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Search for = JParker

Topic

Thanks for all the input. I pretty well stayed in the recommendations. King Kutter's 48" Gear Drive tiller from TSC. Price just under $1000 + tax, + oil + + + +

It has a built in 12" offset to the right to cover tracks of a 5 tractor nicely.

It turned my clay & rock soil into a nice soft almost powder consistiency very easily. It even turned a big rock into a bunch of smaller ones before I could stop it. When I looked for damage, I barely could find a nick in a tooth. What a machine.

Implement Wt Limitation vs 3ph Max Lift Weight
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by JParker

I found the Northern Tool link to the "Quick Hitch"
Item# 12610

pasture mower for B7800
Operating and Attachments
Replies 14 Post by JParker

I found it. Northern Tool Item # 12610

2710 vs 2910
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by JParker

I haven't learned all the hydraulic terminology yet, but would love to have rear hydraulics for a top link on my B7800. Would what was previously described require removal of my FEL with 4-in-1 bucket? A sketch would be great. If it can't be linked as a photo, please feel free to e-mail.

tractor capable of running trencher
Kubota Tractors
Replies 16 Post by JParker

I hate to admit this, but in the interest of fixing a problem...

Have you checked the parking brake. In medium or low range if I forget to check, I may not even realize its on. In high range its quite a different story.

My B7800 does fine at almost any engine speed above idle and anywhere on the pedal with loaded tires, front end loader and 5' bush hog on highway or across field.

Still sounds like something wrong to me as well.

- JP

KUBOTA HYDRO RANGE
Kubota Tractors
Replies 20 Post by JParker

I see from your profile you ended up with the King Kutter.

I have the same tractor and was wondering how you like the combo?

Tiller
Kubota Tractors
Replies 9 Post by JParker

I have been lifting some pretty heavy logs with an Orange B7800 w/4-in-1 & loaded rear tires, but no other ballast. I had considered adding a weight box or other impliment for extra lift, but now am re-thinking the extra ballast idea.<br>
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On attempts to pull stumps, I sometimes lift the rear and sometimes the relief valve stops me. That makes me think the valve is set to relieve at about the same lifting force that the tractor's own weight X wheel base will counteract.<br>
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The local dealer set up the package with a Long 4-in-1. He even suggested a weight box to enhance lift capacity. I just hadn't gotten around to it yet. <br>
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Getting slowly lifted in the air seems to be a good reminder to cut the trees into smaller pieces, and keep the seat belt on.<br>

New Holland TC33D Tractor Frame broke in Half
New Holland Tractors
Replies 241 Post by JParker

From this thread and a few others, it appears that a good, heavy landscape rake can do much the same thing as a rear blade, but leaves a better finish for gravel, sand... Am I on the right track?

I was thinking about getting one for clearing sticks and branches out of pasture grass and small rocks (6-10"), out of what will eventually become a yard. Presently just weeds, vines and a little grass. Basically anything to prevent errosion for now.

I don't really want to tear up the pasture a lot, just clean up the branches... before shreading the smaller ones with the bush hog.

I don't really want to tear up the future yard too much either because it started having some errosion problems after it was first cleared. Eventually we will regrade and replant, but the more rocks I remove now the less to deal with later. When the septic went in, they found a lot of rocks that are now half burried all over the place.

Is this the correct impliment or should I be thinking about something else for spring cleanup?

Anyone familiar with Landpride rake
Operating and Attachments
Replies 14 Post by JParker

Ok, I didn't know that there were special gauges for fluid filled tires, so that was good new info. I'll have to look for one just for good measure, but I still like the idea of measuring just the air at the top.

2.31 feet of water = 1 psi. Calcium would be more dense, so it would exaggerate the effect. If you know the approximate height of water in the tire, why not just add the difference? For the 4 ft high tire example, 4/2.3 = 1.7 psi.

Is 1.7 psi going to make that much difference? My old stick type gauge isn't that accurate.

The Service manual calls for 20 psi in rear tires, so we are talking about around 10% variance. The Orange service manual for 7800, 2410, 2710, 2910 doesn't say anything about stem position that I have found.

Just my $0.02

Which way is up
Parts and Repair
Replies 10 Post by JParker

Check into local drilling prices for a vertical closed loop system. That's all we do commercially. You're right, I don't think in areas with a deep frost line that you can get a horizontal down deep enough to really be worthwhile unless you put in a lot of pipe.

Still it's more efficient to pull heat out of 35 degree water than 5 degree air.

- JP

Geothermal heating cooling
Home Improvement
Replies 27 Post by JParker

I can't seem to find the threads from back in the fall when I was pricing tractors, but I decided I wanted a 5 ft rough cut mower and/or a 6 ft finish mower (3pt or belly). That pushed me up to a 30 hp tractor. Now that I have the tractor, the manual recommends slightly a smaller rough cut mower, but the dealer seems to think the 5' should work if I stick to light duty model and leave the trees to the chain saw.

Good Luck,

- JP

HELP No clue what to get
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by JParker

Does anyone know if the tire foam is available for DIY?<br>
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I've got a number of small tires that have lost the battle with Locus thorns and don't think they would be that bad with foam. Hand Truck, Generator cart, 150# broadcast seeder, DR field & brush mower, Garden Tractor...<br>
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I'm also having problems with the front R4's tires on my new B7800. I can't believe the Locus thorns made it through them, but I seem to have developed 2 slow leaks up front. When the weather warms, I'll do a good wash & soapy water job on them to locate the leaks and see if I can determine the source. It looks like I may need to get good at plugging tires or go with foam or lots of "Fit a Flat". <br>
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Any other input I should know about?<br>
<br>
Thanks, JParker<br>
<br>
P.S. Edit - I just finished reading SLOW LEAK and TIRE SEALANT threads later in this forum, so I have seen the well made points about plugging, Fix a Flat & Slime. I guess there are very few new questions out there. This board has already covered most of it.<br>
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What I didn't see is any info about Do It Yourself foam installation. Any help there? Is the other option the traveling tire repair guys? I'd hate to haul the tractor tires and all the little toys to a tire dealer.

foam filling
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by JParker

Yes, Definitely with the tire jacked up to take off the weight. Glad you said that since I forgot to.

- JP

Oops overinflated rear water filled tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by JParker

Thanks.

Thats about what the dealer said, but I just wanted to be sure that wasn't sales talk.

Combo work lights headlights safety light
Tractor Projects
Replies 8 Post by JParker

For most things like this, just try a Google.com search.<br>
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That said, the google search made me run through another tractor site, but eventualy took me to the link below.<br>
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It looks interesting, but I wonder if it still will have the same problems as most of these quick hook up ideas, i.e the few inches of extra length. <br>
<br>
Will standard top links and PTO shafts still be the correct length, or are new ones required?<br>
<br>
I don't know, but it looks like a potential problem, even if it is only a one time issue.<br>
<br>
Also, I would think the "optional" stabilizer bar is a must. Otherwise, what keeps the bottom links from spreading out and dropping the impliment? I know some impliments have pins that are attached on both ends, but many are not.<br>
<br>
- JP

3 pt Quick Connect
Operating and Attachments
Replies 22 Post by JParker

New Posts (click to View) is a nice quickie window to see what is going on, but have you tried the blue "New as Posted" just below Jump to Forum and above "Tarheel Tractors" current ad.

That is how I scan current traffic, and it seems to take me to the latest message of the thread. Sometimes I have to back up a page of so if its a long one and I haven't been online for a while. But I think this works about like you sounded like you want.

- JP

New Posts click to View
Website Operations Howto
Replies 6 Post by JParker

Glad to hear the Murf pipe idea works so well.

Hopefully this spring I will have a new gravel drive to keep under control as well. I guess I'll be trying my hand at making one too.

On the loosening issue, is it possible the snow is working those handles a little? While filling, the handles would seem to try turning with long end to back of bucket. When dumping, the long end may follow the snow out of the bucket. You would hope that would only be a 1/2 turn in then back out on each cycle, but according to the other Murf's law, you know what probably happens.

I wonder if there is an easy way to lock your handles to each other of something else?

jm2cw

- JP

plowing snow with FEL
Kubota Tractors
Replies 54 Post by JParker

I assume that is what Dennis meant by "Image Code", and I guess that it's because it could really chew up some space on his system as well as slow it down, but it looks good. How the heck did you do that? Feel free to reply via e-mail.

Let it snow let it snow
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 30 Post by JParker

I don't have a PHD yet, but a friend helped me set a 6x6 about 5' into the ground about 2 years ago during the drought. Very hard, dry clay most of the way down.

He had a 3ph mounted digger on a 20hp Deere CUT.

We needed more down pressure most of the hole. His trick was to use a "Digging Pole" wedged into the top of the PHD. I think it was above the gear box. As I remember it, the "Digging Pole" was a 6' steel pole with what looks like a splitting wedge on one end and a large head for striking on the other end. Used for cutting roots...

That let us put a little leverage on the rig to keep it cutting, but kept us about 4' away from the auger.

It went kind of slowly, but I think we had the hole dug in about 30 minutes. Compared to hand digging, there was no contest. The tractor won hands down.

There seemed to be a space just the size of the wedge on his PHD. The pole just stayed there like it was made for it, even when we weren't holding it. Maybe he welded a pocked in for it himself? Don't know.

Just stay back and respect that auger. I just saw a show on PAX TV about a farmer & wife. She was on tractor, he was "working" the auger. He lost an arm, and almost his life.

- JParker

Post Hole Digger Ineffective
Kubota Tractors
Replies 24 Post by JParker

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to print this out and study for a while.

It looks like I should go ahead and buy the box blade and give it a try. If I don't seem to be making enough progress, I guess it's time to call a dozer back in.

I'll see if I can get enough adjustment out of the 3 point to handle the leveling, I was just was hoping for a solution that could be adjusted on the fly.

Stone Driveways
Garden and Landscape
Replies 32 Post by JParker