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I agree with Chief. Kroil works well.

Drilling will help and the EZout is probably the way to go. I like the EZ out style that has straight teeth that you drive into the hole. Some of these look like square punches and some look like straight knurled hardened shafts that drive into the hole and form teeth at the same time. In addition, I might recommend using a countersinking cutter to countersink into the hole on the wheel and it will cut out the remainin part of the flare and leave the countersunk hole in the wheel/rim. (Countersinks are available in a variety of sizes and angles, so you should match to your situation.) It is important to get the hole right down the center of the wheel bolt remnant.

If you can do it, you will probably find that this process is easier with the wheel and hub/(disk/drum) removed from the axle together. I would also make use of heat through the drilled hole if the hub was removed from the axle.

The bolt is probably corroded in place and the Kroil or other penetrating oil will help break up the rust. The heat from a torch will cause differential expansion of the metal and tend to break these bonds also. If it is cross threaded or otherwise bound in position, it will be a more difficult removal task.

VW Lug Bolt Broken
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 18 Post by AC5ZO

The additives in the newer antifreeze are different. It is still basically ethylene glycol, but I don't mix it with the older stuff with the different additive concentrations. It is not that much more expensive and it is not worth saving a couple of bucks on this. <br>
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As to using distilled water...I would not recommend it. It is important to use clean water and water that does not contain extremely high concentrations of calcium and magnesium (hard water minerals) because those minerals tend to separate out and form a mineral layer when the water is heated. <br>
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Distilled, RO, and deionized water all are more pure forms of water. As you remove the solids that are disolved in the water, it effectively becomes more corrosive. The best way that I can describe it is that the water attempts to achieve a balance with its environment. If the environment is in limestone caverns, then the water will disolve limestone and become "hard." If you put a pure form of water in an engine block (especially with dissimilar metals) then you will set up a corrosive cell that will disolve some of the metal until an equilibrium situation is reached. (Someone will probably say that pure water is a non-conductor and is non-corrosive, but that is a temporary condition that will reverse itself when pure water is in contact with non-passivated metals.)<br>
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I mentioned on another thread that I used to make solutions for contact lenses and eye care. The heart of that process is the making of extremely pure water, so I speak from experience when I talk about the corrosive properties. Use good clean soft water in your engines and you will be happy and they will last for a long time. If your manufacturer says to use distilled water, then you should do that because they have made provisions to accept it.

Antifreeze Types
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 24 Post by AC5ZO

northern tool sells forks in differnt lengths and load limits.

Fork lift from Front End Loader
Kubota Tractors
Replies 23 Post by plots1

Your unit is equipped with an auto-return type of valve, as most splitters are. The problem is that the valve stays in the return position until the cylinder is fully retracted.

I don't know of many people who burn 24" long firewood, in fact more and more I am seeing that people prefer 12" firewood over 16" long pieces.

In most cases it is a pretty easy adaptation to make the cylinder stop where you want it to.

Best of luck.

Wood Splitter for 4310
John Deere Tractors
Replies 31 Post by Murf

Have any of you looked at these (I guess you would compare to a KK or Howse). I am looking at a 6', slip clutch, no chain guards, 40HP gearbox for $775. A 75HP gearbox adds $150. I will be using a TC45D for mostly light duty, once I get through the rough stuff!

International MFR rotary cutter
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 16 Post by Blueman

I bought a Mitsubishi 32 horse 4x4 tractor. Love it !!!!!!!!!!!<br>
I drive around 2 wheel drives on hunt club to pull them out.<br>
I have 4 PTO speeds and I do not know which one is the 540 speed for a king kutter tiller.<br>
<br>
HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PTO speed
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by DonBurrell

I have a 1997 JD 870, 4WD, dual PTO, turf tires, with JD 72 inch underbelly mower and 240 hrs., always garaged. I'm moving and will need to sell. Any ideas on what it is worth?

1997 John Deere 870
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by RES3

Jim,

I'm looking to purchse the Valby CH140 to chip a great amount of dry wood (2"-3" branches). You mentioned that chipping green wood versus old dry wood affects the performance significantly. In what way is the performance affected?
Thanks.

PTO woodchippers again
Operating and Attachments
Replies 43 Post by kwoetzel

If the pressure releif valve is stuck open it will not squawk, it will just hiss. The noise is caused by the valve rapidly opening and closing, if it is stuck it will just run past. If it is a small leak then there would be enough restriction from the thick oil to give enough pressure to make the 3pth lift.

You don't mention if the loader is affected or just the 3pth.

Best of luck.

3 pt hitch
Kubota Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Murf

Bliz, sorry I completely missed your question to me in the early part of this thread. I think the 'Murphy Pipe would probably help in your case.<br>
<br>
The design of those blower bodies are meant to cleam snow right down to a HARD surface. Unfortunately gravel is another story. The sides actually doi a lot to bringing up gravel too. As the knife edge of the side pushes through the gravel a certain amount of it is raised up, like waves behind a boat. Although it is tough not to cause some disturbance until it's frozen solid, I would try to put a pipe all the way around the bottom, sides included.<br>
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I have seen a lot of blowers with angle iron welded along the sides to help keep them on the surface, but then in turning they skid a pull up even more material.<br>
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The big thing is to keep a thin layer of hard snow over the gravel to lock it down out of the way.<br>
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Best of luck.

Let it Snow
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 28 Post by Murf

My dealer welded 3 hooks across the top of my bucket for me for $150 -- you can see them in my picture #3....

Seriously Considering a 4310
John Deere Tractors
Replies 67 Post by sshuma

OK, now this is getting ridiculous.

I'll bet Dennis could easily tell us if "Marty" and "Lenarguy" are one and the same, but it sure seems like more than a fluke that these 'two' guys are located in each others backyards.

Seems like an attempt to get around the SPAM rules.

need help with lenar questions
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by Murf

Unless he was putting a 3pt. backhoe on. Yes you will have to remove the mower and all of the brackets. And let me tell you what a pain in the ___ is it to do that! You might want to see what kind of backhoe your dealer wants to put on it. Kioti does not warrenty a machine with a 3pt. on them.

ck20 price check
Kioti Tractors
Replies 8 Post by wallac

The front drives in most 4wd tractors lead the rear drives by 5% travel or more. In tight turns even this lead isn't sufficient but more lead would place greater stress on the front drive when not in a turn. There's really no good solution except for a differential in the front drive shaft. Not only does the tire slip in turns but the 4wd in effect also quits. Carrying weight on the 3ph may lessen lawn damage but it also would make back-flips more likely when going up hills.

Sounds like you're doing the work without going off the grass. It's good to keep in mind that using 4wd on high traction surfaces adds to wear and tear--especially with heavy weight in a loader. Front tires have to do a fair bit of slipping whether in tight turns on the straight. Greater traction places greater stress on the drive train.

2210 Steer Ratios
John Deere Tractors
Replies 21 Post by TomG

On many systems a filter would catch metal shavings before they entered the pump but it'd still be good to clean things out. I wonder where the metal came from? I'm not sure what 'polishing' means but generally abrasives are avoided spooling valves. Spools are lapped into the bodies to create small clearances.

I don't think these hitches have position control and I don't know if they have a poppet valve for lowering like a PC hitch. In a PC hitch, about the only things between the lift cylinder and the reservoir are the flow control and popper valves--well and some passages that could be obstructed.

If it uses a poppet for lowering it might be stuck as was the lift valve. On a PC hitch another possibility is the linkage and 3ph adjustment. With minor disassembly to my PC hitch, I can see the ends of both the lift spool and poppet valve. I should be able to depress then by hand and I can see if the poppet is depressed when the quadrant lever is in lower position. Your hitch likely is a bit different but I hope this bumphf helps thinking about what might be wrong.

B7100 Control Valve - 3 pt Problem
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by TomG

Interesting that the Poster hasn't responded?

need some advice on a B7500
Kubota Tractors
Replies 9 Post by grinder

Let me know if the fronts are 4 x 13 cm.... maybe we can work something out.

MH

Rims and Tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 16 Post by DRankin

If this unit starts in the service mode but not the run mode,the only relay thats failing is the interloc relay,check for 12 volts at the white and blue wire at the relay with the key at the start position,if you here a clicking noise its the relay closing ,but it does,nt neccessarily mean the relay is good,its quik to try another relay from parts,if thats no help start checking seat circuit for continuity at the seat switch then seat belt,ps the relay is in the left side of engine compartment.

JD 7775 Skidloader Help
Antique Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Tech23

I can vouch for the BH90 backhoe (I've got mine on the 4330). Very strong, digs great, and digs to it's rated depth with ease. My soil is very rocky and hard clay, I use a 16" bucket.

My comparison was the 48 backhoe on the deere 4610 - The kubota hoe goes on and off MUCH easier - I really like the attachment system, and it is very solid, yet easy to disconnect.

Anyway, I can't offer much advice on the deere, but I've been very impressed with the BH90 hoe. Lots of clearance too, the subframe is very tucked up in the tractor, a very intergrated unit.

Deere 110 verses Kubota L48
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by HuckMeat

Are you sitting in the seat with the seat belt on? This model has safety switches that won't allow it to start unless you are in the seat with the seat belt on. There should be a light in the display that comes on when you sit in the seat and another one that comes on when you buckle the belt. If these lights don't work, you have a bad safety switch or bad connection somewhere. You posted this message under the backhoe section. Do you have a backhoe on it? There is a switch above your head on the right side. What position is this switch in? Let me know more details and I might be able to help you further.

JD Skidloader 7775
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 3 Post by jdgreen