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Just a note of thanks to the kind folks here. Your willingness to share opinions/experiences/thoughts and to answer seemingly endless questions definitely made this purchase much easier. You folks provided me with more than enough knowledge to make a smart buying decision. Thank you!<br>
<br>
Here's my new "toy":<br>
<br>
L3000DT<br>
LA452S FEL<br>
Land Pride RCR1660 Rotary Cutter<br>
Land Pride RTR1560 Scraper Blade (friend has box scraper)<br>
Tooth bar for FEL<br>
<br>
I'm looking forward to many years of service from these things. Again, many thanks.

Thanks for helping a newbie New tractor to arrive next week
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by VA_Phil

Go with sand. You won't regret it. Dry it's good, wet it's better and you can easily dump it - you want to at the end of season so your box doesn't rust out. Of course a good older back blade works pretty well too - older means heavier. But go with sand.

ballast box
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by benfranklin

I agree. There's no downside to buying a Deere from a reputable dealer. The Deere dealers around here have been in business a long time and their mechanics are not only well trained they seem happy - again a sign of a good dealer. Having had other tractors I can't emphasize enough the value in the dealer and mechanic beyond the color of the machine. You can't beat those three for importance. The cost of fixing these machines plus the down time is not worth saving a grand on an off brand machine.

Considering the 790
John Deere Tractors
Replies 20 Post by benfranklin

I have a JD 650 which is a Yanmar. Manual states half throttle for summer, full throttle for winter. Return throttle to 1500 rpm after starting and allow to warm up for approx. 5 min.

Starting procedure
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 6 Post by beetle

Hey Bruce, Thanks for the reply. I'm having second thoughts, sure looks nice for a seventies model. I'm hoping to find something around 30 hp in that price range. Any suggestions as to what models to look for?<br>
<br>
Thanks again

yanmar 2700
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 3 Post by dobiek

I am planning on putting up a additional barn on my mini-farm. Here is my problem: The wife insists on a "old style" which translates to post and beam construction and not pole barn/truss construction. Does anyone know where I can obtain plans that recreate the old time post and beam barns? I know there are old frames that are blueprinted out there for purchase, however, they are BIG $$. There are old barns out there for teardown, but that means double the labor to teardown and put back up.I have located a good supply of old beams that have already been knocked down and I plan on using new rough cut lumber for the siding, all I need are plans.

Help if you can.

Post and beam barn plans
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 8 Post by beetle

i am looking at a yanmar 2202d, the gauges don't work, i was told it was 83 model, i am a first time buyer, what should i look for?

yanmar 2202d
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 4 Post by dennisray

I am new to this board and tractors. I am close to buying a Kubota and need some input. Last year I was convinced the B2710 was the way to go. However this year’s appearance of the new B7800 has changed my mind. Now I think the choice is between the 7800 and the 2910.<br>
<br>
The price difference between the B7800 and the B2910 is $1100. I your opinion(s) is it worth spending the extra money for the bells and whistles on the 2910?<br>
<br>
The quotes for both machines include: LA402 loader, R4 tires (loaded) and folding ROP. <br>

B2910 or B7800 which to buy
Kubota Tractors
Replies 3 Post by flyboy

the 2000 B21 with loader and backhoe at $18750 plus the shipping whatever it is would save you $5000 plus its a newer tractor than the one in AZ and only 201 hours it didnt sound that baad to me in comparison

B-21 Sticker Shock
Kubota Tractors
Replies 19 Post by lapine

A french drain is the type of system that I used with perforated drain pipe and a gravel field around the pipe. This was placed on the uphill side of my house and diverted water away from the house on both sides. The low side did not need a drain as the slope would lead water away from the foundation anyway.

I agree with what you describe about installing the basement floor, but most of us get what we get. I bought a used house and was never there during the construction or planning. Codes required a vapor barrier under the slab, but if it had been put in correctly, then I should not have had moisture/sulfate problems in the first place. The problem area was localized in my case to two small sites. I suspect that there was a hole in the barrier at each location. That is hard to fix, and my experience with any paint-on solution was not good.

I am sure that the drainage around the foundation was the problem in my particular case. I had three inches of standing water on the uphill side of the house during a severe rain. It was almost coming over the door thresholds. This was not a problem when the house was constructed, but landscaping routed and held water next to the house and that was a big mistake leading to all of the other problems.

It is possible that my former problem is more severe than the original question posed in this thread. Chris, you should probably have a flooring contractor come by and look at your floor. If you have wetness, you will have to do some work. If it is just humid in the basement, paint-on systems may work fine. If you were planning a DIY project, then perhaps the place supplying the flooring can give you some advice. I am not sure what you were planning, but the modular system mentioned by Peters may be a very good solution for you. The closed cell PE foam used with the flooring systems should do a good job of blocking water vapor. If moisture is common in your area, then the suppliers probably know what works around there. If your neighbors have dry basements, then you may need to concentrate on drainage first.

basement floor
Home Improvement
Replies 14 Post by AC5ZO

I agree with Murf. Doing the job in November puts a different light on the project. I also suggested casting sections on the banks and then moving them where you want them. If it gets cold where you are, I would cast the slabs during warmer weather and then you can set or push them at any convenient time. This will also allow you to let the slabs fully cure for a month before doing anything with them. You need to cover/insulate concrete that is curing in freezing temperatures.

Placing sandbags and working in waist deep water during that time of year where I live would be miserable. Any temporary dam that you make with sandbags will not be completely watertight. You will need a pretty big pump to keep the area dry and freezing might make that even more difficult.

Boat Launch Ramp
Tractor Projects
Replies 9 Post by AC5ZO

We bought it a long time ago for a mower project that never panned out. We bought it from a guy who bought it new as a crate motor to put in a car because he thought it would get great mileage. Turns out it couldn't get out of it's own way and he abandoned the project. Now I'm hoping it's my ticket to get into an affordable tractor.

Looking for tractor with bad engine
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by schragsj

I signed dealer agreement and I abide by it. I do the work. No problem. The ONLY point I'm trying to make to everyone is at least give the local guy a chance! And be sure to weigh all benefits. You gave them a chance and you weren't satisfied, I don't blame you.
You ask what I would do as a consumer. I shop as local as possible and don't dicker like I used to. We've begun to search out other family owned/local businesses when we do our shopping. I also now expect alot better customer service than I used too! I give it so I expect it, simple as that. In this day and age customer service is rather lacking. Believe me I don't agree with what your dealer did and I respect you for not blasting them all over the net. As you said in this age of internet buying and selling things are changing.
KO

Parts and Service
Kioti Tractors
Replies 43 Post by kiohio

That sounds like a very good result. Certainly better than my thought of a dumb quick and dirty fix when I started reading the comment. I thought, maybe just putting a different knob on the dipper control valve lever would help keep them straight.

I don't know why the relief valve didn't protect the cylinder. I guess that implies that the circuit needs a relief pressure that's lower than the tractor's system relief pressure as well. the only thought I have about the newly stacked valves is that if the dipper control valve originally was the last in the series, there's a possibility that the power passage doesn't go through the valve. If such a valve was put in the middle of the stack, the later valves wouldn't have the simultaneous but lightest load moves first feature that's fairly common. That would be a pretty small issue for me and I might not notice whether I have the feature or not.

JD 48 Dipper cylinder
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 35 Post by TomG

Try this web site. Based on the info there he is asking almost new prices.

With 170 hours of homeowners use I am guessing the warranty has expired. He needs to come down or you can add a few hundred and get a warranty and zero percent interest.

BX2200 - What is a good deal
Kubota Tractors
Replies 3 Post by DRankin

Yes, I guess I did forget that it only happens in the cold and then the tractor returns to normal. I wonder if the tractor(s) are stored inside or out and whether they're left with the parking brakes set or not? I also wonder whether the oil appears milky or whether the problem is more prevalent if the tractors are operated in wet conditions or after a wet fall?

frozen rear wheel
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by TomG

I understand what you mean Tom. At our cottage near Apsley we had a pit toilet for years. We were never there that much, weekends and maybe one or two weeks per year and therefore with a little lime served well for 45 years.
We were finally required to install a new system which assumes some one is there full time. This costs a lot as it need to be pumped away up the steep slope away from the cottage.

D I Y septic system
Home Improvement
Replies 36 Post by Peters

When I first got my used tractor the loader used to jerk a lot when I tried to lower heavy loads slowly. Turned out that it was a lubrication problem. The problem disappeared after I replaced 90-degree fittings with 45-degree ones so I could get a standard gun on them and greased them a few times. It still bounces if I lower heavy loads too fast but I believe that's normal.

There really aren't any grease fittings on my 3ph that might cause a similar problem. However, bent or poorly lubricated linkage arms or ball ends might bind the load. Binding also might be possible if the lower link arm mounts on an implement were very wide or very narrow for the tractor. I wonder if the same problem happens with a different implement that weighs about the same as the mower.

jerky lift
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by TomG

Any B1700 owners who could give their thoughts about the tractor would be greatly appreciated!!

Kubota B1700
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by qbc300

Dealer has a 1999 Kubota B1700, mint condition with 54 hours, mmm and Kubota grass catcher. Is $9,500 a reasonable price? Also if you have one, can you give your thoughts about the B1700.

B1700
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by qbc300