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 04-20-1999, 00:00 Post: 3106




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What is a the most efficient way to install a new lawn where there is an existing lumpy, rutted, weed infested, non-graded lawn? I would love to use a harley power rake but $$$$$. How about a rototiller then box and rake?






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 04-20-1999, 00:00 Post: 3108
george



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 lawn installation

Just did something similar. Used my JD 4100 tractor with a Land Pride landscape rake.I used the loader to move a few bigger items and cut a few spots. But mostly put the rake on aggressive and made several passes.Once I got a basic grade, I backed off on the aggressive angle of the rake and made a few more passes.At this point, I had a nice clear / level area. A few trucks of loam which I spread and leveled using the same JD 4100 and rake and I was just about done.The soil tested a bit acidic so I spirnkled a bit of lime and fertilizer. Dropped some good quality seed and water, water, water.Presto ! New lawn.






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 04-20-1999, 00:00 Post: 3109




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By agressive your not referring to the winnow angle but the top link adjustment? Where the tines pointing more fore or aft? Did you have established sod to deal with?






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 04-20-1999, 00:00 Post: 3114
Greg



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 lawn installation

I have used a pulverizer on an existing 'lawn' if you can call it that; sounds like your situation. My area was never planted properly and turned into a cow pasture almost. The pulverizer will destroy existing weeds and any grass and serve to level the high spots. I used the box blade some also for leveling very high areas.






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 04-20-1999, 00:00 Post: 3133




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In my view, what you do now will determine whether you have a nice lawn and whether you will have to work excessively to keep it that way. Ask 1,000 guys and you'll get 1,000 answers. This is what I did for a for my lawn, a former meadow with lots of clay.I brought in a couple truck loads of good dirt and rough graded first. I then hired someone with a JD tractor with about a 5 foot tiller who tilled everythng that I wanted seeded (you don't want the good soil just sitting on the crappy stuff). If you have good soil, you can start with grading. I then hired some local kids to rake the rocks out (this can be omitted if you choose to roll the rocks into the dirt, but the result is not as good. I then seeded and covered it all with old hay and watered the hell out of it. The results were quick and most satisfying. Where I live its tough to maintain a well groomed "subdivision"-type lawn because the surrounding meadows blow seed all over the place. Nevertheless, I have the best lawn around! One word of caution: If you have a well and a lot to seed (over 2 acres) consider doing half this year and half next, else you might draw too much water from your well and pull up sediment. The lawn doesn't care, but the water is not very appealing to drink.) There is one advantage to doing this too -- while you are tending to the new seed/grass, you can occasionally spread some well composted organic material over the yet to do area. That will improve the soil (which man made fertilizers do not do) and prep the area for seeding in the fall or the following year. Oh, one more thing: be prepared to buy a nice mower or hire a local to cut. Good luck, and take your time. The return is directly related to the investment in time you make now!






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 04-21-1999, 00:00 Post: 3151




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Hoe exactly does a pulverizer work? Any url that shows an example?






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 04-21-1999, 00:00 Post: 3159
Jack in IL



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Soil pulverizers can be seen at the Woods site(www.woodsonline.com)under "landscape equipment". Pulverizers are usually made from a large H-cross section beam with scarifier rods attached to the front and rear plus one or 2 spiked rollers behind. They are great for leveling and preparing a seedbed for grass. They are not made to rip up hard packed soil, but rather to crush the large clods left from landshaping with a box scraper, loader, etc.






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