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I believe that Deere has an armor kit for this tractor, which includes a belly pan for protection. Might be worth looking into it. When I moved from a Deere 420 Utility tractor (two-cylinder) to the CUT Deere 4300, I was (and am still) concerned with brush taking out some of the exposed underside things. The old 420 was void of any wires, or hydraulic hoses under the belly.

I have noticed the new series (4x10's) have a better arrangement, but expect the underside armor is still the best way to go. I found long ago that going into brush (forward) and not backing up was the best manuever. But sometimes backing up is necessary, and &%$@ happens then.

Busted the same fitting twice anybody else have this problem
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by kay

I would recommend a semi-transparent stain of the color you want, and stain the wood right away. It will still lose moisture through the stain, so there is no benefit to waiting. Also, the stain should have anti-mold chemicals in it, that will keep the wood from turning black with mold (mildew).

I am not sure what the lower board streaks are that you mention, but can only think you are talking about dirt splashing up when it rains. This is taken care of with gutters, or ground treatments that include grass, or something other than bare dirt.

If the boards are nailed properly, then they should stay tight aroung the doors and windows after they shrink. If not, they will shrink away and form a crack that may have to be caulked. However, there should be a water barrier (like Tyvek) under the boards, so water cannot get into the wall of the house. Boards of Board/Batten siding should normally be nailed in the center of the board, so the shrinkage occurs under the battens. Sometimes, the boards are nailed so the battens hide the nails, which looks great until the wood shrinks, causing splits in the centers of the boards. Hopefully yours is nailed correctly.

Hemlock wood
Home Improvement
Replies 3 Post by kay

Its good to be happy with whatever we do with our compacts. I have $50 worth of windshield washer fluid in my rear tires (Deere 4300 R-4's). That's 25 gal of fluid and 5 gal of water in each rear tire for an estimated weight in each of about 240#. The tires are tubeless. I don't expect any rusting as the tires are filled above the rim at the top. If they puncture, I don't care where the fluid goes, nor do I worry about the little cost to replace it. I am happy that I don't have to hang heavy weights on the rims. Seems like there are plusses and minuses for all combinations. Its good to see discussion of the many combinations that are possible. The bottom line is that we need weight on the back if we have a FEL on the front.

Changing tire ballast from calcium to Rim Guard
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by kay

How about just replacing the defective switch with a new one, and either put one in that is waterproof, (maybe even relocate the switch), and/or pack it with di-electric grease? I will be looking at my JD4300 and see if I can improve it before anything unforseen happens. I use the cruise control a lot.
Thanks for the heads up, though.

4400 HST Safety Problem
John Deere Tractors
Replies 22 Post by kay

If you don't mind the post 'bottom' remaining in the ground, rock them back and forth until they break off (usually right at ground level), then use a maul to pound them down a bit below ground level. Less equipment to lug along (than a torch), and much less expensive than trying to get a tractor to each one (although if that is easy to do, then it is more fun).

Old T post removal
Home Improvement
Replies 10 Post by kay

Yes, pull the J pin out and replace it with a bolt! The pin wears and it won't stay in. I think they should be longer, but they are not. Mine are both bolts, as the problems when they slip out are too much of a nuisance. It doesn't take that long to remove a bolt when changing off the deck.

mower jpin problem
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by kay

I am not familiar with the Cub Cadet, but am with John Deere. JD has an over-ride on the mower engage switch that will bypass the reverse cut-off switch.
I understand that it was Cub that was sued when someone backed over a child with the deck running, and now all tractor/mowers have the reverse cut-off switch built in. Children shouldn't be anywhere around when using a mower anyway, let alone behind the mower.
Look for the over-ride method on your Cub. What you describe is a nightmare.

New Cadet safety feature is a pain
Cub Cadet
Replies 31 Post by kay

Sometimes the gears on my 4300 HST don't seem to mesh when moving the lever into the high range, but touching lightly on the forward or reverse pedals while holding firmly on the shift lever will let it slip right into gear. If this doesn't work for me, then I would see my dealer for some adjustment or problem solving.

C range on 4400 rear end
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by kay

Yes, I have driven the new 4310. What do you want to know?
I am thinking about getting one, as soon as I can line up all the ducks in a row. They are an upgrade from the 4300 that I have now. The electronic transmission package that keeps one from stalling the engine will be a nice feature to have. Now, with my 4300 I can be digging hard with the FEL and kill the engine because letting off on the forward HST pedal doesn't let off quick enough. Usually one can feather it enough so it is not a major problem, but the new 4310 fixes that.
Also, the aggressivness of the forward and reverse pedals can be changed to fit your taste.

JD New 4310 ten series tractors Help
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by kay

Mark
The first diesel tractor by Deere was the Model R, in 1949.
My father started working on the early stages of engineering design for Deere in 1936 and spent his career building and testing diesel tractors, which included the Model R, the 70, 80, up until the late 50's when Deere switched to 3, 4, and 6 cylinder diesels.
Your web link will take you to the Model R for some additional information.

JD History Question
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 28 Post by kay

Mark. I gather from your original post that you thought you discovered some incriminating evidence that all was not well with the 4000's, exclusive of the 4100's. I have a 4300, and while I only have put on 200 hours in three years, I have not found anything that comes close to matching up with the service bulletins you speak of.
You ask for our thoughts. These are mine.
I am not surprised that owners have found things wrong with their tractors, as I expect all makes and models have things that can, and do, go wrong. I am happy to hear that these things are not swept under the rug, but that they likely have resulted in bulletins sent out to all dealers to give them a 'heads up' when someone has a problem that matches the service bulletins. Seems this is good for us owners, not bad.
I do know that the first year the 4000's were produced, JD set up a facility to handle the expected production of about 13,000 units per year. The first year, however, they produced over 43,000 units. That could mean growing pains (triple shifts) for anyone. I could ramble on more, but the point I would like to make, is that I am not disappointed that there are service bulletins. I am glad there are, and if I have trouble someday, there will be a service bulletin to help solve the problem. Knowing JD, even if the warrany is past, I would expect if the problem is outlined in a service bulletin, the fix has a better than average chance of falling under an extended warranty. Also, I don't get nervous when I hear that the 4100's have fewer bulletins than the 4200's and up. The 4100's have been on the assembly line longer than the others. Also, I understand that most problems have been fixed, due to changes in manufacturing. Sounds like a winner to me. I would expect the 4x10's to be solid products, and continue the John Deere solid tradition. Thanks for your post. I think it is a positive for John Deere.

What every John Deere owner should know
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by kay

Maybe Gary used his FEL in a similar fashion that I did, when I placed an attic stair (pull down type) in my shop. I cut the hole, didn't have help to raise it into place, so I put it on the bucket, and slowly lifted it up into the hole. Once in, I fastened it in place. Worked great, and did it alone. I can see doing drywall the same way, although I used a dry-wall lift which worked very well too. Now with forks for my JD4300 430 loader, the tasks I can do (and do) are almost unlimited. I also have used it three years in a row to bring the deer in out of the woods, and to hang it up for skinning and butchering. I also use the bucket for clearing trails in the woods. Reach up, hook a limb, and break it off the tree. Beats sawing it off (which I do if the tree is one I consider to be valuable in the future).

Tougue and Groove House Building
Home Improvement
Replies 8 Post by kay

Sorry Jyoutz, but I didn't insist that this couldn't be done (re-read my posts carefully). In my first post, I was surprised the poster said he had read and had heard from his dealer that it couldn't be done. Then in my last post I referred to what my dealer read to me out of the book, that R-4's came on single position rims. I was just trying to relay that information. I believe you when you said you did it, as that was my original thought. And in my last post, I commented that apparently there are R-4 rims that can be in two positions, and some that cannot. Rims are obviously not created equal. I believe you turned yours around. I did too on my 4300, and on some 4100's. Keep cool.

3 pt hitch design on 4100
John Deere Tractors
Replies 22 Post by kay

For sure you can run a 5' rotary cutter, and the JD 513 would work (get the stump jumper pan) or you might also look at the new JD Frontier line. The literature I picked up today (and saw the unit at the JD dealer) looks pretty impressive. Might even make the JD513 sweat a little to keep up with its cheaper cousin. I think Woods makes the Frontier line for JD (may even be part of JD as far as I know).
As far as warranty, I don't think JD would throw any curves at you for "abuse". Often abuse is what breaks things, but JD fixes them under warranty anyway. A year ago, I helped pick up a busted 4100, that was sitting beside a 3' (36") diam stump that the owner of the 4100 was trying to remove with his FEL and many, many concrete slabs on the 3pt for ballast. It was apparent from the marks in the lawn that he was ramming this stump pretty hard. JD fixed the internal gears of the rearend without questioning the abuse reported to the service manager.
Like Bird says, if you come short on power, back off and go a little slower. Most of the time you will have plenty of power to run a 5' rotary. Now, you might have to have a little weight on the front end in the form of a FEL or some hanging weights. This will keep you from doing wheelies and help steering (good to know how to use the individual rear wheel brakes too). You will not lack for traction with the rotary cutter hanging off the back end.

Which brush hog for a John Deere 4200
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 5 Post by kay

I have had the same experience with mice nesting in amongst the wires (and eating the wires) of different sized tractors and autos, when parked outside or in a open shed. Never had any problems with squirrels though.
The nests the mice make are very smelly, and I believe that they come back to that smell (just cleaning out the nest doesn't discourage them from returning). I discovered that spraying the area with bleach (I did this because when re-wiring the tractor, I couldn't stand the mouse urine smell) did have an effect on the re-building of the nest. You can tell if you have rats versus mice by the size of the turds left behind. Mice are about the size of grains of rice, rats the size of navy beans. Sorry if that comparison causes a loss of appetite for anyone.

How to stop Mice Rodents eating Tractor Wiring
Parts and Repair
Replies 25 Post by kay

Murf. I don't mind the heat. The log, once it is lifted by the 3 pt arrangement I described (per the request of Hillbilly), can be secured to the drawbar with a chain just like the arrangement you described to Hillbilly. With my arrangement, it probably takes more skill than the neophytes have that jump on tractors nowadays. Its not as dangerous as flying a plane, but then one has to have a pilots license to fly one (didn't help Kennedy). Very definetly works great for pulling logs out of the woods. Your arrangement with the long pole has to be more difficult to manuever around in the woods. I like the arrangement described that has the wheeled yoke that lifts the entire log. It is tough to get around other trees and things in the woods though. On the good trails and roads, it would work great. My neighbor logged pine 1.5 miles out using his 10 HP garden tractor and an arrangement like this. It is like a technique used a hundred years ago to get large logs out with horses and oxen. They used huge wood wheels in those days. Keep cool and safe.

Log skidding attatchment
Operating and Attachments
Replies 20 Post by kay

Maybe plan to get the disposable kind, as those chains just may still slide on ice. When the wheels are spinning (to get traction), the chains will take the polish off the ice and give you better traction than no chains at all. When braking, the chains may drag a bit under the stopped wheel, but there will still be the possibility of a lot of slide. Hopefully that steep drive has some safe places to slide into (chains will help you get back out). Ice is good for sliding and skating, but no fun on driveway.

Tractor Roll Over
Tractor Projects
Replies 27 Post by kay

Rob Wheeler. Thanks for your input and table. I cleaned it up a bit to look at, and if the SAE standard sizes were common in 32's, they would certainly cover several more metric sizes (I stayed within 0.01" to assume they were usable, but that depends on the bolt or nut tolerance, which I didn't check out).

Lug nut size on JD 4100 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 15 Post by kay

That shouldn't hurt the deck or the tractor. Maybe you will experience some plugging if you try to mow the grass/weeds too short, or try to go too fast. Mow as high as possible and plan to make a couple of passes if you want it neat. As long as the engine rpm doesn't drop (you will hear it lugging), then you should be fine. If the deck doesn't clean, shut off the PTO, let it come to a stop, move to a mowed spot, and turn the PTO back on. Often the slug will up-chuck itself and you can go back to mowing. Clean out under the deck so the mowed grass flows to the discharge chute. Also, mow when the grass/weeds are dry. Keep the blades reasonably sharp and watch for rocks. Take half a mower width on each path if the above doesn't seem to work.

Prepareing fields
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by kay

My guess would be that the dealer isn't the one going to use the tractor. Why go to the trouble of moving the rims to another position when he doesn't know what that position should be. Maybe the user wants it in the narrowest position. Why move them to the widest position if the attachments are not that wide? Why didn't your buddy ask the dealer to move them to the widest position?

rear wheel width
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by kay