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 10-19-2004, 17:33 Post: 98757
taheide



Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Capron IL
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 How To help

Looking for some help on how to adjust the grader blade, landscape rake, and box scraper to acheive maximum results. I have a Kubota B2410 with a 5' box scraper, 6' landscape rake and 6' grader blade. I use a quick hitch adapter on the 3P, which works well for everything I own including the 5' tiller and 6' finish mower.

I am putting in an 80' by 150' arena using crushed lime, and I am ready to start spreading and leveling it off. The landscape rake I tend to use to clear the leaves out of my rather large tree infested yard. For smoothing I have an 8' x 4' chain drag harrow.






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 10-19-2004, 19:11 Post: 98765
WPHill



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 How To help

Taheide, I don't own a grader blade, but spend alot of hours with the boxblade. So I'll try and explain. Park your tractor on a level area and set the box blade on the ground. Look at the cutters and adjust them with the top link. I run mine level, which gives good depth cut both forward and reverse. Just keep adjusting it and find out what works for you. Good Luck, and have fun.






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 10-19-2004, 19:42 Post: 98770
hardwood

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 How To help

theide: After moving and leveling the lime with your box blade, hook up the landscape rake and I think you'll be as amazed as I was the first time I used mine to fine grade crushed rock and lime chips. Really nothing special to know about using the landscape rake for grading, just start doing it and it just kind of comes to you after a while. Best of luck. Frank.






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 10-19-2004, 20:53 Post: 98776
beagle

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I added a hydraulic top link to the 3-point for box blade work. It really helps control how aggresively the front blade will cut, and how well the back blade will smooth. Tilt forward for a more aggresive cut, tilt back for smoothing. You can do this manually without a hydraulic link, it is just a lot easier and faster with the hydraulics.

I have messed around a little with the hydraulic link with the nieghbors rake, it seems to have the same effect, but opposite. Tilt forward for smoothing, tilt back for more aggressive raking.

The rest is just practice.






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 10-20-2004, 09:13 Post: 98801
taheide



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Hardwood, so if I raise the front blade, do I go forward to smooth with the rear blade? I did get it to cut nicely using the front blade, but still dont have the hang of smoothing things level with it, and I dont have a clue on how to use the grader blade, other than to clear snow from my driveway.






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 10-20-2004, 09:21 Post: 98804
beagle

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With the blade tilted back, go forward to smooth the cut. The "back" side of the back blade is not in position to cut with the blade tiled back and you moving forward. This also allows any soil to leak from the sides of the box as you move forward since the front of the box sides are off the surface.






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 10-20-2004, 09:27 Post: 98805
taheide



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AHHH I have never tried that! Now that makes more sense than driving around backwards to spread the soil, or in my case fine clay dust, ick, coughed that up for a week. As for the hydraulic top link, what is needed to do that? I use one of those spedlok quick hitch adapters that is a permanent fixture on my tractor, so adding a hydraulic top link would be a good addition, and now that I think about it, that would make hitching up some of my stuff easier since I wouldnt need to remove the top link pin to change the bracket position.






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 10-20-2004, 11:47 Post: 98816
beagle

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You need rear remote plugs. With your 2410, that shouldn't be a big issue. I'm not sure if you have a reat hydraulic block on the 2410 or not. If not, you run it off the PB port of the FEL valve. TractorSmart has kits for the rear remotes, or you can do it like I did and buy the parts and hook it up yourself. ( See pics 2 and 5 for the valve location I used ). I added the rear remotes originally for box blade work.






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 10-20-2004, 12:59 Post: 98829
MadRefereee



Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: New Hampshire
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 How To help

The B2410 has the cover plate for the aux hydraulic block, same as the B2710 and B2910. This makes connecting rear remotes much simpler.






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 10-20-2004, 15:34 Post: 98833
taheide



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Nice setup. I see you made your own sprayer as well. I should get my stuff together and take some pics. I had an old garden cart that I converted to a sprayer using a 65 gallon tank, a roller pump, some valves, a regulator and built the spray arms using 1" square tube. It has a 12' span. The first time out I found I used the wrong type connectors for the pump and cracked one, now I have 90* ones that will allow for the pump to move without stressing the connections. I have some mods left to do on it, like remote valve control and hydrualic lift arms for the spray booms.






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