L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 02-07-2004, 08:36 Post: 76236
GSV40U



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

I'm planning on adding a hydraulic top link to my newly purcased L3430. Any suggestions as to length, brand, model, etc.? The tractor has remote hydraulics. Thanks

Greg






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 02-07-2004, 15:00 Post: 76268
Art White



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

Why not the Kubota unit?






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 02-07-2004, 17:10 Post: 76286
GSV40U



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

Art:

Golly...sometimes a thing is so obvious it gets overlooked-I'll talk to my dealer. I've read about various custom TnT installations with cylinders, valves, etc. from other sources. I think all I need is the cylinder and hoses since I already have the remotes? Does the Kubota cylinder come with check valves? Do I need this? Any idea of a list (ballpark) price? Thanks for the reminder.

Greg






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 02-08-2004, 21:13 Post: 76389
Ironpeddler



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

Take a look at the CCM Hydraulic Toplink Cylinders. They have the check valves so the setting will stay where you put it. If you purchase a Hydraulic Cylinder without the check valve you will be constantly adjusting the cylinder because of the valve drift and bleed by.
The proper one for your tractor is 18-26", # 6003, $170, hose kit with male couplers $30.






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Kubota Review: L3430-Hydraulic-Top-Link-Recommendation

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 02-09-2004, 07:36 Post: 76414
TomG

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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

I believe my TLC doesn't have check valves (pilot operated ones I think) and I can attest to what Ironpeddler is saying. On the other hand, most of my grading requires frequent adjustments anyway do to the nature of the ground and my obsession with shooting beautiful grades. Since I can't say how many adjustments are due to the ground itself and how many to cylinder drift I can't say how much good a cylinder with pilot valves would do me.

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably get a cylinder with the valves. I didn't know about them when I got my cylinder as part of a 3ph forklift. Who know, maybe I'll get one anyway and then my grades will be even more beautiful with less work.






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 02-10-2004, 05:29 Post: 76503
dedeye



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

If you will pardon my ignorance, My B2400 has a pair of hydro hoses hanging off the right rear of it. I believe they were used to power a wood splitter. They are currently connected together with quick couplers. Can I assume these hoses can be used with a open 2 way control valve and ram to operate hydro top link? If I am so lucky
(rare) Any recomendations as to what Northern tool ram and valve to use?
Thanks
dedeye






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 02-10-2004, 07:38 Post: 76514
beagle

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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

Deadeye, follow the hoses back and describe where they are tied to the tractor hydraulics. This would be the first step for help on how to proceed. You will want a 4-way, 3 postion valve for a log splitter, with detent in one direction. I bought my splitter parts from Northern, but want to make sure where those hoses come from before you proceed.






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 02-10-2004, 08:12 Post: 76525
TomG

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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

In tracing the hoses it probably will be useful to identify which end of the loader valve is the inlet and which is the outlet section. If one end has two hoses that is definitely the outlet section. If one rear hose goes to the outlet section and the other goes to a block then you almost certainly have a power-beyond connection. I'd be surprised if the hook up is anything else since the quick-connects are connected together--that hose shouldn't be removed unless unless a valve is attached. PB connections can be made ahead of a loader valve but they aren't too common.

My rear hoses go to a third control valve on my loader valve and they don't require a hose to connect them together. I could operate a splitter directly from my rear outlets since it's valve controlled. Many splitters have their own valves and a PB connection is better.

There are a few other connections for the rear hoses that are possible. We'll get back to them if the hose tracing doesn't seem like anything described. A valve like Beagle mentioned is likely what's needed but it should be PB rated for the hookup I first described. An alternative with some risk is just to make sure the 3ph never goes into lift mode while the splitter valve is operated.






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 02-10-2004, 09:07 Post: 76528
dedeye



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 L3430 Hydraulic Top Link Recommendation

On top of the rearend housing there are two pipes 1/4 in. I'd guess that are attatched to a block that both hoses come from.

My wish is that I could mount a control valve somewhere within reach and use a hydro ram for a top link to adjust box blade while grading. I also have built a 3 pt hitch box out of a lawn mower wagon that would dump nicely if this ram idea pans out.
Thanks
Dan






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 02-10-2004, 19:20 Post: 76565
beagle

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OK, you need to make sure which is inlet and which is outlet before going further. Your manual should show the rear hydraulic block, and identify which is which. I'm not that familiar with the 2400, so if someone knows different, be sure to comment. You sure don't want to hook the block outlet to the valve inlet. Big touble.

A 3.5" ram operating at 2000psi will give you 19240lbs.,
and require .8 gallons of fluid at 18" stroke, plus lines

A 4" ram operating at 2000psi will give you 25130lbs., and require 1.05 gallons of fluid at 18" stroke. Get familiar with the reservoir capacity in the tractor and make sure you have the fluid available.






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