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Had to add my reply here. I work in a Soils mechanics laboratory. We determine what compaction is needed and the rate of settlement on construction projects. Depnding on the lay of the land, and your soil type you may not need to get rid of 8'10" of soil. First and foremost is to correct any drainage problems before starting on your pad.
You may have to ditch or trench to redirect the water away from your pad. Save this material. Now remove your top soil with any organic material from the pad area. You can build up your pad area with soil (cheaper than gravel) (any soil as long as it doesn't contain organics). I would suggest using a plate tamper here you can rent one faily cheap. Compact in layers(lifts) no greater than 2-4". Sprinkle with water as you compact. the water addds in achieving maximum density. I would suggest using a landscape fabric on top of your earthen pad. Now you can add your gravel here. A word of caution, You do not want a pourous pad under your concrte when you pour. The water will drain out of the concrete from the under side and be weak. You should have enough fine material to compact your top layer very hard. THe organic topsoil you removed from the pad area can now be used around your pad to achieve the proper grade for drainage away from the base. Plastic can be added added underneath the slab before the pour. This will help your slab cure slowly. If you do a monolithic slab my suggestion would be to use rebaron the edges and thicker members. When curing your pad, let it dry slowly. Concrete reaches maximum strength in 28 days. The greatest strength is achieved in the first 5 days. Don't use any deicing salts on concrete for the first year or it will spall. Sorry about the long post but I really like to see a job well done that looks good and last forever. Most concrete cracking can be attributed to drying to quickly or a poor foundation (not enough compaction). You tractor doesn't exert enough compaction if you are more than 4 inches thick. Use a plate tamper, you won't be sorry.

Gravel Compaction under Conc Slab Floor
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 14 Post by SOB

Hi Guys, just wonderin.... I'm in NJ, I got a price of 17,000 for a TCD29 with Super Steer and with a loader with 200 hrs on it. It was used only to cut grass and do light work. It looks in good shape and still has 1 yr warrenty on it(I think) First.. does this price sound decent?? 2nd, is this tractor big enuff to pull a 5' brush hog, and do general farm chores???? <br>Thanks Alot!'<br>SOB

TC29D Price
New Holland Tractors
Replies 8 Post by SOB

Thanks for all your help folks! I'll keep you posted.

Sean

Hooking up an electric fence
Parts and Repair
Replies 12 Post by SOB

Hi. I've got 4 different pastures, 10 acres in all. I've been brush hogging it for the past 2 years. I've got a lot of weeds, ragweed, stuff like that. I have a few cows and horses. What can I do to the fields, and when to make them a little more grass and a little less weeds??? I try to york rake out and spread all they're manure. Don't know if its making any difference... Thanks for any advice.

Prepareing fields
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by SOB

Thanks for all your input guys. I guess it'll come down to $$$$. I could live with either or.

Difference between the TC33 TC33D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by SOB

Bird:
I'm in NJ. I plan to have a few goats or sheep in my fields. There's a little Timothy mixed in with the grass but it's mostly orchard grass. A local guy stopped over and told me that I don't have hay.. I just got really long grass. Now what??

Growing Hay
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by SOB

Thanks Michael. So I guess after strugling w/ the non live pto on my old ford 9n, the live pto would be more helpfull. Especially when starting and stopping w/ a 5' Brushhog...

TC29SLIVE
New Holland Tractors
Replies 25 Post by SOB

Thanks Murf! I've gotten alot of helpful info from you guys.Now I just have to go out and kick some tires.......

HELP Which one Orange or Blue
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by SOB