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 11-30-2001, 18:55 Post: 33564
frank



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 overhaul

I,AM ABOUT TO OVERHAUL MY KIOTI LB2202 TRACTOR I WAS WOUNDERING WHAT ELSE SHOULD I CHANG WHY IN THERE BESIDE VALVE STEM SEALS RINGS ROD BEARINGS HEAD GASKET , BY THE WAY I,AM LOSING POWER AND VERY HARD STARTING EVEN AFTER ON GLOW PLUGS FOR WHILE THANKS FOR THE HELP






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 12-01-2001, 07:39 Post: 33576
Roy Jackson



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When overhauling, you really want to pull it down to a bare block. Since you're putting the time, energy and money into it, don't do it halfway.

Check all bearings, mic the bores and pistions, valve stem seal, cam bearings, rod bearings etc.
Replaxce as required...and consider the expected longevity of the rebuilt engine...you don't want to redo it in two years, do you?

It's not that much more expensive to do it right.

NOW, if you are convinced your bottom end is OK, and your issues are strictly with the top end, consider a top end overhaul. This would be everything within the head(s).






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 12-01-2001, 08:04 Post: 33578
TomG

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Well, a bunch of things come to mind such as : valves, seats and guides; pistons; cylinder sleeves or re-bore, crank turning; camshaft and bearings; timing gears and on so on. It's not an easy question to answer, and the best answer should come from somebody who knows the engine.

The main questions are how many hours are on the engine and what are your goals. if the engine has a bunch of hours then the tolerances of many parts might be marginal. A bunch of things could be replaced and the engine would last a long time but the repair would be expensive. A big rebuid might make sense if you're planning to keep the tractor indefinitely. If the tractor might be sold in a few years, the job you describe sounds like a fairly inexpensive way to keep it working reasonably well for some time. I'd probably add valves and seats to the list as that's a common source of compression loss that ocurrs fairly early in an engine's life.

It's really a question of what you want from the tractor. Patch up rebuilds are cheap but they don't last long. I would keep in mind that the market valve of a used tractor where the owner claims a recent COMPLETE rebuild isn't going to be much higher than any other tractor. There would be a good chance of spending a bunch and then of not getting the money back in terms of use or sales price.

If I was doing it, I'd probably get a repair manual, refer to the specs and go through the measurements, but that's just the way I am. If measurements are taken, there's a good chance that the crank bearings (especially the mains) are within tolerance and don't need to be replaced. On the other hand, if the engine has high hours, then the crank journals may be out of round, and replacement bearings won't do much good unless the crank is turned. However, It's probably easier to find somebody who knows the engine and ask what usually starts failing around the time that's on the hour-meter than to start measuring things.






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 12-01-2001, 20:42 Post: 33584
Art White



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 overhaul

How many hours do you have on your tractor? Are you sure you need to rebuild? How low on compression are you? What is your oil consumption? For what you have said you still may just have a fuel problem.






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 12-02-2001, 05:39 Post: 33590
TomG

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It's always good to question assumptions. My assumption, which I didn’t think much about, was that the need for rebuild work was already established. What Art said definitely should be considered.

I had a couple of after-thoughts about rebuilds. First is that new head bolts probably are a good idea. I haven't used new ones in any of my rebuilds, which have all been gas engines, and never blew a head gasket later. However, many people say that new bolts always should be used.

The second thought is about valve guides. They are a problem on gas engines because they wear into ovals, because rocker arms don't work directly down on the valve stems. A good job or regrinding the seats can't be done unless the guides are well within tolerance.

Guides are sometimes reamed to a standard oversize, but then new valves with oversized stems must be bought (or the cheap way is knurl the valve stems and turn them to the proper diameter on a lathe). Best thing is if the guides are replaceable--they are on some engines and not on others. I think some seats are replaceable as well. Old guides are pressed out and new ones pressed in, and the work is usually done by a machine shop. The head should be checked for warp and milled if necessary while it's at the machine shop. With new guides, the old valves usually can be reground and used. It's sort of a tough call. New guides cost, but then so do new valves.

If work is done by an independent machine shop, it's a very good idea to know the standard blanks and reamers for the particular engine. Not all shops have complete sets, and a tractor engine may have sizes that are unusual in automotive use. There are universal blanks that 'expand' against the guide walls. The universal blanks usually do a bad job and shouldn't be used.

Anyway, there is quite a bit of machining work to do for a proper head job, and it's expensive. However, it is usually money well spent. I'd probably take the head to a shop (or dealer if I didn't know a good shop) and just tell them to do the whole head. Usually that means new springs as well. The main idea I'm expressing here, along with a lot of detail, is that good rebuilds cost a lot but often end up being less expensive, because patch up work doesn't last long.






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 12-02-2001, 08:03 Post: 33594
fieldmower



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 overhaul

You Know the world wants to know PARTS AVAILABILITY on the KIOTI!!!

the RUMOR is that parts have to come from china, please let us know..

and how many hours on your tractor ???, I would hate to rebuild a tractor engine under 4000 hours.....

unless i did something stupid....not change oil, air filter....etc......

please let the world know.....






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 12-03-2001, 19:49 Post: 33637
frank



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i'am checking fuel before we go any futer get back to you soon by the way it has 1100 hours on it .any other sudgestions would help thanks.






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 12-05-2001, 08:27 Post: 33668
TomG

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An 1100 hour engine doesn't sound like a usual rebuild case--most are more like 4000 hours but less for the injectors and pump. However, there are various adjustments and servicing that are done periodically. I think I'd make sure the servicing, including adjustments such as valve clearance, are up to snuff before thinking about a rebuild. Servicing can clear up many problems. There also should be some specific reasons to tear down an engine. Low compression readings is a good reason. Some people add on leak down time to give better information from compression testing. Even the presence of blow-by from the crank case vent isn't necessarily a reason. There have been some 'stuck ring' discussions here that I believe were cleared up by oil additives.

Why I'm carrying on like this is because a long time ago I indulged myself by tearing down my fairly low mileage Honda 750. I just wanted to do it and figured I'd replace this and that for no particular good reason. There were a number of very small o-rings that sealed oil passages between the cases and head. They were extremely difficult to keep in place while putting the head back on the cases. I think I took the engine out of the frame and tore it down at least four times before getting it right. When I was even younger I'd work for a week or more straightening out stripped threads, broken studs etc. on things I didn't really have to take apart. After a few decades of this stuff, I have a variation to a cliche that I follow: 'Unless you're sure it's broken, don't fix it.'

On the other hand, I guess a good reason for working through an exercise is find out how difficult locating parts may be and maybe to find some parts sources before a serious need is encountered. In this context, you might also look for some of the old rebuilding tricks that were used to avoid the need for new parts-- that was back when parts were very expensive compared to labour.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kioti Tractor Forum

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