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Hi All:<br>
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Having used my new 5101E since the beginning of the year now I thought that some of you might be interested in an update as to how this machine checks out. This model is an updated 5603; the economy version of the 5625, which is now the 5105M. Therefore we know the chassis and drive train are virtually identical to the other 4 cylinder former 5000 series except the engine has been supposedly tweaked up a couple hp.<br>
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First impressions imply that spending the extra 15 or so grand wouldn't be necessary for all those bells and whistles. Maybe not if you're a fairly low hour user like myself. But you don't have to spend much time in the seat before you realize that the ergonomics of this tractor aren't anywhere near what they could have been had Deere injected another $300 into production. A few items of note:<br>
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1. The right console is very inconvenient. The hydraulic and 3ph levers are uncomfortably far back so as to feel unnatural to reach or to leave your arm outstretched when using them frequently. Both knobs touch when passing by each other so you must reposition your hand at times to use them full range.<br>
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2. I prefer to have more leg room. It makes using the brakes less fatiguing; and I'm not overly tall.<br>
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3. I had a service call because the MFWD light didn't work when engaged. He had to take the tractor back to the shop because it was a confusing problem. The light came on when the key was turned to accessories but not when the tractor started or when the MFWD was engaged. Solution? No sensor!!! JD didn't go the extra mile to wire the linkage! There is no MFWD light, even though it's already live wired into the instrument panel.<br>
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4. JD has discontinued the 542 loader. Next in line for this tractor is the 563. Problem? The 563 was built for the 6000 series tractors. It comes with the Global Carrier; nice big bucket and all. But what if you have other JD attachments not compatible with the Global Carrier? You get the 500 carrier. There goes that nice big bucket. Oh well, with the 500 hd bucket the back tires touch the ground at least some of the time.<br>
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Contrary to what I've written, I do like this tractor. No mechanical issues to speak of. It has great power and is very maneuverable, considering its size. Some of the issues I've outlined are common throughout all of the 5 series tractors 65 pto hp and above, such as the light weight. You can't put enough iron on the rear wheels to handle that loader. Fluid in the tires is a MUST (unless you can leave a weight on your 3ph continually). My peeve is that a few hundred dollars would have made a world of difference in the "little things" department. I suppose it would also make a world of difference on how many 5xxxM's will sell too if the economy models are TOO nice.<br>
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By the way, I have emailed these comments directly to JD to give them some real world feedback. Thanks for reading such a long post.

2009 John Deere 5101E Product Review
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Lwayne

SS: There isn't anything except calcium chloride available locally. I asked about Rim Guard but they all said nobody wants to spring for the seperate pump, tanks, etc. I just traded, so get to go through it all over again. Others have suggested anti freeze products but i'm going the c.c. route and be done with it.

John Deere Tractor Ballast Advice
John Deere Tractors
Replies 38 Post by Lwayne

I stopped in at my dealer last week to ask my salesman what the holdup is in getting the bucket for my new 5101E. Of course, I had to walk back to the shop to take another look-see. I happened to notice that the tool box had been mounted (on the right side of the loader) since I was in last. All I've seen are on the left side so I wanted a better look. Now, this bracket is bolted onto the loader with the toolbox offset either to the left or the right. In this particular case the toolbox was offset to the left; COMPLETELY BLOCKING THE RIGHT CAB DOOR! Is this a case of too much eggnog? My salesman was rightfully as stupified as I was. So I'm wondering. How many of you have similar tales to tell?

What s the dumbest thing your dealer s ever done
John Deere Tractors
Replies 15 Post by Lwayne

If it's in that good of shape $350 would be a steal. You can't even buy a walk-behind for that!

Kubota rear snow blower prices
Kubota Tractors
Replies 24 Post by Lwayne

Just as a follow up; my original post/reply concerning the hydraulic powered loader mounted blower (as used on skid steer loaders) was taking into consideration the original post implying frequent and heavy snowfall. At $6500+ it certainly isn't for everyone. But I think it's also worthwhile to point out here that a lot of people buy rear 3ph blowers not recognizing the need to size it correctly to their tractor. Most of the posts ask - do I need 60" or 72", etc. without recognizing how much increased pto shaft angle, for example, exponentially robs tractor power. The original post is unclear whether it's a cat. I or II hitch, but that also enters into it. I'm not saying anything most of you don't already know except IMHO 1,000 people have 1,000 different circumstances to deal with.

Grand L vs M
Kubota Tractors
Replies 23 Post by Lwayne

Guys: I suppose such things happen but up to now I have been pulling pretty much all the gravel a 7' box blade will carry with no problems. Last week the city was digging in some water lines and partially unearthed a piece of old concrete sewer (about 16" x 4' filled with mud) I didn't see that literally stopped me in my tracks.
Thankfully, no ill effects. That 4720 (with Loadmatch) has great strength for its size but I still need 30 more hp and 3,000 more pounds to handle a semi tractor in a worst case scenario.

Trade John Deere 4720 on 5603
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Lwayne

Kangaroo31: I'm interested to know if you were ever able to get to the bottom of your drainage issues. It might be a good time to dig up that wet ground before the frost comes completely out of the ground to prevent sinking too deep and possibly getting stuck.

Small farm tractor attachment questions
Operating and Attachments
Replies 36 Post by Lwayne

Hardwood: Unless we get a bad blizzard, which seemingly doesn't happen much anymore, I don't like the blower. I have the box blade mounted 98% of the time. The blower is too bulky in tight quarters. Unless you have open space you end up blowing snow and rocks all over cars, trucks, buildings, etc. Granted, in two or three feet of snow it's the cat's meow. Then you have to move all of those vehicles anyway to clean properly. As for the bucket, I use it more in the summer. Of course many people use them to push snow, but they're not as handy as a plow for my purposes. I can "reach in" with the plow because it sits well ahead of the loader (low clearance) and pull back. Then there's the angling ability, which allows end to end plowing without windrows. When I first got it several people asked me the same question, but those who've seen it in action seem to agree it has a definite upside. Incidentally, I didn't notice the picture of NorthernMainers outfit until after my reply to him. If you're reading, NM, how does your plow work on the JD?

LW

New 7 Frontier Blade
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Lwayne

Have you guys ever noticed what New Holland uses (or used to use) on their bi-directional tractor? If I'm reading it right, VT tires. They are very similar to huge R3's. It makes sense as I seem to be backing under power as much as going forward (snow blower, box scraper, pulling snow away from buildings with the loader). Just checked their web site and it looks like the pictures have R1's again.

R3s in the Snow
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 4 Post by Lwayne

Just curious, how do the R3's work with winter FEL work ... or any winter work for that matter? I've never used anything except R1's. I've also heard that R4's aren't much for using in the mud; don't know. I suppose it boils down to how deep the snow is, etc. Titan's long bar/medium bar R1's are really aggressive, but at slow speed like riding on a lumber wagon.

Snowblower or Loader for todays Storm
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 28 Post by Lwayne

qball: I don't think it's worth the effort to find where you can buy the dyed fuel (with higher sulpher) as it is seemingly becoming a thing of the past anyway. Personally, I think mine runs better with the additive. Maybe they've already lowered the sulpher in the dyed as well. As for your second question, it seems that similar models can vary widely. That could have something to do with varying work conditions but my 4720 has never had a problem with overheating on hot days no matter how hard it's working. The needle generally sets a little to the right of the middle. Incidentally, the cab heat and air on these things is incredible. It got down to -24 degrees last night and I spent a couple hours this morning moving a snow pile. I was fluctuating the heater between Low and Off when wearing just a light jacket.

Newbie advice between JD2305 BX2305 and GC2300
John Deere Tractors
Replies 25 Post by Lwayne

I'm presuming you have a some sort of semi-permanent attached blade. If I was you I'd just have a local machine shop bend a set of irons in any configuration that fits your needs and use thumb screws in threaded holes (or welded nuts) following Joel's suggestion. If you're talking light duty, as long as you don't overload it, something like that would be as simple as it gets.

BLADE FORKS
Tractor Projects
Replies 9 Post by Lwayne

Clarification: My previous post stated that the Buhler and Farm King are sisters. I should have said the Allied and Farm King are sisters. They are both Buhlers. Note the difference in weight, though, between the 60" (450#) and the 74" (710#). 260#, or 58% more. Quite a difference for only 5" in height and 14" in length!

3pt Snowblower Brands
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 48 Post by Lwayne

Joel: You know the place. Just look for the white tractors. If you're not paying attention they blend in pretty well. With name branding like Bobcat it should be quite a boost to Kioti.

Bobcat CUTs
Articulated Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Lwayne

doc: Your head must be swimming. There's certainly no shortage of advice on this one. I may as well add another 2 cents worth. Some, if not most of this discussion is about what's the best method to excavate/level the grade around your house. Tillers work great for some things, box blades work great for others. As I mentioned in a previous post, anything attached rigidly to your 3 ph is going to make it a challenge to level very perfectly. But if the soil is loose, using whatever implement, here's a little trick to consider. I also mentioned earlier that a steel beam or timber can be good for leveling but I didn't completely explain myself. You can incorporate using this simple attachment and your 3 ph, which gives you the best of both worlds; a scraper and a leveler. Here's how it works. After you've loosened your soil, hitch a beam on a "correctly lengthened" chain to your 3ph. I have a quicktach, making it easy using the top link connection. The idea is, if the chain is the right length, then when you have the 3 ph down it will gather up soil, etc. and when you drive over a low spot you raise the 3 ph (the chain being just long enough to allow the front of the beam to raise) allowing your load to disperse evenly. Obviously, the longer the beam the better the results. This method allows you use the 3ph as well as solving the rigidity problem. Warning! When pulling something with a cable or chain be sure the connections are solid because if it lets loose at the implement end you don't want a rubber band effect causing a chain to spring back towards you. Have fun.<br>
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Newbie needs help - box blade or tiller
Operating and Attachments
Replies 83 Post by Lwayne

Lakehouse: I'm jumping in here pretty late in the game but just happened upon your post. I would EMPHATICALLY agree with the guys recommending a heavier duty loader. That is the one thing that jumps out at you right away when you start using it. What you pay extra now you'll get back many times over in productivity and less down-time. I also agree that, unless you already have an established relationship with someone you trust, the mainstream dealers are in a better position to take care of you down the road. That might not be true in all cases, but there are a lot of players out there right now muddying the water and it's really hard to sort out who's going to be around ten years from now. Just one man's opinion.

Need help from all you PROs
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 41 Post by Lwayne

Question: When adjusting the tension of the springs on a snow plow where do you measure to meet the specs? My manual says 15" from the inside of the hook on one end to the inside of the hook on the other end. Does that mean from the inside of the rounded part that goes through the loop or does it mean where the hook actually comes to an end? The former doesn't seem right as the thickness of the spring itself isn't that great so why not just say outside to outside? But some disagree with me. To use the latter would make a 2 1/2" inch difference. I could contact the manufacturer but I've done that on different occasions and they just say to contact my dealer. The dealer is the one who installed it (measuring to the inside of the loops) so I already know their opinion. Any ideas would be appreciated.

snow plow tension springs
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Lwayne

Joel: Sorry about the late response. I was gone over the weekend. Yes, like they say, it's a small world. '97 was the only year that I ever bought flood insurance. The snowfall was rediculous! We evacuated our house two months to the day from that purchase. We came home to 5' of water in our basement and felt LUCKY, considering what a lot of people came home to. We live two and a half miles from the river. Still the water came as far as our front basement windows; but not a drop in the garage or the back yard! How lucky can you get? :(

4x20 cab mirrors
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Lwayne

earthworks: I agree with your logic. Gravel can be slick. My original post was misleading in that regard. That being understood, the point I'm trying to make is if the manufaturer put rear tires on a MFWD tractor the same size as on an identical 2wd tractor the word "assist" would mean what it's supposed to. The FWA would come into play under abnormal conditions, such as ice, mud, heavy load, etc. Otherwise you're integrating the FWA into everyday operation, which is not proper design imho.

Tire Wear
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Lwayne

Murf: NIMBY is a prevalent frame of mind for certain. But with the poor farm econmy a lot of farmers are looking for outside sources of income. Many of them would like to receive a rent check regularly for something like that just sitting in their field or pasture. My neighbor retired from an electric utility and tells me the real problem with them up to now is they have to over-saturate in the building phase to accomodate for the unstable nature of wind to produce a reliable amount of energy.

Windmills for electricity
Home Improvement
Replies 48 Post by Lwayne