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If I'm not mistaken, a British company has resurrected the "McCormick" brand name, but I read somewhere they are re-stickered Italian tractors. Different from the new Farmall line.
Bill

Any News About theCNH Farmalls
Antique Tractors
Replies 9 Post by BillMullens

I am pleased with my TG1860. Only problem is that when mowing a sloped area it does not seem to want to pull very well. If I mow this area last it does not seem to want to pull it at all. I have checked hydro fluid and it is full with no froth. Any thoughts?

TG1860
Kubota Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Sball

The forks came from Gearmore but I think were made by Rankin. They would work fine on the 210 loader as long as you keep some extra ballast on the rear end.

I had them on the BX for a while and they would do ok with moderate loads.

Too bad you don't live closer. I have them up for sale.

Another option for your loader would be to check if the bucket is interchangeable with the 410 loader. Rankin/Gearmore has a nifty set-up that mounts right to the quick attach loader arms.

The clamp-on forks retail about $300, the ones that replace the bucket retail about $600

I can get more info for you if you are interested.

JD 2210 vs Kub BX2200 vs MF GC2300
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by DRankin

I think he was talking about Ted Corriher at Corriher implements in NC. Click on the TractorPoint ad for Corriher Implements for more info. The ad says they ship anywhere and it wouldn't hurt to get a price quote from them.

price check tc29 with trade
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by kwschumm

I sure didn't take my rear tires off and they aren't loaded. I think I'd rather take a minor beating than take off loaded rear wheels. I don't really like the idea of me under a vehicle on blocks if it can be avoided. If I did raise it for better ground clearance, I'd want to leave the wheels on if at all possible. Not every owner has a good solid shop floor and decent blocks and chocks for the front wheels to work with.

The downside of doing it on the ground is that my Ford doesn't have enough ground clearance to put a 5-gallon oil bucket under the tractor, and besides more than 5-gallons comes out of most tractors. I bought the largest boxstore drain I could find. It was less than 5-gallons and I had to drain over 8 gallons. That meant I had to put the drain plug back in several times so I could empty the drain into an old 5-gallon pail.

You do need someplace to keep old oil until you empty a bucket of new oil. Most owners end up with several old pails that you probably don't have right now. I found that screwing the fill cap back in slowed the flow enough so putting the drain plug back in wasn't too bad. You also need to make arrangements to dispose of the old oil. Most dealers will it back especially if you bought new oil from them.

Getting the old oil out is one thing, getting new oil back in is another. Trying to balance a 5-gallon pail and pour into a long necked funnel is no picnic and is nearly impossible to do on front-axles. I have a pail pump myself. If you do it yourself, I'd ask the dealer if saving receipts is enough for warranty purposes to document that the service was performed.

50 Hour Service
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by TomG

It's probably a good thing the loader didn't leak down while you were off fixing your hand or you'd likely have much more to say. I believe I would have blocked those axles and used a bottle jack to make small height adjustments. With some luck, a wheel can be leaned against the flange and the flange still can be rotated to get one or more lugs started on top. Then, the axle can be jacked up slightly so the lower part of the wheel will go to the flange. The rest of the lugs line up with little encouragement--probably easier said than done though.<br>
<br>
I'm fairly ouchless right now myself. Last night at fire crew training one of the guys couldn't pull start a fire pump because he got his hand mashed between a 6" limb and a log skidder. One of the hardest things in this buz seems to be keeping track or where our hands and feet are. Feet have it easy but I don't imagine steel fingered gloves would work very well for starting bolt threads.<br>

790 stability
John Deere Tractors
Replies 23 Post by TomG

I purchased a Grand L 4330 with larger loader and bucket for 22,600. Industrial tires,work light and another set of hydraulics.

GRAND L 3830
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by lakeman

I'd get a feeling for tractors and the compact market in your area by letting some local dealers try to sell you a used compact (if they have any to sell). You should get a better feeling for tractors and also better be able to judge an e-bay deal. However, buying a tractor unseen always has an element of risk).

A dealer might actually sell you a tractor and they shouldn't feel bad if they end up not being able to compete with an ebay deal. I personally think my dealer earned what ever I might have saved on a private deal and then some. For most people, wherever they are or whatever they get, they're going to need a dealer, so I'd start out with the dealer I think I'm going to end up with rather than look for one after the fact. You might find a good deal and get much more information about the tractor and a limited warranty in the process. A dealer also might throw in transportation and a deal on implements as an incentive.

770
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by TomG

It's obvious I guess that a loader has to have a valve. However, that valve isn't directly related to the operation of a 3ph implement. I'm guessing that what the dealer meant is that it has to have a power-beyond hookup for both the loader and the 3ph to operate without manually changing a diverter valve. With this setup, the loader or the 3ph will operate but not both at the same time. <br>
<br>
I have a three-spool power-beyond valve myself. The third spool provides a valve controlled rear outlet. Very handy for 3ph implements that have hydraulics and very easy to do with my old style valve that has separate control handles--not so easy to do with valves set up for joystick loader controls.<br>

More 4410 questions
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by TomG

Doesn't sound normal to me. However, it's possible that the break-in oil supplied with a tractor may not have good anti-foaming properties. I assume that factories don't supply the best oil for break-in. Frothy oil usually is associated with hydraulic performance that may start out normal but deteriorates after the tractor runs for awhile. If your hydraulics seem weak, it's not normal.

Frothy oil often results from clogged filters or other suction line problems, and I suppose a filter on a brand new tractor could clog fast. White (milky) often is water in the oil, but my tractor doesn't have a level bubble so I've never seen oil in operation--only on a dip stick or when draining it. I don't know if plain old frothy might also be described as white. Some hydraulic oil has very little colour to it.

It sounds like the tractor may be going to the dealer soon for warranty maintenance. There's a good chance that standard warranty service will cure any suction line problems. I'd sure describe the problem to the service manager.

hyd fluid froth
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by TomG

I knew you guys would have the answer. What a great resource this site is. It is due for the 50 hour service, so I'll have them change out the controller at the same time. The light did flash, but I couldn't detect any pattern, just flash, flash, flash...
Thanks.

JD 4610 ehydro Problem
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by AlbionKen

Buy a tire pressure gauge that is approved for fluid filled tires. I bought mine from a very small auto parts store in a rural area. Then just measure it.

If you have to relieve or add pressure it may be better to put the trans in neutral, jack up the rear of the tractor, and rotate the tire until the valve is at the 12:00 position. If relieving pressure just let the fluid out until air comes out or the pressure measures what you want. When you're done make sure to thoroughly rinse the fluid off the rims or any metal areas. If they are filled with Calcium it is corrosive and can cause rust.

Kubota Grand L3710 tire pressure
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by kwschumm

I don't know what MSRP is but I paid $3200 for my 430 loader. This also include a bucket level indicator, installation, and fluid filling the tires.

MRSP on 430 loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Chief

Very interested in any information on the Korean Ventrac as mentioned in the previous post. Any information, please write me Thank you!

PICTURES OF THE KOREAN VENTRAC
Articulated Tractors
Replies 2 Post by JamesIII

I am not sure exactly what you are talking about. There are a bunch of articulated loaders and a couple of tractors. Below is the URL for one is this what you are thinking of?

Small tractor
Articulated Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Peters

I got a trade value of $4700 for my 4wd 655 with fel and brand new snow plow that cost $1700 new installed and was never used. Oh yeah 350 hrs on machine. I let it go because I couldn't wait to order a new 4310 and the trade sounded pretty good.

JD 655 2WD Diesel w 48 quot deck gentlmn29 aol com
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Johnno

I just finished mowing 40 acre with a l3010/5'landpride mower.Works like a charm,plenty of power.
The only comment I have on the FEL is the breakout power
when digging but I can't imagine 3hp will change that much.
I was in the same position as you and went with the 3010hst
no complaints........go for it.

3130GST vs 3430GST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by moby

They help a certain amount but with a mower that wide on uneven ground; you are going to encounter a certain amout of scalping. I set my mower to cut high at about 4 inches which seems to help the most and I do have the center & side anti-scalp wheels, but even then I scalp once in awhile.

Anti-Scalp Roller
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 7 Post by Chief

I had just a couple of follow-up points...

There is a kind of soil here called colichi. It is a very hard compacted hardpan that is impervious to water and most other things. If you have to dig in that stuff, you have to use picks and hammers or a backhoe. When I was in my 20s and 30s, I would dig this kind of stuff by hand, but not anymore. A backhoe punches right through it. It breaks up into large rocklike sheets and I often use the backhoe bucket to cradle a chunk that may weigh 200 pounds. I think you probably get the picture. So, I use the backhoe for ANY digging.

The NH units are well built, in my opinion. To recap on subframes, they bolt under the tractor and bridge the section between the motor mounts and the drawbar mount. With 3PH mounted hoes, there has been some experience where they were heavily used or abused and they tended to accelerate the wear of the top link mount, and if used with such force as to move the tractor rear end around, they may even cause the tractor frame to break at about the transmission. A subframe bridges any potential or real weakness at the transmission and eliminates the forces on the top link.

On my 758C, the subframe requires the removal of the swinging drawbar, as the subframe mounts to that point. If you use drawbar pulled draft implements like a wheel mounted plow, this may be a problem for you. Most modern implements mount to the 3PH and so this was not a problem for me. For drawbar work, I use a heavy duty CAT 1 drawbar that mounts to the 3PH arms. This works well for me.

As far a buckets are concerned, I use a 12". I like this because I can stand and work in the bottom of any trench that I dig. You might dig faster with a larger bucket, but you also put more load on the hoe. Smaller buckets work, but you might not be able to work in the trench. With a 12" bucket, you just take out about twice as many scoops as you would with a 15"/16" range bucket.

I have easily put in fifty to seventy feet of waterline trench in a day with my 758C in this hard rocky desert soil. I could not do this in a week without a backhoe.

A backhoe is an expensive tool for a homeowner, but so is a tractor. Part of the cost of the backhoe is offset by my comfort in not breaking my back doing this sort of manual labor. I would buy my TC45 and 758C backhoe over again in a second, so I don't regret the decision or expense. When I did not have a tractor or backhoe, I found work-arounds, but those were always slower and required a lot more work.

There is another benefit to owning a backhoe. You can use it when you need it. If you rent a backhoe, you are paying for it when it is in your custody. You may feel rushed to do a job to get the machine back to the owner. If you have your own hoe, it is entirely practical to do a job that may take an hour, but where it would take half a day to go rent a backhoe, do the job and get it back. You can also do what you need to do at your own pace and you can pause if you need to get a special plumbing fitting or other part.

Need Backhoe Recommendation
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 14 Post by AC5ZO

I mis-read the initial post and thought you had condensation on the metal parts. It would made perfect sense that your tires would do what you describe.

Apparently you have a very cool tractor. Bet the boat is jealous.

Odd occurance
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by DRankin