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JD 4300 Sheared off shift shaft

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Woodenspars
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 6 Coastal Maine
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2009-03-21          161303

I have a JD 4300 with HST transmission. There is a shaft that enters the final drive that is used to shift between the three speed ranges. That shift shaft has sheared off right where it enters the final drive housing, on the left side of the tractor, behind the HST. I realize that the other end links up to a internal lever that is fitted to a shuttle assembly/ gear forks.
My question is if anyone has experience and tips on accessing this lever and it's roll pin from the back end and top of the tractor? I want to avoid completely splitting the tractor to access it. I obviously need to replace the broken shaft. The dealer has done a similar repair several years ago, and estimates it to be an 8-12 hr job. Are there any technical pitfalls or special tools required to break down the back end of this tractor? Thank you.
Woody


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JD 4300 Sheared off shift shaft

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AnnBrush
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 463 Troy OH
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2009-03-23          161336

I have exactly the same model 4300 HST and the shifter has always seemed stiff going from range A to C through neutral. I have o really push the lever hard, most times it just stays in B. ....

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JD 4300 Sheared off shift shaft

View my Photos
Woodenspars
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 6 Coastal Maine
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2009-03-24          161365

This shaft is actually manufactured with a groove or "scoring" at the point where it enters the transmission case, so it is ready-made to fail at that point first. Not very thoughtful of the engineer who designed this part that is linked to a long lever (the shifter).
I may try to drill and tap the end of the shaft, then pin the shaft together with the part that remains attached to the shifter rod. I will either fashion a "keyway" in one side with a "key" to keep the tapped pin from rotating and backing out, or drill another hole in the edge of the shaft and insert a roll pin into the mated ends to accomplish the same thing. Although this sounds a bit involved, I think removing the left rear wheel for access and drilling some holes in what would otherwise be trash is at least worth the try.
The alternative is the 12 hr estimated repair job by the local dealer.
I also mostly use 'B' range, so I am glad it broke while in that selection. The dealer did not feel there was any risk of operating the tractor this way.
Woody
....

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