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I am thinking of picking up a new or used 4x4 ATV - just to go up and down a hill on my property or to take a rare trip 1 mile in the woods to my wood lot. I am not interested in top performance but just reliability and stability. Maybe a box on the back to carry a few logs or tools. I see that people are partial to Polaris or Honda on this site. Can they really zip around and up and down hills in snow? How about in 1-2 feet of snow? Would I have to look for special tires for the snow? Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated.

ATV Good in Snow
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 9 Post by ncrunch32

That is the one, the 32 oz bottle part number is 1025. Bottom shelf in thw wally worlds out here. Good stuff..I'll be swapping to the "silver" bottle in the summer. Says nothing about gelling on that one just a good additive...Jim

power service diesel treatment
Kubota Tractors
Replies 14 Post by cthonestguy

Hey All,

Just finished breaking 2.0 hours on the new BX1500, and all who said I'd love it are right. I used the rear blade to push some snow around, and once I tried 4WD, it was a breeze. I'm endlessly impressed with how strong and sturdy a machine it is. It is only marginally bigger than my Craftsman lawn tractor, but in a whole different class in terms of durability and performance. I never thought I'd look forward to mowing season (other than to have winter over with), but now I think I might feel differently. Now, I just have to save my pennies for the loader..

cg

BX1500 coming Friday
Kubota Tractors
Replies 27 Post by cityguy

I'm a newbie, trying to buy what I need, and not much more. I received the comments below from "Jarndt" in response to my question about whether the BX1500 would be capable of meeting my needs (part of a discussion thread beginning on 1/26, and titled "BX1500 Coming Friday.")<br>
<br>
From Jarndt:<br>
The 1500 is plenty for your needs. The major differences between the 1500 and the 1830/2230 are:<br>
1. 3-cylinder engines<br>
2. more horsepower/torque<br>
3. 2.3" longer wheelbase (to accomodate the 3-cyl engines)<br>
4. slightly bigger tires<br>
5. ~1" higher ground clearance (due to bigger tires)<br>
6. 60"MMM offered (54" for the 1500)<br>
7. Cruise control<br>
8. Fuel gauge<br>
9. 1.5 gal additional fuel tank capacity<br>
<br>
There may be some other differences. Art?<br>
<br>
A few things to consider:<br>
1. The 1830 has an older engine design while the 1500 and 2230 have newer model engines. Not necessarily a bad thing. Just another difference between models.<br>
2. The 2230 has about 1-1/2 times more PTO hp than the 1500, but the 1500's smaller tires put a higher percentage of engine power to the ground due to a shorter moment arm. This effectively reduces the power deficit somewhat.<br>
3. There is no appreciable difference in weight between the 1500/1830/2230 models, so the amount of work each can do will be limited to traction vs. engine power in many cases.<br>
<br>
IMHO the 2230 (along with similar models from other manufacturers) is overpowered for it's physical size and weight. Other's will differ in opinion. Don't get me wrong, I love horsepower as much as the next guy! It's a VERY capable machine, but it'll make you think that it can do more than it was really designed to do. I have never run out of power with my 1500. It'll mow tall wet grass, push heavy snow uphill, and tow a loaded trailer with ease. I'd say save $1000 and go with the 1500, or step up to a B-series machine if you want more umph. (end of Jarndt post)<br>
<br>
Art, from your perspective, are there other important differences that I should consider regarding the BX1500? Any peculiar maintenance problems/procedures? Limitations of attachments? etc.<br>
<br>
Your comments would be appreciated, sir.<br>
<br>
b

Art White--Can You Help
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by bobkro32

I have been doing research on this topic and it would seem that we are all ignorant in this area. This topic is one of much debate among electritians trying to install generator hookups that are up to code. The BIG differences are opinions on the neutral (should it be switched at the transfer switch or not) and whether or not to bond the neutral to ground. The code distinguishes between generators that are SDS (separately derived system) or not and that is one of many factors that determines whether the neutral is switched. There are also factors that determing whether a generator should be grounded or not. In most cases it is actually MORE dangerous to ground a portable (not permanently installed) generator. I have reread the posts in this thread and it seems to me that the opinion that comes closest to code for a PORTABLE (this would include PTO and all carted generators and may even include some of the larger generac systems) generator is as follows:
Install a transfer switch that switchs L1 and L2 but NOT neutral. Do NOT ground the generator with a grounding rod and make sure that neutral is NOT bonded to ground at the generator. A good site with tons of info by people who do this for a living is provided in the link.

PTO Generators Observations
Shop Tools
Replies 85 Post by AnnBrush

Werner, FYI southern NJ is not that far from me. I can be in bridgeton in 1 hour, cape may is a common fishing trip. Anyway an add is in our paper, and in my old home town. " Wood splitter 3-pt hyd hookup. valve & 24 inch x 4 inch cylinder. Excel cond. $300 Oxford PA 610-932-2508
I don't know if this sounds like a good deal or not. Just thought of you when I saw it.

JD4100 Hydraulics
John Deere Tractors
Replies 24 Post by denwood

Sold!!!! Thanks Oneace for the reasurance. Although you have not sold me on just any dealer. I will take the time to bring it to the dealer I bought it from. Although I have no knowlege of the mechanics there, I do know how they run a buisness. Also they not only have just a tractor buisness they also have 3 other locations that have logging equipment and construction equipment. Although that does not concern me, my buddy is a logger and he is the one that turned me on to this company. Has had nothing but good experiances and so far I can not say any different either.
One other thing. Since I had a small amount of hyd. fluid on the ground under the tractor when I used it last. I might as well have them take care of that also under warrenty. I was going to look inot it myself this spring but I can kill tow birds now with one stone.
Hey thanks again Oneace

New Holland recall
New Holland Tractors
Replies 29 Post by brokenarrow

Is this tractor new or used ?
If used, how many hours.

kioti
Kioti Tractors
Replies 4 Post by DK35vince

I finally got it freed up.
I tried probably all of the suggestions offered by all who tried to help me.
I really appreciate all the help.
Thank you all.

Fixing JD Differential lock pedal
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by pszikszai

OK, Lets see if the old man's got it right!
#1 Put the hydro in gear
#2 turn the key and hold in start pos, for App.10 sec.
#3 let go of key put hydro in N
#4 start the engine
Have I got it??

Glow plug click on 4110
John Deere Tractors
Replies 26 Post by jonesiera

Long posting, but some updates that might be interesting to some folks.

To answer some questions that have been posted, I have not pulled the board out yet and removed any parts to really test things, but with a quick visual inspection:

1) The board is very nicely done, but no fine pitch or unidentifiable parts that I've noticed so far. Looks like very high quality design from what I can see so far.

2) Everything is "through-hole" parts the ICs are all dips or large IGBT modules.

3) Scrutinizing it very closely with a bright light and magnifier, I could see four parts that look like they "might" have gotten too hot. Nothing is obviously scorched or charred. I like to order anything that looks suspect first and have it on hand when I begin working on the board. Usually a few dollars worth of parts not needed is worth the investment. I will often replace anything that looks even slightly suspect. If something is fried, other things could be degraded even if not completely failed.

4) Two of these parts were a pair of special MOS zeners. They looked kiind of grey and had a coating on them that could have been from overheating. 1N6303A, On Semiconductors, readily available.

5) One PWM controller UC3844A by ST, again a slightly greasy grey coating. Also readily available from stock.

6) A large Fuji discrete IGBT transistor. 1MB12-140 looks like it may have gotten hot enough to begin to vaporize the silicone heat sink grease it was mounted with. I've seen this before with power discretes. Makes a greasy grey smear all around the part and it's heatsink, which is what this looked like. This is a bit of an oddball part, no routine US distribution, the only available datasheet is half in Kanji characters with a bit of english sprinkled in for fun . VERY expensive to buy from FUJI, $33 each and $100 minimum, as in "THEY REALLY DON'T WANT TO BE BOTHERED! Any more expensive and I'd expect to get a cargo container full! One thing that makes this IGBT a little bit special is that it is rated for 1400 Vce, most IGBT families top out at 600 to 1200 volts. A 1200 volt part might actually be adequate, but I found a Fairchild part that is good for a bit more Ic, a bit more Vge voltage, and up to 1500 Vce, FGL40N150D. I am kind of figuring that in a plasma cutter, more is probably better. I'm sure transients can easily kill these circuits. Looking at it another way, this part is rated for the same values as the FUJI part at much higher temperature. These are routinely available in distribution for about $3, big difference! The parts are very similar and the Fairchild part should be a bit more robust, unless the Hypertherm circuit is designed very tightly to the FUJI part's performance. A little bit of gamble swapping it, but $100 is just kind of tough to stomache. Oh, actually I think the Fairchild part used to be a Samsung part, but Fairchild bought a bunch of discrete part families from Samsung a few years ago. I will wait to get the service manual and hopefully study the circuit very closely to see if there could be any very tight feedback or something that might be upset by a different part, but I suspect it is just a simple switch and will work fine.

7) I can't see any resistors or caps that look scorched at all.

8) My hunch? Like another posting, I am guessing that someone either hooked it up to the wrong line voltage, or did something to overload the output. They might have just run it way past its duty-cycle limits, but there is a thermal cutout mounted to the heatsink, so I think it would have protected itself from that.

Good news is that nobody has ham-fisted the circuit board and lifted pads or traces or otherwise butchered anything. It looks like new inside.

I may try to call their service department tomorrow and see if I can get someone who will talk about it with me, but I don't hold much hope for a circuit discussion with an engineer.

I did call Hypertherm today and managed to talk them into sending me a service manual. She even asked for the serial number of my unit, so I am hoping this means that the documentation will be an accurate depiction of my unit.

The schematic that I got from my friend at the service shop was kind of funny. Almost an "approximate" circuit diagram. I don't know if it is for an earlier model, or if they just intentionally obscure a lot of circuit details(?), but it clearly had about 1/4 as many parts in the diagram as my board, and what was there didn't match up very well with my circuit board. I am hoping that the documentation they are sending will be more accurate.

I've got all the parts listed above coming in a little over a week. I have pretty good connections with several industrial distributors having worked as an FAE in that industry for many years, so getting parts is not usually a problem. If you are any electronic designer getting to be friends with some FAEs at the big distributors can be worth its weight in gold. Digikey is nice, but they don't carry near everything.

I also went out this week and got some air fittings to upgrade my compressor with a good Cambell Hausfeld 5 micron air filter / vapor separator, and a desica gel air dryer cartridge. I decided to put a TEE on the output of my compressor with a separate quick disconnect and a 3' hose straight from the filter to the Plasma cutter, and the other long hose that bypasses the filter. That way I don't have to bother to use the air filter when I just want to fill tires and things, but I can use it for spray painting and other things that would like clean air. The 3' hose will help just a tiny bit to keep the flow rate up. My compressor is an 11cfm unit so it should be more than adquate.

I also have some work to do on the electrical outlets, converting to the 230V 50A socket that my welder and cutter are set up for. I have a circuit the previous owner ran specifically for a welder in my workshop, but the socket doesn't match. I'll also need to add a 20A 120V circuit there for my compressor. It doesn't like to run on a long extension cord.

Never been so excited to get cutting steel!!!

Buying a dead Hypertherm 600
Parts and Repair
Replies 13 Post by tomrscott

Something I do with the scraper blade is remove the tilt pin and let the blade float as is goes over the drive. I tried setting the 3 point arms to float laterally but it does not work as well. You can only do this on the higher end scrapers that actually have tilt adjustment. I was worried that one end would stay dropped and gouge but it seems very balanced and only dropped one time when a large chunk of snow stuck to the blade. As soon as it fell off, it leveled right out.

snow removal tips wanted - bx23
Kubota Tractors
Replies 36 Post by denwood

Is this the machine that is going to replace the 2910? I've looked at the specs, and it's size is identical to the 7800. PLUS it has all the neat gizmos that the 2910 had on it.<br>
<br>
Has any heard of a price for this machine yet?

B2630
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Jellieman

definitly bad stufF. There is a local range here in CT and they sell buckets of it cheap. It is bad stuf and a god spot for it is in the center of a cement block. They clean it up and have it in buckets already. I have a budy who buys it and make fishing jigs and sinkers with it on the stove. I told him he is nuts but he's 50 and so far he's ok but I'll bet he's up there on the lead scale. He has no kids- good thing!

Filling Tires Frozen Tires
Kubota Tractors
Replies 18 Post by cthonestguy

An L3710 sounds awfully big for 5 acres. I bought a used L3010 for 15 acres and I consider it to be sized just fine for my needs. I run a 60 in Bush Hog and a 72 in finish mower and both run beautifully. Even so, I have kept a small JD riding lawnmower with cart both to mow in tight places and get in amongst the trees to cut up deadfalls.

If you can pick up a used tractor via the web you can do what I did and go to www.ytmag.com and check out the classifieds for transportation. Truckers who haul tractors advertise there. I had two competitive offers to haul my tractor and implements at $1 per loaded mile. I went with Jason the Tractor Man from Harrisburg, PA and the tractor was delivered in perfect shape.

How big
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Paladin

Here are the area's that you need to look at below. How does the engine run once you get it started and warmed up? Could be several things causing this but Kawasaki engines are finicky about spark plugs and be sure you are using the choke properly on start up.

HPX hard time starting
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 4 Post by Chief

LabGirl, your last post puts a TOTALLY different light on this issue. If the dealer was the last to work on this machine and they removed the wheel and did not properly torque it and make note of it in the work order; you have a strong case to make the dealer repair the damage. I would be diplomatic and low key about it when approaching the dealer and they may step up to the plate and repair your tractor no charge. This is all provided that you have not exceeded the number of hours between when the dealer reinstalled the wheels and the next torque check is required. In any case, good luck with it.

4310 Rear Wheel Lug Nuts Loosening
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Chief

Is there a loader that I can get for my B-1550 HST?

Loader for a B-1550 HST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by jschauml

Not saying there is anything wrong with an OEM hoe... My comment was directed more towards the removal of the names that they OEM for is probably more an image/brand issue. I might be going out on a limb here, but I would fathom a guess that most JD backhoe owners would not know that their backhoe isn't made by Deere unless they followed forums like this or did the research.

Getting it cheaper thru the OEM manufacturer (if they sell to the public) is probably also another concern, as I have seen several examples of this on this board with NH owners being able to get the same exact hoe cheaper thru Rhino directly.

Buying a Nearly New Tractor
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by JimP

This info was taken from another forum. Sounds like Kubota has stepped into the electronic age also.

Taken from �New Features of the Kubota Grand L30 Series Compact Tractors�

The Glide Shift Transmission (GST) is original Kubota technology which provides 12 forward and 8 reverse shift-on-the-go gears without the need for clutch operation. The GST has a hydraulic clutch and transmission gears that are changed by the action of an actuator located in the transmission. When the operator initiates a gear change, the GST automatically performs a series of operations that includes disengaging the hydraulic clutch prior to the gear change, changing the gears and then engaging the hydraulic clutch after the change.

The ECU allows for a single shifting lever that actuates a potentiometer signifying the specific gear selection. In the Grand L30 series tractors, the ECU controls a proportional pressure reducing valve, solenoid valves, and performs a gear change by operating a hydraulic clutch.

With this GST system the pressurization of the hydraulic clutch can be set by a proportional pressure reducing valve for limitless stages, all of which is controlled by the ECU. The tractor is equipped with an engine tachometer sensor and a travel speed sensor, as well as a potentiometer that distinguishes the position of the gear selection lever. Based on digital signals from the engine tachometer sensor and the potentiometer, travel speed after the completion of a gear change is calculated, while the travel speed sensor calculates the actual travel speed. Based on the difference between the two speeds, the pressurization characteristics of the hydraulic fluid supplied to the clutch is set. Thus the Kubota GST brings about a smooth gear change by changing the pressurization characteristic in response to the various patterns of gear operation.

Acceleration of the tractor is calculated based on digital signals from the travel speed sensor. Under conditions when the tractor accelerates rapidly, the pressurization is changed to become slower during the pressurization process. When the tractor accelerates slowly, the pressurization is changed to be more prompt.

After the hydraulic clutch begins engaging and the acceleration of the tractor starts, the acceleration is calculated and the pressurization characteristic is compensated. Tractors may be equipped with a variety of different implements according the context of work users wish to perform. In particular, when an extremely heavy implement is attached to the tractor, acceleration does not occur until the compensation begins, which makes gear change time much longer. Therefore the compensation of the pressurization characteristic based on the total tractor weight is realized. The offset can be input using the �Adjustment Mode� of the IntelliPanel, with the correct offset stored in ROM. The ECU of the GST takes in the correction value by communicating with the ECU of the IntelliPanel and compensates the pressurization characteristic.

L 3130 GST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Billy