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 09-25-2000, 17:38 Post: 20067
Ed



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 Cub filter help

Ok, cub cadet experts - you know who you are - I have seen your posts Smile I have a 98 7275. Do you know of a baldwin crossover number for the filters? I do not like paying the cub dealer $10 for an oil filter and $25 for the hyd filter by the seat - and what is the OTHER longer filter under the left side (as sitting on it) rear fender??????if I change the fluid - the 2 drains are on both sides of the axle housing right? and the only fill is on the 'hump' under hte seat by the dipstick? I did not get a manual with mine - and caught the dealer in a lie when they said they sent it to me, as a result, we dont speak much. I have changed the oil in the motor - Im mech inclinded and not afraid to get dirty, and want to do the xmission. I have 253 hrs total on it. (I put on 100 since I got it)Otherwise - aint this a great board? been backhoeing, grading, mowin etc with it - boy you learn a lot when you do it commercially.Im turning a 5ft bushhog SQ60R4 btw - I know of people who turn them with 19PTO hp 8Ns so my 21PTO hp should be enuf (tractortips.com says I have 27engine net hp, 21 pto - does this sound right?) but when I mow, I have taken down stuff up to 2" thick - makes a hell of a noise but the hog does it....any extra maint I should be doing? most of my mows are tall thick weeded neglected fields - I already know to clean the screens a lot...BTW - I added 4 lights to the top of the ROPS, fed off a direct line from the battery to a 15amp breaker and thru a relay activated by the tractor parking lights (so you cannot leave them on) and switchable forward or rear - anyone interested in pictures or the wiring diagram?In the meantime - please help me out with filter crossovers.....central tractor sells filters from baldwin for 1/3 what the dealer does.Lastly - anyone ever add a larger fluid cooler? And the dealer gave me a 5 gallon bucket of 'hydraulic tractor transmission oil' from lubriguard or something - this is correct stuff to use right?thanks guys






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 09-25-2000, 17:51 Post: 20068
charlie



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 Cub filter help

go to baldwinfilters.com and use there on-line catalog.good luck






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 09-26-2000, 18:27 Post: 20090
Ted Kennedy



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Hi Ed, About the filters for your 7275, you are correct in that they are expensive and cross referencing to a domestic brand isn't easy. Maybe Baldwin is a good bet. I have some information that you can use regarding your machine, and I never am quite sure if it will be taken in the spirit in which it was given (I only want to help): Don't Mess With Success. The dealer filters from Mitsubishi do the job very well and judging from the amount of time that can go between changes, you don't gain anything from taking a chance on another brand. Your machine wasn't cheap, don't risk damaging it. The long filter under the operator's platform is the hydraulic filter, the plugs you mentioned are total system drains, the long filter coming through the right side is the hydrostatic drive filter. Virtually the entire center and rear assemblies of the tractor serve as reservoirs. DON'T DRAIN YOUR FLUID UNLESS YOU HAVE EVIDENCE THAT IT IS CONTAMINATED BEFORE 200 HOURS! Both filters need to be changed at 50 hours to start, then, after two hundred hours change both filters, drain it all out, and replace it fresh. You don't need to be hassled with 23.2 quarts of fluid to dispose of before 200 hours especially when it is still perfectly good. Don't use any other fluid with the Cub Cadet fluid, not even to top off, or you may have contamination problems from dissimilar chemicals. You won't gain a thing by looking for a bigger cooler, the one that came with the machine should be good in full throttle operation even in the hottest weather, under heavy loads. If you add attachments that use hydraulic fluid from the open center, remember to top off. Cub dealers say it is OK to add up to one extra gallon when both the loader and backhoe are mounted. Of special concern on the small Mitsubishi diesels is the cooling system. Believe me, you better change your antifreeze every year with a non-alcohol base, ethylene glycol product, and add no rust inhibitors. The system takes 6.3 quarts, mixed for your zone temp with demineralized water. You need at least a 50% mix to ensure proper heat transfer. Don't change the coolant and you can kiss your engine goodbye from cylinder block erosion and pin holes. As far as the dishonety of your dealer, I'm sure there is more to it, but one thing is for sure, MTD/Cub Cadet will not tolerate this. Go to the MTD web and report him! If he is doing you wrong, chances are he is doing it to everyone. The manual can be had from Cub Cadet, it is FORM NO. 772-9044, entitled: "Series 7000 Compact Tractor, Models 7232, 7272, 7233, 7273, 7234, 7274, 7235, 7275; the address is Cub Cadet Corporation, P.O. Box 368023, Cleveland, Ohio 44136. And when they tell you it has to be printed, please be patient, they aren't fibbing, the manuals are printed in the USA to order. You'd be surprised how many used machines are sold without the manual. Finally, you are right, this is the best tractor related site I've ever seen and again, I thank all those who make it possible. Good Luck.






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 09-26-2000, 20:38 Post: 20092
Ed



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Excellent comeback and thanks! Ok here is my dilemma: i am at 253 hrs. I got the tractor with 150hrs on it. I know they changed the engine oil - but I have no proof they did the hydraulic side as part of the sale. I got the seat side filter so far, but not the underside filter. Ive done the engine - but have not done the coolant - good point you make on the coolant so I will do it this weekend, however, ethylene glycol IS alcohol.....so exactly what coolant should I use? Distilled water ok?

Now about the hyd fluid - I notice some tubs say 'hydraulic fluid' (like what you get from central tractor) and they say 'notfor use in transmissions' and the stuff my dealer gave me (not cub fluid - its lubriguard - all they stock for both cub and kubotas) is called hydraulic tractor/transmission fluid - one size fits all? the 2 systems (hydrostat and hydraulics) use the same reservior? If so why 2 filters? so if I drain those 2 rear plugs - I get it all? (save what might be in a line or pump) I plan on doing this this weekend - now im a bit dismayed at having to deal with 6 gallons of hydraulics!!! My shop disposes of used oil, but 10 gal ata time, this is 60% of my capacity!

thanks again....






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 09-27-2000, 09:11 Post: 20103
mbjacobs



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 Cub filter help

Ed, In the anti-freeze/coolant world ethylene glycol is NOT alcohol even though they are similar chemically. When we talk about alcohol anti-freeze we mean methanol. Ethylene glycol (and now propylene glycol) are called "permanent anti-freeze" The propylene glycol is more environmentally friendly (less toxic) than ethylene glycol but slightly more expensive and not quite as effective at depressing the freezing point of water. I don't believe any modern vehicles use methanol anti-freeze and I'd be surprised if it is being sold as anti-freeze/coolant.






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 09-27-2000, 18:20 Post: 20116
Ted Kennedy



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Ed, M.B. Jacobs is right about the coolant. MTD wants you to use the stuff that is "NOT" environmentally friendly: ethylene glycol. I use "Prestone" for severe duty coolant applications from a truck supply house. Don't forget to use a high quality system flush, it helps the radiator especially. Yes, when you remove the two drain plugs you'll be draining the entire system except for a small amount in the pump, cylinders, and hoses. I don't know what to tell you about your new fluid, if the dealer says it's OK then it probably is. Ask him if he will stand by it if you have a problem from using it. You must change the filters when you drain out the system, remove the old filters first, then the plugs. The filler is the dip stick opening on the center housing, I use a real long funnel. You are correct, that's an awful lot of fluid to get rid of, and that's why many owners just change filters every 200 hours, then top off. Some last bits of advice, I'm told the drain plugs are in a machined aluminum casting, not iron. Treat them with respect lest you have one of those awkward mechanical moments we all regret. And while you are under there, check your three point hitch mounting bolts for tightness. Good Luck.






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 09-27-2000, 20:58 Post: 20121
Ed



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Thanks again guys, I will have her all drained out by noon on saturday.






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 09-27-2000, 22:46 Post: 20127
larry



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While your changing your fluids dont forget the Front drive axle,there are 3 drain plugs & 1 fill hole,there are oil level plugs that you fill to. It calls for 85W-140 gear oil-4.2 qts
You should drain these oils when they are WARM for both axles
Also I talked to MTD & they told me as long as it was mixed at 50-50 the new
LONG LIFE antifreeze was acceptable.So far it has worked well.
My Cub is a 7275
Thankyou






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 10-02-2000, 07:45 Post: 20240
Trent Cloaninger



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Cub now recommends hydraulic/transmission fluid for the front axle because it flows thru the bearings faster. If you use 85/140 you need to leave the check plugs out a day for it to flow all the way thru.






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 10-02-2000, 13:05 Post: 20250
Art White



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 Cub filter help

Lubriguard is a economy oil built by Quaker State oil for tractor hydralic systems. I would recommend you go to a Case-Ih dealer and pick up some HytranII oil. That oil is a far better oil just as far as a oil goes and will absorb more moisture than any oil I know of. Case-IH dealers sold those tractors before Cub did and the oil's recommended were built around these oils. Hytran when full of moisture will turn a pinkish color when in need of a change. The oil is rated at a ten weight so it is one of the best for cold operation.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Cub Cadet Forum

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