or a weak hydraulic line. A cavitating hydraulic oil pump can explode like a grenade. A weak hydraulic hose can fail and high pressure oil can slice through flesh like a knife or worst pierce your body cavity. You will need to make sure you have enough oil in the system, the pump can't run without oil, it will pit the plates and cause excessive heat buildup which may damage the pump. Clean oil, plus a full tank of oil is mandatory, it will extend the life of the pump and the systems components.

Oh yes, someone sent me an email concerning a cylinder on a front loader. This cylinder works in the same compacity, however I need to point out that the outside elements may affect its operation overtime. When the piston pushes the rod out of the cylinder it is affected by the water, dirt and anything that might strike the clean slick shaft that fits inside of the cylinder.

Inside of the cylinder is a scraper seal that does its best to keep out the elements. Yet, overtime you will see that the cap end of the cylinder will start leaking oil. Before you remove the cylinder, which you may believe that it needs a new seal.

If the cylinder is working in the manner which it does its job. I would recommend that that you take the end cap off. You may have to buy a good spanner wrench. Mine cost over $100 dollars at Grainger supply.

You will notice that there are holes on the face of the cap of the cylinder and there are holes on the outside circumference of the cap. After removing the cap you'll need to buy a good silicone sealer and fill up the cavity at the end of cap and the seal will usually fix a leak.

Make sure that you fill the cavity behind the scraper seal. When tightening this cap down you will probably have some of the silicone come out of the cap threads and this is okay. Read the tube to see how long it takes to set up and double the time since it is inside of the cylinder. I have yet had a cylinder leak after doing this.

Another email:

Concerning about welding a hydraulic cylinder. When cylinders get old, paint falls off and you will have rust buildup at the weld seam. Overtime these seams may compromise and start leaking oil and may even split.
I'm always informing people that these are expensive parts and a little sandpaper and paint will help keep these in working order.

These aren't large splits, maybe less than 3 inches however when oil is pressurized it will spray quite a bit of oil.

It's always best XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX take your time.

One end is the cap and the other is the pin connection. You will notice the two hydraulic lines that connect to it. One hose is attached at each end. Usually at the pinned end is where the cylinder will bottom out, this is where the seals are located at the end of the shaft at the bottom of the cylinder.

When oil is delivered at the pinned in it will push the shaft out to the cap end.

When oil is delivered the the cap end it will push the seal to the pinned end.

The point I want to make is that you need to know where the seal is located inside the cylinder before you weld. Move the seal to the end furthest away from the split. Grind down the outside of the cylinder.

I want to point out that I usually do this out in field.

To tear down a piece of equipment that needs to be working is costing time and money. If I can do this without any consequences (damaging any more equipment) or violating my safety I will try it.

Everything is relative to what you believe that you can accomplish. If you have second thought this isn't for you.

This can be dangerous.

I highly recommend if you do it, you will do it in a controlled situation first. I learned this while I was in the US Navy, only by someone that knew what they were doing.

I don't take anything for granted when dealing with electricity, pressurized oil or mechanical machinery.

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If the cylinder is small in length you may want to wrap water soak rags around the cylinder to protect the seals. However you are working with high voltage electricity and it doesn't mix with water.

BACK TO THE TRACTORS HYDRAULIC LIFT.

That is why I suggested to anyone who owns a Nortrac tractor. To remove the oil from the reservoir a person needs to drill a hole in the base of the reservoir even with the bottom in which to remove water buildup. You could drill and tap a 1/4 hole and place a 4 inch pipe with a cock valve on it.

It would have been nice if the manufacturer did it.

I was asked by someone where I learned my knowledge and experience. When I graduated from high school I went to a Diesel School in Louisville, Kentucky. I got drafted in 1970 and the next day I joined the US NAVY. I went to their diesel schools to work on the big boys ( Fairbanks and Morse ), these engines were over twenty feet long and twelve feet tall. I was station on the USS Independence CVA 62.

With these big engines we hardly ever change the oil we always replenished it. The oil was always tested to see how much acidity buildup acquired over each month. Then we removed or added oil / additives to specifications that required proper operation of equipment.

Today, I still do this with most of my mechanical equipment.

I have never had a automatic transmission go bad. I always removed what was in the sump and replaced it every-time, whenever I did an oil change.

Engine oil is cheap, however it is best to change it instead of adding additives. You will notice the car manufactures keep pushing back their oil changes. The last one I notice was 6000 miles. I can only say that they want you to keep buying their cars instead of repairing them.

I change my cars engine oil and filters every 3000 miles, all the other fluids I change every 3 years. I replace all belts and hoses every 6 years. I grease all joints once a year.

My tractor I change the oil and filters once a year.
I grease every fitting every time I use it, especially the back hole and front loader. These pins need to be greased each time that you use it, they wear out quickly
in they are not greased.

Anyone can do this work, however you need to learn not only the basic mechanical knowledge, you need to learn safety protocol in dealing with these types of problems.

You always hear that when someone dies from an accident more than likely it was someones hobby. Lot of times people take things for granted if they see someone else doing it. They thought they could do this type of work too. Please take the time to learn about anything that is dangerous before you work on it.

I also went to plumbing, electrical and HVAC schools, I needed to learn this while working for General Electric Company

There are so many videos on you tube that may help. Just type google and it will take you to sites in which you may find books or DVDs to help you.

I hope this clears up any issues.

Again thanks for the reply.

Huddleston

Nortrac Hydraulic Reservoir Repair
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 8 Post by Huddleston

Thanks a lot!

Kioti 1914 Tractor Wiring Harness and Dash
Kioti Tractors
Replies 3 Post by bmulker1

"Turning the Key on nothing happens, even dash lights will not light some times do"
"Battery is new", I am assuming you cleaned the posts and cables when you replaced it.
"You have 12 Volts at the ignition", I am sorry here, I don't know what you mean, I thought the 7235 was a diesel and when I think of ignition, I think points coil etc.
"Turning the key on the voltage drops" - You don't say how much, but with only dash lights I would not expect it to go below 12.5 to 12 at the very worst as the lights should only be drawing less than an Amp. Glow plug drop would be a lot more of course maybe as much as 15 amps each and that would taper off over time.
"Fuses are good, Starter works"
The starter solenoid latch up voltage should be good to about 10 volts, 12 giving it the best contact, as the voltage drops there may not be enough energy to even engage the teeth on the fly wheel.

For all you've said, I would be looking at the wiring off the switch to be shorted someplace prior to the fuses but after the switch. About all you can do is trace it out, move the wiring bundle away from the chassis or any panels it passes through or try changing position so it has a new area of contact on the jacket or bundle.

cub 7235 won t start Wont Turn Over Glow Plugs have no power
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by taogden