Post Hole digger info needed: Tractor Implements  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Post Hole digger info needed: Tractor Implements -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 07-22-2005, 11:49 Post: 113766
ltaafd



Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mid MI
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 Post Hole digger info needed

We are looking at a Kubota 7610 and we need some info on a good Post hole digger for that unit. Auger sizes 6 and 9 inch. Any good units? Price? Length of Auger?

Thanks
KC






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 07-22-2005, 19:31 Post: 113786
Art White



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 Post Hole digger info needed

I normally recommend to go one heft stronger then needed. I'd recommend a unit that would take a maximum of 12" auger if 9" is your prefered size. If the ground is rocky get a single flighted auger and if it is sandy then get the double flighted. The more teeth the better and they should be made of good quality material as they should be kept sharp.






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 07-22-2005, 20:57 Post: 113790
earthwrks

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 Post Hole digger info needed

According to the specs here on the site it says your tractor will lift 1365lb. but that is at the lift arms---the auger attachment which goes out much farther greatly lessens the lifting ability due to leverage and weight of not only the auger unit, the auger, the dirt on the flighting--- but more importantly the adhesive properties of an auger in dirt, not to mention getting the auger stuck in the hole from a rock or small root jamming the auger. I don't know where in Michigan you are, but down here near Detroit in heavy clay soils I have gotten my 16" auger stuck several times using my big skid steer loader (a.k.a bobcat) which can lift over 5500lb. Luckily, my hydraulic auger drive unit is rated at 1700 lb.ft. of torque and is hydraulically reversible (though it is easily stalled if I encounter even a small rock). PTO augers are generally not reversible.

My advice is if you MUST use your combination, is to gently and incrementally auger the hole bringing it up every time to spin away the dirt spoils. Go down or plunge too fast or too deep and you might just screw it right into the ground like a giant wood screw---then you'll need a backhoe or loader to pull it out (I know old timers who have done it with larger Fordson tractors). Getting it stuck in the hole can also happen even if you don't catch a rock or root if you load up the flighting with spoils from not spinning it---then the weight of the dirt and adhesion work against you.

If you're only drilling a few holes it might be easier and cheaper in the long run to hire it out. I charge anywhere from $10 - $25 per hole depending on size, quantity, and driving distance. (I can drill a 16" x 42" deep hole in about 1.5-2 minutes with a skid steer. With my 33hp New Holland CUT and 3pt auger it takes about 4-6 minutes for an 8" hole) I can drill up to 36" dia. and 13' deep with a 24" auger and shaft extensions. Another option is to rent a rubber-tracked Toro Dingo from Home Depot for about $150 for the day inc. trailer. It's hydraulic too which will allow you to reverse the auger.






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 07-22-2005, 22:03 Post: 113797
denwood



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 Post Hole digger info needed

I have had a PTO auger and cussed my way through over 100 holes over the years growing up on the farm. I would never own one again. I would sooner rent a real auger (Hydraulic) than have junk. If you are in a sandy area it may be fine, but with rocks and roots its a pain. I have replaced 2 or 3 shear bolts in 1 hole, I have used a crowbar to back out an auger stuck in the ground.






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 07-22-2005, 22:10 Post: 113798
denwood



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 Post Hole digger info needed

Currently I own a Mcmillan 1850 Hydraulic that was skid loader mounted. I thought it was great until I mounted it on the dipper of my mini excavator. Now it is really great. I have done hundreds and hundreds of holes 6 inch to 30 inch, and never sheared anything or been stuck where a quick reverse did not free it right up.






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 10-09-2005, 19:36 Post: 117636
chrisscholz



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 Post Hole digger info needed

Regarding hydraulic post-hole diggers, I am planning on buying a compact tractor with FEL, and have to dig a lot of holes. I like the idea of using the FEL for down-pressure. Can I buy one that is made for skid-loaders, and adapt it to any FEL? Would the john deere 2210 or 2305 have the ability to add another hydraulic outlet to run the digger? Would there even be enough hydraulic flow (5gpm) with these units? Or should I look into bigger tractors, like the 2520 or 3000 series????? I have no idea how much these diggers cost, and how much it would be to add the extra hydraulic outlet.






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 10-09-2005, 21:24 Post: 117642
denwood



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 Post Hole digger info needed

I will try to give you some pespective. My Mcmillan 1850 is rated for 15 to 30 GPM. My excavator is only capable of 12.6 GPM at full throttle. I never run it past half throttle and have no problem with 6 to 30 inch holes. I would not want it turning faster, just more wear. I estimate I am running about 9 GPM where 15 is supposed to be the min. The pressure does count. I am pushing around 3000 PSI. Mcmillan makes several models. One smaller one is the X1450 rated for 10 to 25 GPM and augers up to 30 inches. Another is the X950 rated for 6 to 15 GPM and up to 24 inch augers. Obviously the lower GPM models are geared for more speed with less flow and therefore lower torque. I would rather have the higher torque and less speed by over rating the auger for the machine. Several companies including Mcmillan make a cheesy chain driven hydraulic auger rather than a direct gear driven model. Mine is over 15 years old and I have done no maintenance at all. As far as putting it on a CUT, it should not be a problem. My 4300 can put out 8.3 I believe, so it may run the 1850 but would be better with the 1450. Adding hydraulics can be cheap or costly. The 3rd valve I added from ebay for about $140 or so, that was the cheap part. My front hydraulics were the big part. I added a bracket by the loader disconnects with identical couplings that run to the factory outlets in the back. That way when I disconnect the loader, I do not have to undo the hydraulic lines all the way from the attachment to the back of the tractor. I also added flush face couplers from a bobcat on a bracket by the bucket. All the hoses, couplings and fittings added up quick.






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