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Lastly, rent a small roller for a day to pack it down. Otherwise you'll get ruts right back where you drive every day.

Best way to Maintain Gravel Drive
Tractor Projects
Replies 7 Post by chashm

How cold was it? Did your diesel gel up in the fuel filter? Happens to me if I forget to put anti-gel in the fuel and it gets colder than about 20.

You bled it at both the filter and at the injection pump?
Make sure you're getting 12V to both the 'pull-up' and 'run' terminals on the shutoff solenoid. The pull-up coil is only energized when the key is in 'start', the 'run' has 12V whenever the key is 'on'. Both coils should have low resistance to ground.

Some people have reported similar "can't-restart" when the battery is weak, try jump-starting the tractor with your car. A replacement battery is a heck of a lot cheaper than an injection pump rebuild!

Cub Cadet 7235 Fuel issue
Cub Cadet
Replies 3 Post by chashm

Actually, I'd suspect the starter replacement....

Starting at the battery, you have a really thick cable that's hooked to the negative terminal and is attached to the tractor frame or the engine. Make sure it's connected at both ends. This is not likely the issue.

There is a really thick cable that's hooked to the positive (red) battery terminal and goes straight to the starter. It's usually a ring terminal on the wire that's held down with a nut on a threaded post sticking out of the starter. I presume your father got this cable right. In most cases, the rest of the tractor's electrical is fed via a smaller wire that's connected to the same post on the starter. My guess is this is not connected to the starter post. If it is, trace it; there may be an inline fuse that's blown. It will generally head to the ignition switch as one of the wires on the switch will be the 12V feed for lights, instruments and when you turn the key to 'start'.

The service manual for your tractor should have a wiring diagram of some form in it. that will clarify the wiring The manual is usually a good investment if you plan on self-maintaining the tractor beyond changing the oil & greasing it.

New Holland t1510 electrical problem
Parts and Repair
Replies 9 Post by chashm

Try new fuel and add some cetane booster. Somewhere in the 7305 is some widget that messes with the fuel & intake systems when the engine gets warm; it'll run fine for a few minutes when cold then sputter/lose power/die with the widget kicks in. Kinda like an automatic choke on a carbureted gas engine, but I'm sure that's not how it's rigged.

I trust it's warm enough already in NH that your fuel isn't waxling up in in the fuel bowl? Usually a below-freezing issue...

Cub cadet 7305 no start
Cub Cadet
Replies 18 Post by chashm

Glow Plugs - 5 seconds is about right, and is plenty even when it's cold out. You may get some black smoke & rough idling for a minute or two till the engine warms up some.
Remember that #2 diesel that doesn't have antigel added will wax up and clog everything in the fuel system if the temp goes much below about freezing. Then you may be stuck till spring...

Tach sender - it looks like it's on the right side of the engine near the front from the parts diagram. If this is a brand-new tractor, get the dealer to repair under warranty. Otherwise the sensor is pretty pricey; check the wiring thoroughly first. Also, the ignition switch may be funky as I think you're saying the tach works when the switch is at 'start' but not when it's at 'run'.

(Old tractors - mine is from 2003ish - used a speedometer cable to drive the tach and the 'hour meter', which really counts engine revs but displays hours (divide revs by revolutions-per-hour at a normal operating speed); this is nominally a better gauge of when to change the engine fluids than strictly on-hours.)

Cub Cadet 6284D Hydrostatic transmission slow speed
Cub Cadet
Replies 18 Post by chashm

I have a CC 7305, which seems to have the same injector solenoid and a similar injector pump (my 30hp just needs bigger squirts or fuel). 1/16" seems a bit short of a throw for the solenoid.

There are two wires to the injector solenoid. The pull-in coil is connected to the Start contacts on the ignition switch and thus is energized only when the starter motor is engaged. This coil takes a lot of juice and can't be engaged for long or you'll burn out the coil - not a real issue when the tractor is running right. The other coil, call it the 'keep pulled' coil, is connected to the Run contacts on the ignition switch. This coil is energized till you turn the ignition switch to off, at which time the solenoid disengages and the injector pump stops pumping.

If you have an ohmmeter, check to be sure both coils are still good (have a bit of resistance); you've checked this. (The lower-resistance one should be the pull-in coil.)

Next check is to run a wire from your battery's positive terminal to each of the solenoid terminals while you look thru the injection pump inspection cover. If one of the terminals moves the solenoid rod a 1/4" or so, you've found the pull-in coil.
Next start working your way back from the solenoid to the ignition switch; does the pull-in coil wire get voltage when you go to 'start'? If not you've got a wiring problem or maybe a blown fuse although I don't think there's one dedicated to the solenoid.

Assuming the solenoid is OK, A 'bailing wire' fix would be to rig a push-button to energize the pull-in coil just before you turn the key to Start.

It's possible the governor is stuck, but unlikely. In summer the glow plugs shouldn't be necessary.
Good luck!

7194 fuel shut off solenoid removal
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm

This could be as simple as a bad battery connection - or a battery that's suddenly failed. Diesels will run without any electrical power, the only thing needing juice being keeping the shutoff solenoid energized.

New Holland TC26DA Ignition Switch Issues
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by chashm

Uuuuhhhh....
Are you sure you poured the 4l of hydro into the hydraulic reservoir and not into the transfer case?
(Admittedly, it's hard to screw up as probably the only place to fill is the dipstick plug hole.)

Foton 45 3PH will not lift
Parts and Repair
Replies 15 Post by chashm

Oh, and hook the pump to the 'engine on' circuit, not to Start or Glow Plug. You'll want it running continuously if it's needed.

Yanmar Fuel pump or primer bulb
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by chashm

This might best be posted in Garden Tractors - Cub Cadet

None of these comments are specific to your machine...

- If you disconnect the fuel line at the carb, does fuel flow out? (Do you have a plugged fuel filter somewhere?)
-If you disconnect the fuel line under the tank, does fuel come out? (some tanks have a filter in the bottom)
- Is this the first time you've run the machine in a while (months)? If yes, then it's likely you have a gummed up carb from gas that's dried out and you'll need to disassemble the whole thing and clean all the nooks and crannies. I have a quart can of Gunk parts cleaner that's over 20 years old but takes care of this in fairly short order.
It will be of use to have a carb rebuild kit on hand in case you muck up any gaskets or the valve parts aren't reusable. You will need the make/model of the carb and/or the details of the engine make/model to buy it. From what I see on PartsTree, they aren't cheap...

- Is the fuel bowl(s) on the carb filling? Usually it's on the bottom, but I see from PartsTree that the bowls are on the sides of the carb. No easy way to check this if there isn't a bowl drain. If the bowls are not filling, the fuel inlet valve is probably stuck closed.
- Are the needle valves & metering holes plugged? Again, almost impossible to tell without disassembling the carb. You can try moving the needle valves out and back in (count turns!) and sometimes this is all it takes.

- Or do you have an air problem? I had an ant nest in my splitter engine between the air filter and the carb. I wouldn't have spotted it if I hadn't taken the whole filter assembly apart to get to the carb itself.

Cub Cadet 3185 fuel problem
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm

The female connector housings on the wiring harness that connect to the headlight pigtails on the grill have gone the way of old nylon. These are 3-pin things using standard 1/4"/6.3mm quick-connect blades. No markings on the connectors (of course).<br>
<br>
I found a web reference to the Stanley PN 001-1726 on the headlamp socket/pigtail assembly that implied these were also used on a JD 175.<br>
<br>
Anybody know of a source for the connectors or connector housings?

Replacement harness headlight connectors - CC 7305
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm

I assume you meant you bled the system by using the bleed screw that's on the injector pump?

Now it sounds like it's time to check the injector pump solenoid. It's on the rear (rear = towards the back of the tractor; on the left as you face the right side of the tractor) of the injector pump and should have probably 2 wires connected to it.

If the solenoid doesn't pull in when you turn the key to Start and stay pulled in when it's in Run, you'll never get the tractor to run as the function of the solenoid is to turn the engine off by cutting the fuel flow to the injectors.

No fuel to injectors
Cub Cadet
Replies 27 Post by chashm

According to the 476 parts book:
"WM-58625 Valve, 2 Spool Monoblock, 1800psi"

So I would expect it should be set to 1800 psi, eh?

btw, you can get the owner's manual for the 476 online at
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/OperatorManualView?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=14101
then enter the model number 590-476-100. The 476's control valve is rebuildable; the parts page lists a detent kit, a spring center kit, a seal kit and a load check kit.

Front End Loader relief valve squeals when 3 point is used
Cub Cadet
Replies 11 Post by chashm

Hydraulic Block

Cub Cadet 7360 addiing rear hydraulics
Cub Cadet
Replies 41 Post by chashm

My guess is a previous owner took the original fuel filter assembly out of the fuel line where the in-line is because she couldn't find or didn't like paying for the canisters. I'm surprised as your machine only has 300 hours on it; the manual says change the filter at 500 hours.
You might try looking for an aftermarket filter bowl assembly at your local farm store (Tractor Supply, etc.) or get one out of a farmer's junkyard.

If it's really -23 F you're not likely to get and keep the tractor running with #2 Diesel no matter how many additives you put in it. #1 (close to kerosene) maybe. Nominally 'your dealer' should have a chart or advice on diesel mixes in your area for real cold weather appropriate for your machine.

Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel
Cub Cadet
Replies 40 Post by chashm

Parts manual: I use partstree dot com (there are others but they seem to all share the same data) - you won't find a schematic but the parts diagrams will show you the various pieces, including the glow plug relay and controller for a 7260.

Alternator: Assuming you can get the engine running, is the alternator doing its thing? You should have a pretty constant 13.6V at the battery even when you turn the lights on an off (try it with the flashers; they're a pretty big drain when on).

Looking further in the parts book (I have a paper one as well), all the 7xxx (7260, 7305...) tractors have the glow plug relay and controller/timer listed. I bet the original design was the operator was to turn the switch to 'heat' for 3-5 seconds and then to start. People were burning out glow plugs by heating too long so they added the relay and controller/timer. Or maybe the contacts inside the ignition switch are underrated & the switch was burning out. Since I can hear the relay click when the light goes out, my guess is the timer & relay are behind the dash or kickpanel somewhere and wired to the G1 and G2 terminals on the ignition switch.

Once you find the controller/relay and one or the other is bad, you could rig the wiring back to the original, cutting out both the relay and the controller (thus risking the switch). If the controller is the problem, then you could rig the switch G1 & G2 directly to the relay coil, cutting out the controller. You'd have to remember to only heat the glow plugs for a few seconds, but if you're the only user, this shouldn't be a big deal. And you already have a set of probably perfectly good glow plugs should you burn one up.

It's too cold here to go take this apart on my tractor just for a look-see...

Cub Cadet 7260 Glow plug issue
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by chashm

There's a fuse for everything but the starter motor located in a holder on the left side of the engine; a wire goes from the battery + to the starter then then to this fuse (there's 2 fuses in the holder; one for the main electric and one for the alternator). It's probably on the order of 50 amps.
But judging from your symptoms, it's not a blown fuse but it may be corroded enough to not work.

You may have a corroded connector somewhere along the way from the battery to the key switch. According to the schematic there's a connector between this fuse and the key switch, which I think is behind the dash.

Another test to do is to check to see the battery voltage to ground as you turn the key. The negative should stay at zero (or very close to it) and the positive should stay around 12V. If the negative floats up, the battery cable is not well connected to the frame. If it's ok and the + drops alot, you have a bad battery, no matter how new it is.

cub 7235 won t start Wont Turn Over Glow Plugs have no power
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by chashm

Not that I've done this myself but the pages from the service manual about the MFD hub basically says once you get the hub assembly off the axle by taking the 6 bolts around the outside out and prying the hub cover and axle assembly out and then you have to:<br>
1 take off the circlip at the inside end and pull the inner bearing.<br>
2 push the stub axle-wheel mount out of the hub cover and gear with a press.<br>
3 take care with the various spacers to keep them together there is a critical measurements to meet at assembly. <br>
4 remove the inner bearing with circlip as needed.<br>
5 looks like the axle oil seal is pressed out from the inside and installed from the outside.<br>
6 reassemble. Shims to be recalculated per the manual. Presumably if you're replacing the bearings like for like the shimming will not change but probably advisable to buy the shim kits if things do change. <br>
7 The inner bearing is put on by heating to 250F at which point it should slide on. Probably should clean it of any oil or grease before heating.<br>
<br>
The full LH assembly seems to be available for like US 830 new but the RH isn't at partstree.com. Bearings and an oil seal will run you US 60ish plus another US 17 for shim sets. Used assemblies would require finding one in a junk yard - lots of luck.<br>
<br>
See the link for the relevant manual pages.

Front axle repairv- need information and help
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm

Well, Cobraman, that is a pickle, ain't it? Cub Cadet's compact tractors were never as popular as Deere or Kubota and these CC models (7000 series) are all orphaned, although getting parts isn't too difficult, fortunately. So, not a lot of used inventory anywhere.

Calling a couple of local CC dealers MAY turn up a way for them to check inventory across multiple dealers; you're likely to have to find a 457 that's attached to a tractor and then get the dealer to let you buy just the 457. Plus freight from wherever.

That's why I mentioned Woods. They're in the business of making aftermarket backhoes to fit lots of machines and they're likely to be able to make the subframe and related parts that fits one of their backhoe models to your machine. A phone call to Woods or a dealer near you (see their web page at www.woodsequipment.com)will get you an answer.

On the other hand, maybe you just want to trade in your 7205 for something already with a backhoe & loader?

cub cadet 7205 need backhoe attachment
Cub Cadet
Replies 7 Post by chashm

The 7205s backhoe from Cub Cadet was the model 457. These backhoes have a subframe that hooks onto a bracket on the front of the transmission case, approximately under your feet, and to the top link (with a special high strength top link.

Most of CCs big implements were actually made by Woods Equipment. They can probably make up one that exactly fits your tractor if you don't mind buying new.

Note that if you do not have a loader you will need front weights and it will not work as well as when you have the loader lifting the tractor off the ground in the front.

cub cadet 7205 Which backhoe will fit
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 2 Post by chashm