Go BottomBAD MOTOR
 | Justin Barnes
Join Date: Posts: 1 
|
2003-02-16 49378
Hi this is Justin Barnes from Belgrade MT. Our school bought a 4WD LB 1914 in 98 and a year ago sent it to our school shop because it wouden't run. As a student I don't know much on diesels but I do know that 140LB of compreshion isn't enough. I smelled gas in the tank as a fairly new tractor what could be posibly be wroung??? School whants to get rid of it so if I get it running they said I could keep half of the $$$$
THANKS!!!!!
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoBAD MOTOR
| DK35vince
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 689 Western,Pa. 
|
2003-02-16 49379
You smelled gas in the tank ??
I hope you don't mean gasoline. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoBAD MOTOR
| DK35vince
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 689 Western,Pa.
|
2003-02-16 49380
Is it getting air ?
Is it getting fuel to the pump ?
Is it pushing fuel out of the pump ?
Does it have a compression release that could be pulled on or stuck open ?
Does it shut down with the key ? If so is the solenoid on the pump turning on and off ?
Could be any number of things. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoBAD MOTOR
| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
|
2003-02-17 49387
Figuring this could be a tall order. You can't do much without a service manual for the tractor and service manuals aren't very good places to do basic learning about diesels. I bought a JD FOS-Engines manual that is pretty good with the basic stuff for both gas and diesel engines.
140-lbs. compression does sound low but I don't know how it was measured. Compression gauges for diesels usually have screw in adapter that goes in an injector or glow plug hole. Compression in an engine that hasn't run in a long time also might read low. If the tractor has been well maintained, hours on the meter may be a better indication of engine condition than provided by a generic compression gauge.
It would be good to get organized with a testing plan or you may end up testing around in circles. First, I'd put fresh fuel in the tank (some people have been known to add gasoline to diesel fuel in the winter but it's not such a good practice). I'd also change the fuel filter and bleed air from the filter bowl and injector lines, and change the air filter as well. Changing the filters is a good check for obstructed fuel lines or intake manifold.
For an organized testing plan, diesels are pretty simple, they just need air, fuel, compression and heat at start-up. Testing is a matter of verifying in order that an engine is getting all four. Heat at start-up is usually produced by a combination of compression, optional pre-heating system, rpm from the starter, and of course air and fuel too. So maybe testing does go around in circles no matter what.
If you don't know diesels, there are some safety hazards to know about when working on them that are different than ones for gas engines. For example, injection lines can contain fuel under high-enough pressure to penetrate skin or an eye even when the engine isn't running. It'd be very good to get a repair manual to follow proper testing and safety procedures.
....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoBAD MOTOR
| KIOTIMAN
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 47 ,MI
|
2003-02-17 49405
IF YOU SMELLED GAS HEY! THAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoBAD MOTOR
| Woodbeef
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 63 Canada
|
2003-02-17 49421
Yup,I'd be kinda wondering about that gas smell myself,right from the get go! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo
Go Top
Share This