new holland 1725 valve adjustment: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild  -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum and Review new holland 1725 valve adjustment: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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 02-20-2000, 00:00 Post: 12983
Thomas M. Meza



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 new holland 1725 valve adjustment

Schedule maintenance will require me to adjust the valves in the coming weeks; I want to do it myself. Question: to rotate the engine without compression, Do I remove the glow plugs? Also since the head bolts will be exposed, do the head bolts need to be checked (re-torqued)?






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 02-21-2000, 00:00 Post: 13000
TomG

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 new holland 1725 valve adjustment

Guess that you got your procedure from an owner's manual, and the adjustment is for valve lash. Have to do it myself this spring.

My 1710 has a different engine. However, my owner's manual describes valve adjustment procedures like I remember for old cars. The rocker arm cover is removed. A feeler gauge of the specified thickness is placed between the valve and rocker arm while the engine is idling (and cold). Adjusments are made as required. The idea is to move the feeler gauge back and forth. The adjustment is correct when a gentle tug can be felt when the rocker arm contacts the gauge.

What you're doing sounds more complicated. There's perhaps something about the 1725 engine that prevents use of this time honoured method.

I don't know much about diesel engines, YET, so my comments may not be worthwhile. Removing the glow plugs sounds like a way to release compression. Guess you need to set some marks to TDC or something like that. I used to do that on cars by having somebody watch the marks while one or two others rocked the car against the compression. Don't know if that would work with high compression diesel engines, but it might be easier than taking things apart

Regarding head bolts: I wouldn't re-torque them unless called for in a specific maintenance procedure, or maybe if the engine had over-heated at some time. I think that the torque specs given for engine assembly allows for gasket seating and engine break in. At least on gas engines, head torque is fairly stable, and there's little reason to mess with it unless a problem exists. Well, my wife's car did blow a head gasket recently, but that's a stupid iron block/aluminum headed engine.






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 02-21-2000, 00:00 Post: 13040
Roger L.



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 new holland 1725 valve adjustment

Thomas, it sure makes it easier if you remove the glow plugs. But just jacking up the rear end, (fuel shut off at throttle and petcock, plus loosen the banjos at the injectors if you are nervous) will enable you to rotate a manual transmission by bumping the rear tire with your hand. Do it in 2wd in a high gear. I've never done a hydrostat, but I'd probably go with removing the glow plugs and turning it over with a wrench on the crank nose nut.
Setting the valves is done with the engine stopped and cold, just like many small engines. If you can't find the compression stroke TDC, then set each cylinder's exhaust as its intake is just closing, and the intake as the exhaust is just opening. This avoids all acceleration ramps and any overlap on the cam.






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 02-22-2000, 00:00 Post: 13095
Thomas M. Meza



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 new holland 1725 valve adjustment

Tom G. and Roger L. Thank you for the help!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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