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One short, three longs means "the calculated value for the coil resistance exceeds the valid range due to open or short circuit".

Three shorts, one long is a throttle position potentiometer problem which means a voltage out of range problem.

Have you driven through tall brush recently? The wiring on these tractors is under the tractor and it is somewhat common for brush to tear at the wiring and cause problems. The first step to fix would be to crawl under the tractor and trace all the wiring you see looking for and correcting any damage. When it's working again make sure all the wires are tucked up high and strapped in tight.

John Deere 4410 Transmission Error Codes
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by kwschumm

Hello guys, I've noticed the last few times I've cranked up that there is a little blue smoke coming out of a round canister to the rear of the muffler. It only lasts about 30 seconds while it warms up then stops. Tractor runs great. What's going on?

JM200 Smoking
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by bogman

I have a Kubota B7200. While going through some tall grass, the engine got bogged down so I pushed the clutch, then when I tried to move again it refused. It runs fine but the gears will not engage anymore. There was no grinding, sheering or anything before it happened. The gears just quit engaging. Any suggestions on what it could be?

Kubota B7200 Transmission failure
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by danshag

As I recall there were several threads about this. I have a 4400 8/2002 if I remember. I bought it with turfs on it. Was back at JD after reading about it here and complained and they changed it no questions.

The tractor is now pushing 2000 hours rear tires like new yet and am on the 2nd set of steer new last year.

Neighbor has 4400 with old style axle does not use it on his lawn and it still working good and it does scuff.

John Deere 4300 scuffing more and more
John Deere Tractors
Replies 115 Post by harvey

I have 2 pictures of the dip stick. Do you have an email so I can send these to you to look at.
These pics show the 2 different markings...I am hoping you can you tell me by looking at these how to read the levels.

Thanks,
Robert

Long 460 Tractor Correct Tranmission Fluid Level
Long
Replies 3 Post by robert58

treeman, is their an indication light that will come on when the cruise control is on?

New Holland TC33D Cruise Control
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by BKDT61

Does anyone have a 8240 farm pro that has some hours on it?

Farmpro 8240 long term use review
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 2 Post by dadejo

The oil light and the white exhaust are not likely related. I'm gonna assume that your tractor is wired like my YM240 was, and the oil light had 12v to it whenever the keyswitch was ON/RUN. But 12v by itself will not cause illumination. For that you need 12v to ground, and the bulb illuminates by means of a switched ground. It's switched on to test the light with the key in ON, then is switched back off when starting. Once running, it only illuminates when the oil pressure gets low enough to ground sensor leg of the circuit.

Take the bulb out of the socket and clean the base; the silver sides (ground) and the lead tip (12v). Then clean the socket; compressed air, pick, swab, small brush, whatever. You've got to make sure the sides and tip of the bulb make good contact with the sides and bottom of the socket. If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll help you with some electrical tests.

White exhaust from a cold engine is often just condensation burning off. When a hot engine cools down, condensation forms inside the pipe, muffler, exhaust manifold. It's normal, unless it persists more than 30 seconds or so. If it does, then further investigation is in order.

//greg//

Yanmar 165d - oil light not working
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 7 Post by greg_g

Hi KT, thanks for the ideas. Yes we do have the equivalent of county agents here. I will have to contact their office and see what they think.
This is family land that would only be available to me and the timber is only ten years old.
I had read a article about sawgrass or something like that awhile back and it was saying how fast it grew and it was being used for biofuel. I just wondered if anything like that would be better than pine trees.

Profitable Land Use
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by bogman

I still have my JD 60 deck that came off my JD650. It is in good condition. I was thinking $250 for the deck. I also have the electric clutch and front drive. Is that something you want too? I'm in north central Illinois.

Mid mount mower for JD 755-855-955 tractor
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 9 Post by batman

it should, I have an L3410 4x4 and it does just fine. I recently made a rake for the thing, 2in apart for the tines, just to clear rock,bushes,weeds,logs and whatever. I can lift 150, 200 lbs and want no part of this thing, it is heavy, tractor does just fine with the bucket. Only go in the ground about 2in not a ripper. the tines are 2 1/2 by 3/4 flat cut at 52 degs angle should have been 60 so the junk goes in the bucket and hard faced. A gal gave me the hard facing, so i used it. about $400.00, stoody brand name, does just what i want.

Kubota L4310 HST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by billtreat

So you would rather use the full site rather than the mobile version on the iPad?

Tractorpoint on Smart Phones
Website Operations Howto
Replies 25 Post by DennisCTB

Hi all... I'm looking for a possible fix for a 1715 4X4 that the shifter locks up between gears.. I can use 2nd & Reverse for several hours along with low & med range until it locks up... Then I need to open the transmission up & line up the gears... If I use 1st or 3rd with 2nd or Reverse, it may lock up at any time.... Then I need to open up the tramission and line up the gears again.. I was able to check the one detent spring & ball and they look fine... <br>
<br>
I'm in hopes that someone can chime in with a possible fix??<br>
<br>
Thanks,

New Holland 1715 4X4 Shifting Problem
New Holland Tractors
Replies 1 Post by fixitman

I have a F935 that just stopped moving and lost all hydraulics while mowing.It has a Sundstrand Series 15 transmission. It was not losing power it just stopped while going from forward to reverse. The mower was working fine and then just stopped moving. At the same time the steering stopped working and the lift for the deck stopped. Engine runs fine and pto works. Drive shaft is turning the charge pump. I have taken the charge pump out and checked it. When I did a charge pump pressure test it only has about 15lbs. While it was out changed the seal, bearing, o-ring and pin. Inspected pump for wear and damage and everything looks fine. Checked and cleaned charge, implement and steering relief valves. I also changed the filter. I still have no hydro. Like I said everything was working great right up to the time it stopped. I think something come apart in the transmission itself. Any help or Ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Craig

John Deere F935 Just stopped moving
Garden Tractors
Replies 1 Post by treedigger2

jump

some heavy plowing - New Pix by TumbaDowns
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by DennisCTB

Wow, I haven't been on this site in ages, and miss keeping up with some of you. Still have the TC45D, around 800 hours. The antifreeze leak was an O ring that was almost impossible to get to...can't remember if we ever did fix that, just add some occasionally. And, I'm getting old, I forgot what exactly the hydraulic leak was, but as I mentioned, still using the Boomer. I do know that the 3PH will struggle to stay up under load at idle, I'm not sure what is causing that.
Hope everyone is doing well.

New Holland TC45D Fluid leaks
New Holland Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Blueman

Well, they'd make appropriate bookends for heavy reading.

For dirt-grading, don't the mushrooms lift out easily?

For snow work, could you not replace one or both with a foot-type that fits the same mount? But would not a foot-type also etch a paved drive? The marks they make: is that what makes them terrible?

Here's why I ask. I push snow on my crowned gravel drive with one side of the blade lower than the other. Often, when the tractor is tilted because it's riding on a previouly-left snow shoulder, the lower blade corner gouges the drive.

I bought a mushroom for the lower side but haven't installed it. Do you not think it would solve the gouging problem? (Alternately, I could change the blade level on the fly, but that requires frequent cranking.)

I also do a sidewalk, and wouldn't want to etch it, so from your experience I'd have to raise the mushroom out of contact. (Mine comes with a drove of washers, whose placement determines the mushroom up/down.)

I can't turn my blade 180 but often push snow backward. I did change the mount to permit a more extreme angle, maybe 45 degrees. That way it pushes more sideways rather than pulls the snow along, and when adjusted makes a path identical to the tractor track (so if the tractor makes it though a narrow spot I know the blade won't snag anything). And I weighted it (not having power-down). If anyone's interested I'll try to post photos as you did.

Show Your Snow Removal Equipment
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 10 Post by auerbach

Hiring might be smart if an reasonable option. Think you posted your equipment but did not find it quickly, so not pin point here.
If you have a single shank subsoiler use it first. Run it about every 12 to 18 inches and yes slow as a round is only covering 2 to 3 feet of width. But you will learn a lot about the field in doing so and is a good method to remove small stumps.

You don't tell why you think the tractor is too small, are tires spinning, stalls under load, front end is light?

If you have a disk, disk it as good as you can first to cut the roots. Don't plow as deep, only as deep as it will pull steady. That might only be the root mass you are having to split, that is okay, turn it up and let it dry and then if you have a disk cut that up and then plow again deeper. If no disk skip that and try plowing little deeper turning in the roots.

If you have already tried plowing shallow (2 to 6 inches)then remove one of the plows. Which one and how simple this will be depends on your plow. If it has a trail wheel then you may have to move that to the front plow and remove the rear plow, if no trail wheel you should be able to just remove rear plow. You may not have to remove the plow for hope it has a trip or shear bolt if not be sure you run with that slow also and suggest seat belt when plowing this the first time. Plows will stop tractor suddenly and operator will not, Not fun. If it has trip or shear bolt then try flipping the plow up and it might clear enough for you.

But let's begin at the beginning: setting up for this job. I agree with Dennis on the tractor.
Are you using 4 wheel drive and the front wheels are staying firm on the ground as the plows are not picking the front end so they are getting good traction. If not then add front weight.

You have the plows set up properly, so the points are pulling into the ground and you have the plows level side to side and front to rear. Front to rear set on flat ground and side to side you will have to in the field as you plow. The right side of the plow is higher than the left due to the right wheels running in the last furrow plowed. If set properly both plows will leave the dirt the same height and width. No doubt you are using plenty of throttle and right gear. Does the plows have coulters on them (disk in front of the plows to cut vegetation for the plow)if so are they working? Are the plow points in good shape, do they still have a point or they broke or worn blunt? Are the plows rusty, if so clean the rust off. Dirt does slide easier on clean metal than rusty one. Save your oil when you do maintenance for such as oiling the plows coating the wear parts while still clean metal.

Think you were also asking for suggestion on how to plow the field itself. I doubt you have roll over plows, is so doing a lot of type for no reason. For certain you want to plow the long way if possible. Have you ever used moldboard plows before? If not: you will need to begin in the middle or on the edges of the area. Here we normally do the middle and you want to plow a perfect straight line in the perfect middle. Then you drop your right wheel of the tractor in the furrow you just did as you plow back. The next trip back you have to hold the wheel without benefit of furrow but from there easy as you will always have a furrow. Some begin at the edge and plow from edge to middle. If you do so over time end up with low spot in middle of field. You do want to disk and plow in same direction to keep the land smoother for the tractor and not riding over speed bumps!It is good to disk at some angle to your plowing but not 90 degrees or you will not like yourself.

KT

Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 5 Post by kthompson

not yet, will stop by a few tomorrow and the weekend..

JINMA 354LE QUESTIONS
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 16 Post by frhrwa

All I can tell you on hay baler is, wish could afford one. Then know what I would plant our place in.

Post the questions on hay baler in new thread, will get better attention.

Ford 850 Power steering Roll Bar add on how to
Antique Tractors
Replies 13 Post by kthompson