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 | phil
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1999-05-26 4345
I'm in the market for a 5' rotary cutter w/ stumpjumper, slip clutch and laminated tire that will handle 2" saplings. Would like some feedback on experiences people have had with the various cutters currently available. Advice, suggestions, etc. are very much welcome, as are comments on what features to look for. Thanks.
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| Stan in NE PA
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1999-05-26 4350
Hi Phil, I have a Bush Hog SQ-60, that's a 60 in, or five foot. It has the slip clutch, and laminated wheel, and seems to work great. I've used it with my Oliver 1250 (35 hp?), but am getting a new Boomer TC29. I expect it'll have enough power. I've cut a lot of Hard Hack, and Blueberry bushes, which are much tougher than saplings. Not intentially, I've also made a lot of smaller rocks out of bigger ones. It still keeps working. By the way, to my way of thinking the slip clutch is much better than shear pins. Before I got mine, I borrowed a friends and spent as much time replacing shear pins as I did cutting. I told you the Hard Hack and Blueberriy bushes were tough. ....
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| Doug in NW PA
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1999-05-28 4428
I just bought a Bush Hog SQ72 and am very happy with it (havn't sheared the pin yet.....) and it has done a fantastic job with saplings 2-3", chops them right up you don't even know it was there. I just mowed 40 acres of pasture that haven't been mowed in several years with it and my L-3010 and had a blast doing it!!!!! ....
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| Rich
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1999-05-30 4495
I have had two cutters in the last 15 years. The first was an old 5'New Idea with a slip clutch. I mowed twenty acres with it on my MF TO35, mostly hilly pasture with overgrown scrub. I routinely cut thick stands of young trees up to 2" in diameter, riding them down with the heavy Massey. I had lots of trouble with the slip clutch as it seemed always to be too tight or two loose. and changed its grip with the weather and state of moisture, etc. I had it fail to release when hitting a stump, and to slip continuously while cutting tall weeds. Replacing clutch discs was expensive and VERY time consuming. I now have 5' Howse on a Ford 1900 diesel and it has a shear pin which is easy to replace. I now question the advisabiliy of trying to cut trees over and inch or so in dia with a small tractor. It cant be very good for the engine and drive train, or anthing else for that matter, and now wear out my chainsaw rather than my tractor. You also must be careful mowing saplings as they can dislodge or break hitch pins and other links beneath the tractor. Make sure your mower is STRONGLY secured at all points, I had a mower crawl up my back when brush passing under the tracor pulled out the lynch pin that secured a lower lift arm to the chassis. When I made a turn the mover caught the rear tire tread and climbed the back of the tractor, the blade whirling too close to me for comfort. Some tractors have what I consider weak three point linkages. I remedied mine with the highest grade steel bolts and nuts secured with lock washers and cotter pins, and check them before every mowing. Also be sure your top link is very strong as cutting brush puts a big load on the front of the mower. If the top link breaks the mower can pivot on the lower arms and flip forward, crushing the operator. Mowing brush is VERY dangerous and requires contant vigilance, so be careful and good luck. ....
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| Alan
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1999-05-31 4565
I have a 5 foot Rhino cutter (SE5) I have only used about 10 hours or so. It has worked great in some real thick and tall weeds and honey locust trees. Some cedar elm, mesquite, and cedar trees also. I have 24 acres, about 12 of which is woods, the other half I mowed for the first time in 15 years. It was really a mess. I ran over trees about an inch or so and smaller - went around anything larger. I ran over some 2 inch trees accidentally with no problems, but I prefer to use the chain saw the bigger stuff. Plus, as far cedar elm, I want to keep them if they have gotten that big already.Anyway, thats not a lot of use to draw from, but it seems to be a really good piece of equipment. I haven't sheared a pin yet. Pull it with a Kubota B2710. ....
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| Doug in NW PA
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1999-06-02 4637
I am surprised that you have had so much trouble. I have approx 40 acres that I just finished cutting that had not been cut in several years....several saplings 2" + and the weight of my bush hog (700lbs) holds down these saplings not to mention that the blade cutting into the sapling quickly pulverizes it, eliminating the upward pressure on the bush hog. I don't know that much about the Ford 1900 but my Kubota L-3010 (32 hp, 27 at pto) had more than enough power to go thru heavy brush and saplings with little or no drop in rpm's, no strain.Wathing the 3 point during these operations I did not see any stress being placed on any of the pins....I don't know if I was just being lucky or not. Hope some of this of help. ....
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| bob
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1999-07-26 6323
Just to pass on a comment from a local farmer. If you are going to cut 1-2" saplings it is a good idea to not go back over that area since the jagged "stump" that is left can be extremely bad for tires especially if you have a heavy tractor.I use a Rhino SE5 and it works great. ....
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