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 05-04-2003, 21:05 Post: 54309
PeterH



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 Busted 48 Backhoe

Hello everyone...

Had a bad time Saturday afternoon... ruined a good part of the weekend. I had my JD4300 with the 48 backhoe backed up to a job and was working away when I suddenly saw a cloud of mist spraying on the ground. Don't know how but I kinked one of the hydraulic lines to the backhoe and it sprung a pin-hole leak. It was the supply line attached to the backhoe with the male connector.

Of course I didn't have any fluid on hand so it was all I could do to get the hoe pulled in and get out of the job area before I lost everything.

Has anyone replaced that hose in the field? The tractor is 100 miles from the nearest dealer and if I can, I'd rather replace it myself than haul it in to town. Looks like I can reach the connection point where the hose screws into the manifold by removing the pin and letting the left out-rigger hang down. Think that will work?

I also noted that the hose has a connector on each end that is screwed into the hose. So does that mean I can get away with replacing just the hose and reusing the connectors?

Of course I also have to locate a source for the right fluid to replace what I lost on Saturday. My manual, which of course, was 5.5 hours away from the job only describes the right stuff as the Low Viscosity Hy-Gard. No one at any of the usual sources knew what I was taking about when I called. Of course the dealers were closed at the time. Anyone know if there is a suitable substitute that I can use that won't harm my baby? I'll purchase the right fluid this week and take it to the tractor this weekend. But it would be nice to know if I could some something else in a pinch.

Now I'm off to the Deere web site... I've been told I can find information there about how to properly bleed air from the system after an operation like this.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

Pete
Dallas, Texas






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 05-05-2003, 05:24 Post: 54315
TomG

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 Busted 48 Backhoe

This is probably a day late. It sounds like you have replaceable couplers. Replaceable couplers have hex sockets that go over the hose end while permanent couplers have a round ferrule that is crimped on the hose end. Replaceable couplers can be replaced with a vice, wrench and oil can. However, there are different couplers for high and medium pressure hose and they don't mix.

High-pressure couplers have a notch around the socket. The existing hose should be coded. Medium pressure hose has a single wire braid and should be coded SAE J517 100R1. It should only be use with medium pressure couplers. High-pressure hose uses multiple wire braid. The series starts with double braid with a code of 100R2 and continues to reinforced braid at 100R9 and maybe higher. Installation of high-pressure couplers requires the hose covering to be trimmed back to the length of the socket while medium pressure couplers do not require trimming.

Basically you have to identify the hose type and diameter to ensure that the replacement hose is appropriate and that the fittings will work. Most any dealer or hydraulics shop should have hose in stock. If they cut new hose it may be best if they install the couplers as well.

In terms of the oil, hydraulic/TX oil is fairly universal stuff. Products sold in box stores likely are appropriate but a call to your dealer might figure out acceptable substitutes. You want dealer agreement if the tractor is under warranty.

A work about safety: Pinhole leaks can cause serious injury. The oil streams can't always be seen. The pressure is sufficient to penetrate skin or eyes. Oil injected under the skin requires medical attention within hours or very serious conditions result. Looking for leaks is done with a piece of pasteboard and not with the fingers.






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 05-06-2003, 21:30 Post: 54440
PeterH



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 Busted 48 Backhoe

Thanks for the information. I'll take your advice on having a dealer replace the hose and the ends. I'd rather pay more and have it done right than pay for it twice having messed it up once.

But I'm wondering if I could manage to attach the new hose to the manifold myself? Are there any special tools needed? Looks like I can get a good grip on the hex nut with a wrench...

And if I remove the hose in the field, how should I protect the connection from dirt? Finally, how do I bleed the air out of the system after attaching the new hose? Could have sworn I saw a procedure described in the Deere.com site the other day but I can't find it again.

Of course, if you think I shouldn't try that, please let me know.

Thanks again for the reminder about the danger of such a break. I consider myself lucky that the hole in the hose was pointed down rather than in my direction. I've read about the danger of high pressure fluids under the skin.

Peter
Dallas, Texas






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 05-07-2003, 07:25 Post: 54446
TomG

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 Busted 48 Backhoe

I guess your hose has threaded fittings at each end rather than a quick connector on one end. I haven't replaced this type of hose but I wouldn't hesitate doing it. There is a picture on the link below of my manifold block and loader valve assembly outlet section below that has this type of hose. Note that my couplers are permanent types.

If I were doing it, for removing the hose, I'd sit the hoe on a secure platform and chock the tractor wheels and then shut down the tractor and operate all valves to relieve any pressure in the cylinder lines.

I'd remove any clamps and blow air around the fittings or generally clean the areas. Routings are sometimes important and wire can be strung along the same route to ensure the new hose takes the same route. I wouldn't assume the old hose is the correct length unless it's a factory part. Hoses should be installed away from sources of heat or mechanical damage. They should not be taunt or looped, have sharp bends or twists. Excessive loops and bends can be corrected by a shorter hose or angle fittings.

I'd remove the hose starting at my loader valve end and place wrenches on each of the two hex fittings so the hose won't twist when loosening. I'd then place a drain pan under the manifold and remove the hose using a single wrench. If the old fittings are reused, I'd thoroughly clean the threads--particularly if liquid or tape sealants were used.

Installing is simply reversing the procedure. For new fittings, I'd clean and put a bit of oil on the threads and tighten to torque values. I'd probably use liquid sealant for old fittings. For either tape or liquid, only the upper 1/3rd of threads are covered to avoid exposing sealant to the oil flow. An installed hose should not be twisted. There are formal torque values for most fitting types but few persons would actually use a torque wrench but it is important to avoid over-tightening.

The most important thing about cleaning is to remove loose material in the area before taking things apart. After disassembly, I've used plastic, baggies or clean rags over exposed ports and fittings. After reassembly air in the hoses should just be pushed through to the sump where it will bubble out of the oil before returning to the pump. Almost all compact tractor hydraulic pumps are self-priming. After the new hose is installed, it's just a matter of starting the tractor and checking for leaks. The hoe or 3ph needs to be under a heavy load to check for high-pressure leaks, and as noted paper should be used rather than fingers.






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 05-07-2003, 19:00 Post: 54480
harvey



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 Busted 48 Backhoe

PeterH You can do it no problem.

1 remove the deck plate your feet rest on. I've found you can get a finget under the carriage bolt to remove and stick a piece of duct tape on it to hold it in place when you reinstall.

2 remove the 2- 1/2X8" bolts that hold the back plate on it has the little rubber bumpers on it.

3 You manifold fittings are exposed. seems like a 15/16 and a 1&1/8 open end are what you need.

Good luck

Ps have dipper out and boom down to give you more room to work.

Good luck Harvey






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